Tray ceiling - timber choices

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If you do mr mdf, you can use this corner detail. Its a simple rebate, leaving a 3mm lip. Obviously glue the joint with a good glue ( d4 or wood weld ) and pin or clamp to close it up.
400 centres is recommended and works well with the 2400 sheet sizes.
 

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Your setting out should be as my rough sketch below. The upstanding and gap should be equal. If you feel confident in mdf and are able to deal with the joints then go for it. I would recommend you explore the plasterboard route though.

As pip1954 I have also wanted to do this to my ceilings at home but never lived any where with enough storey height. Look forward to your progress photos when you get started.

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Suspected this was the case when the videos I saw all used MDF. Pricing is a win for plywood cabinet makers but alas not me in this instance, will stick to MDF.

With regards to sealing, I'm guessing it's cheaper to seal standard MDF than pay the 25% extra for moisture resistant MDF but how does it compare performance wise or given fact it's bedroom not bathroom/kitchen I shouldn't be overly concerned?

If sealed on all edges, will be fine in a non bathroom situation - MRMDF is generally for high humidity areas. The edges will take a little bit of work to make look good if any are exposed, a shellac sanding sealer works well to tame all the "hairyness" when they are painted; easier to apply and be liberal with it to really soak in and harden up the fibres, dries quick and sands back easily compared to using a water based primer that clogs up when sanded.

You'll get a lovely flat smooth surface for painting.
 
Massive thank you everyone. I mean honestly. I'm a member of a few forums (electricians/plumbers/tilers you name it) but the quality of responses and helpfulness here are a credit to you all.

Taking everything on board, I am going to build the stud frame myself (with 50x50mm), run first fix wiring for the lights then hand over to the plasterers to board and skim. That seems the only real way to not only get a nice long term finish on the joints but also where it meets the wall.

Playing in my hand with so many different permutations of wood vs metal stud, MDF + sealing vs MR MDF vs ply etc etc I just felt I was going to end up with a very labour intensive solution that was unlikely to create a flawless permanent finish all because my history with plasterers has been far from a pleasant one. Time to get back on that horse as they say.

Plus I've got the benefit of trial and error as I have 3 bedrooms and a cinema room to do.

I can't remember who it was that asked but with regards to the origin of my thought process to use MDF cladding for the cinema room it was these guys and their very helpful timelapse videos: Home Cinema Installation - Multi Room Audio - UK Home Cinemas - UK Home Cinemas
 
Can we have some more info on these glues please and why you prefer to say Titebond.
D4 is a resin based wood glue, looks like a slightly yellow pva. Its external grade and easy to get.
https://www.toolstation.com/d4-wood...GphXrMaBDmaAOFLNp-caAimaEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.dsWood weld ( also called other things ) is a polyurethane glue, like the brown gorilla glue, that foams slighty and expands which can fill small gaps. It sticks very well. When wood weld first appeared we glued some offcuts together in various ways to test it. When we smashed the end grain to edge grain piece apart, lots of the end grain remained stuck to the edge.....
https://www.toolstation.com/5-minut...aqKblxyZ4JrtjFTuD3gaAku4EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
P.s i think titebond 3 is a d4 glue and you can wet one surface of the polyurethane joint to get a stronger bond, same as expanding foam
 
Weights and costing must be totally different in England than here.
1/2" MDF is about 60lb (27kg) for a 4'x8' sheet. 1/2" drywall is 51lb (23kg)
1/2" MDF costs $65Cad and Drywall costs $31Cad.

While I don't relish hanging and mudding drywall I despise MDF even more, (68 years old) the drywall makes for a much better looking job when done. Maybe you should look into having that part done by a crew. Cash on a weekend and you are ready for paint.

Pete

I wrote my response while on page 1 and it looks like you are going the drywall way anyway.
 
All finished, well from a structural perspective. I've run first fix wiring so just a case of cutting out the downlight holes and running the LED strips but will last the plaster dry for a few more weeks and get a mist coat on before any of that. That's the 3 main bedrooms done and has removed any odd angles in the ceilings from stair cases and roof trusses etc. Will be doing this one more time in cinema room but that's a 2023 project.

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whilst I like the look of these it strikes me that swmbo would literally have kittens at the mere thought of all the creepy crawlies that could be hiding up there unseen... :ROFLMAO:
 
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