Transistor problem

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Steve Maskery

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I have a doorbell. On the face of it it is a traditional jingly-jangly spirally-springy doorbell.

Originally it was a simple electrical operation - caller pressed the button, button closed the circuit, motor operated cam, cam waggled bell-spring.

That is fine as long as the bell cabinet is just the other side of the wall to the bell-push. But in my house there is a separation of a couple of metres as well as a couple of walls, and I didn't want to surface-route a bell wire.

So I made it wireless, using a design from Instructables

It's worked fine for years, but the receiver is hungry on batteries, because it is always listening out for a signal.

It recently stopped working again, so I assumed it was the batteries, but after installing a brand new set, it still doesn't work. Nothing. So I've been trying to work out what has gone wrong. This is how it works.

1. Nice brass bell push from Verona makes a contact. √

2. This contact is fed into a plastic wireless bell-push, as if it were the plastic bell-push that had been activated. Plastic bell push lights up and sends a signal.√

3. Wireless receiver receives signal and makes a pin High. Speaker has been removed so that it doesn't play the ghastly midi-tune. √

4. Signal from High pin is connected, via a 1K resistor, to the Base of a transistor. √

5. We'll do step 5 in a mo.

6. When the relay receives a small input voltage, it allows a 9V voltage to flow, which drives the motor which jingle-jangles the bell. √

I think that Step 5 is the problem. The Collector and the Emitter are connected across the input of a solid state relay (Edit - in series with the 3V power supply). When the Base goes High current passes, for as long as the annoying jingle would play if the speaker was attached. At least, that is what is supposed to happen. I know that the relay works, because if I put a voltage across the input manually, I get an output.

So it would seem to me that the transistor has stopped working. Is that likely? Why would a solid-state transistor suddenly stop transisting?

I've ordered some electronic bits and piece to remake the circuit board (I can't find my little stash of components, no doubt they will turn up the day after the new ones arrive). But they will take a while to arrive, so in the meantime I am living in a doorbell-free zone.

I'm just puzzled why something like this would suddenly stop working. Any ideas?
 
Every thing breaks eventually.
Some multi testers have functions for testing transistors, do you have a multitester? and does it have a little three pin round socket marked PNP /NPN?
 
I'm trying to picture your circuit in my head and I'm confused on the design. Why do you have the Transistor C and E across the relay? Normal design convention would have the relay between +Vsupply and the collector, with a back EMF freewheeling diode across the relay. It could be this that has damaged your components, although it would be strange to have it appear on a delay.
 
sunnybob":34at72nf said:
Every thing breaks eventually.
Some multi testers have functions for testing transistors, do you have a multitester? and does it have a little three pin round socket marked PNP /NPN?

I have, but no it doesn't.
 
LancsRick":1cabz4cn said:
I'm trying to picture your circuit in my head and I'm confused on the design. Why do you have the Transistor C and E across the relay? Normal design convention would have the relay between +Vsupply and the collector, with a back EMF freewheeling diode across the relay. It could be this that has damaged your components, although it would be strange to have it appear on a delay.

I didn't describe that very well. It does sit between the +V and the Collector. But I do not have a diode in the circuit. Do I need one? It's been working for 5+ years without.

Edit: I've just looked at the Instructables article. It has a diode in the circuit. I'm wondering if that is a later edit, as I'm pretty sure that I don't remember it and would have incorporated one if it had said so.

I don't really understand what it does, TBH, as it all runs on DC anyway. But then my knowledge of electronics is just enough to be a Dangerous Thing.

If I do, what sort of spec do I need please?

Another edit:
I think I am right about the original post being edited. There is a capacitor in the circuit diagram, but it is not listed in the You Will Need list. I've just ordered a handful of capacitors, too.

Fingers crossed.
 
If its a solid state relay you won't need a diode, no back EMF.

I would test the voltage on the collector when the door bell is operated to see if it drops, then if it does the transistor should be conducting.

Pete

I can pop over if you get stuck with some test equipment!

DSC_0290 by Racers, on Flickr
 
Pete is a star.

He turned up this morning laden with e-stuff. After a bit of poking around, he came to the same conclusion that I had, that the transistor was the problem, so I was quite please with myself about that.

So swap out the tranny for a new one and Robert is definitely related on your father's side.

The only slight worry is that the old tranny showed up as OK on his Magic Meter. Still, you can't deny that swapping the T did the trick.

So the bell is re-installed and the brass bell push has been polished and I'm now waiting for the lacquer to dry.

I am a very happy chappie. Thanks, Pete.
 
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