Treatment for ground contact wood

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The alternative is no treatment and just steal yourself to replace them as required, no danger to plants that way.
And when you replace them don't use any kind of fir if you use riven (not saw cut) sweet chestnut it has the longest in soil contact life span of any British grown timber, possibly any timber at all. it will last at least 15~30 years as a fence post, likely longer than that as a border, it needs no treatment for that lifespan
 
Looks fantastic have you used it what do you think?
Yes I have used it. In my experience it does what it claims to do. Wonderful natural finish, no flaking or peeling, in fact when you put it on you think you are painting water! You can use a garden pump sprayer, how easy is that!

I would use this product over any other finish for protection, and looks (I like natural looking finishes).

If mixing to use for small projects mix with distilled water and it will keep all year, otherwise mix with tap water and sling it on.
 
Yes I have used it. In my experience it does what it claims to do. Wonderful natural finish, no flaking or peeling, in fact when you put it on you think you are painting water! You can use a garden pump sprayer, how easy is that!

I would use this product over any other finish for protection, and looks (I like natural looking finishes).

If mixing to use for small projects mix with distilled water and it will keep all year, otherwise mix with tap water and sling it on.

Brilliant I like the look of it too. I'm making some raised beds in the near future seems perfect for them too
 
Brilliant I like the look of it too. I'm making some raised beds in the near future seems perfect for them too
When I contacted the company to ask if the fishish was safe for wood spoons and bowls they said yes. I normally use walnut oil but if someone was allergic to nut oil it makes an alternative. So for raised beds I think it would be a good finish.
 
You need timber treated to UC4 (Usage Class 4/BS8417 [includes BS EN 350:2016]) - see UC4 Timber Preserving Treatment, i.e. UC4 Gravel boards, e.g. Wooden Gravel Boards | UC4 Longlast Timber | Gravel Board Timber

Most UK treated (tanalised etc.) timber is UC3 which is not suitable for long-term contact with soil - it rots really quickly and then you end up paying for and doing the job again.

Ask for UC4 treated timber - it's more expensive and not easy to find, but is the British Standard for timber which is to be in contact with the ground. We have just built a set of raised beds using 203mm x 22mm x 3.6mtr planks of UC4 and UC4 50mm x 50mm x 400mm pegs - they should last 15 - 20 years. Note that UC4 pegs should be cut as pegs, then treated, so that everything below ground is properly pressure treated, Cutting after treating for below ground use is a no-no, even with soaking in Cuprinol/whatever.

If you are told that timber is UC4, check really carefully - I've had folk tell me "Oh yes sir! All our timber is UC4"!!! Highly unlikely - 95% of UK treated timber is UC3 - insist on seeing documentation before paying for UC4.

UC4 treated timber refers to wood that has been treated to a standard that makes it suitable to be in permanent contact with the ground outside, for example timber posts or decking joists.

To achieve this level of durability the timber goes through a complex treatment process. It is first kiln dried, reducing the moisture content of the wood to a maximum of 28%, allowing the subsequent application of preservative treatment to penetrate deeper into the timber. Kiln drying is a long and controlled process, taking up to a week, to ensure that the wood does not split or warp during drying.

The dried timber is then pressure treated, which is the method used to force the preservative deep into the wood. To achieve this the timber is loaded into an air-tight vessel and a vacuum is applied. The vessel is then flooded with preservative at pressure while still under vacuum, forcing the treatment into the timber. Excess preservative is then pumped out, the vacuum is released, and the returning air pulls the preservative even deeper inside the timber.

The treated wood is then allowed to air dry for 48 hours, resulting in a highly durable and water resistant timber which should give at least 15 years service for ground contact applications.
 
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Sounds highly unlikely to me. There are two ways to prevent microorganisms, insects or other critters causing damage to wood.
You can physically block them; paint, varnish etc work that way. Or you can introduce a compound which is unpleasant (almost always toxic) to them. This is the way trees protect themselves; they make toxins that will kill invading organisms or make the wood indigestible.
This product claims to be both non toxic and contain no inert particles (which might provide a physical barrier).
They also do not say how the stuff works, which makes me very suspicious; my best guess would be "the force" or some other form of magic! Perhaps snake oil?
The product is low cost so will not be anything "high tech". If it does in fact work then I am very doubtful of their "non-toxic" claims.
 
Sounds highly unlikely to me. There are two ways to prevent microorganisms, insects or other critters causing damage to wood.
You can physically block them; paint, varnish etc work that way. Or you can introduce a compound which is unpleasant (almost always toxic) to them. This is the way trees protect themselves; they make toxins that will kill invading organisms or make the wood indigestible.
This product claims to be both non toxic and contain no inert particles (which might provide a physical barrier).
They also do not say how the stuff works, which makes me very suspicious; my best guess would be "the force" or some other form of magic! Perhaps snake oil?
The product is low cost so will not be anything "high tech". If it does in fact work then I am very doubtful of their "non-toxic" claims.
Please contact them and test the claims. If it is indeed non-eco then I would not use it because of the principle of false claims. I will always use eco products if I have a choice.
It works, I can say that. I made an arty hand carved window frame 5 years ago which gets the 35c+ in the summer and -8c in the winter, with a wet bit in the middle, and it has not deteriorated in the slightest. I had tried Linseed oil first (because I had some, I try to be eco, and I was feeling very arty that day,lol) and the sun took it straight off and started splitting the wood, it can be fierce in Dordogne in summer, but one application of this eco stuff, and bang sorted.

I wrote to them, ages ago and they told me it would indeed be safe for wood spoons and bowls I carve (although I use walnut oil, as I love the smell and feel of it!).

Once again, please make enquiries (Is that inquiries in Canada like US?) and let us all know.
 
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