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Trend Pocket Hole Jig (dual column)

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robgul

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Allen Quay

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I have one of these - it's a good basic tool, but for thinner material you have to use shims (not supplied) under the edge of the timber and adjust the drill depth to change the position of the holes to prevent breaking out on the "good side" of the job.

Thanks for the tip @robgul. Just wanted to check if I've understood where you're saying to put the shim. I think I read in a previous post on here that you'd successfully used a ph jig with pallet boards, which is probably something that I'll do as well. So, if I have a pallet board clamped into the jig with the board standing vertically (to make pocket holes at one end of the board), does the shim go on the baseplate of the jig, with the end of the board standing on it, or does it go between the face of the board and the columns of the jig (to increase the overall thickness of the wood that's clamped into the jig?) I'm guessing that it's the latter option and that I'll be drilling through the shim and into the pallet board?
 

robgul

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Thanks for the tip @robgul. Just wanted to check if I've understood where you're saying to put the shim. I think I read in a previous post on here that you'd successfully used a ph jig with pallet boards, which is probably something that I'll do as well. So, if I have a pallet board clamped into the jig with the board standing vertically (to make pocket holes at one end of the board), does the shim go on the baseplate of the jig, with the end of the board standing on it, or does it go between the face of the board and the columns of the jig (to increase the overall thickness of the wood that's clamped into the jig?) I'm guessing that it's the latter option and that I'll be drilling through the shim and into the pallet board?

The shim is on the base of the jig, so the part of the board being drilled sits on it (i.e. lifting the edge up from the base of the jig). I'm probably going to drill some thinnish material later today so I'll take and post a pic if I remember. I keep a couple of shims for different sizes that I keep in the drawer with the jig and drill bits etc.

The other tip - my jig's base is screwed to a board that has a "fin" underneath to be able to clamp the whole jig in the vice and keep everything together on the bench - again, a pic may be posted.

I also have the very basic Kregg jig which has variable depth stops and a drill marked with collar settings - that's OK but a bit fiddly using a separate clamp to attach it to the timber.
 

Allen Quay

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The shim is on the base of the jig, so the part of the board being drilled sits on it (i.e. lifting the edge up from the base of the jig). I'm probably going to drill some thinnish material later today so I'll take and post a pic if I remember. I keep a couple of shims for different sizes that I keep in the drawer with the jig and drill bits etc.

The other tip - my jig's base is screwed to a board that has a "fin" underneath to be able to clamp the whole jig in the vice and keep everything together on the bench - again, a pic may be posted.

I also have the very basic Kregg jig which has variable depth stops and a drill marked with collar settings - that's OK but a bit fiddly using a separate clamp to attach it to the timber.

That's really helpful and any pics would be great (if possible), thank you! I've ordered the jig and I'm planning to mount it to a board so that I can clamp it to my bench when I'm using it. I hadn't realised that the height of the towers aren't adjustable for different thicknesses of boards / panels (as they are on other jigs), so your tip about having shims of different thickness sounds like a really good way of compensating for that.
 

robgul

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That's really helpful and any pics would be great (if possible), thank you! I've ordered the jig and I'm planning to mount it to a board so that I can clamp it to my bench when I'm using it. I hadn't realised that the height of the towers aren't adjustable for different thicknesses of boards / panels (as they are on other jigs), so your tip about having shims of different thickness sounds like a really good way of compensating for that.
Here you go . . . .
trendjig1.jpg
Showing the shim in position

trendjig2.jpg
The baseboard and fin to clamp in the vice. The Allen key for adjusting the width of the two columns is attached to the base board with a magnet - and there's a 12mm spanner (to tighten the compression bolt/cam) on a magnet on the other side of the board.

The concept of the "baseboard and fin" also works for my "portable" bobbin sander and two grinding/polishing machines - they can all be stored away and just clamped to the bench when in use.
 

Allen Quay

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Here you go . . . .
View attachment 124585
Showing the shim in position

View attachment 124586
The baseboard and fin to clamp in the vice. The Allen key for adjusting the width of the two columns is attached to the base board with a magnet - and there's a 12mm spanner (to tighten the compression bolt/cam) on a magnet on the other side of the board.

The concept of the "baseboard and fin" also works for my "portable" bobbin sander and two grinding/polishing machines - they can all be stored away and just clamped to the bench when in use.

Ah great, those pics are really helpful, thanks very much! I'll do some test pieces with boards of different thicknesses so that I can get used to which ones need a shim (and how thick it needs to be). Your baseboard and fin is a great idea and can be used with a few different pieces of equipment by the sounds of it. The magnets for the allen key and spanner etc is a nice touch as well (y)
 

Doug71

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I have had one of those Trend jigs for at least 20 years and have never thought of using shims for different thicknesses :rolleyes:

One thing I like about the jig is that it's easy to remove the drill guides so you can clamp one to a workpiece with a quick clamp or similar which can be handy in some situations.
 

robgul

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I have had one of those Trend jigs for at least 20 years and have never thought of using shims for different thicknesses :rolleyes:

One thing I like about the jig is that it's easy to remove the drill guides so you can clamp one to a workpiece with a quick clamp or similar which can be handy in some situations.

There is another Trend jig like the one being discussed - it's the "Pro" version that has adjutsable height columns to do what the shims do . . . it's about twice the price of the basic model!!
 

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