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Tools I wish somebody made, and what I need them for.

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johnelliott

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I think this is a good idea for a thread, because it may be that somebody else reading my description of a tool that doesn't exist may happen to know that it does exist, or something else that will do the job. They might even start making them! Anyway, here goes with the first desired item-
A big 'G' cramp with a throat at least 300mm deep.
I would use it, when making right angled joints in worktops, to squeeze the two parts level. Quite often worktops are not perfectly flat, and that means that one side of the joint stands up slightly, and leaves an edge that can be felt, or seen even. Easy to deal with at the edges, just put a cramp across both parts, tighten it and the two halves are levelled before doing up the bolts on the underside of the joint.
So, what do you need?

John
 

Alf

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John,

It's not a G-cramp, so possibly not suitable for your application, but I wonder if an uber wooden handscrew would work? I'm sure I've seen enormous old ones used by boat builders. Just a thought.

Cheers, Alf

 

Midnight

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John... put me down for a half dozen of them ultra deep G-clamps huh..?
If nothing else, they'd help keep the air in the shop from turning blue come glue up time.

Additionally... I'd love to see another 2 varients of the Veritas honing guide; first one a bit bigger than standard, capable of handling the blade of my L-N 112; the other a good bit smaller, capable of holding my butt chisels.

Lightweight sash clamps in the 6-8ft range would be priceless too.

While I'm at it, a shop vac with a LARGE capacity, based around the Dyson cyclone concept.
 

Alf

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Midnight":2lu9j7fh said:
I'd love to see another 2 varients of the Veritas honing guide; first one a bit bigger than standard, capable of handling the blade of my L-N 112; the other a good bit smaller, capable of holding my butt chisels.
I think I'm right in saying that they're working on a mark two to accept wider blades. Not inside info, just something on another forum vaguely recalled. You're best bet is to learn to freehand 'em... :wink:

I'll second the cyclone dust ex.

Cheers, Alf
 

Chris Knight

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johnelliott":2a6a2rc6 said:
A big 'G' cramp with a throat at least 300mm deep
John,
I reckon Alf is onto something. I use handscrews a lot and find them enormously useful for all kinds of workholding. I just nipped out to measure my biggest - they are 12 inches overall and have a six inch throat (same as my biggest Bessey F clamps). For your application I think it would be pretty easy to make up a set yourself with threaded rod and two bits of a hardwood plus a few nuts and epoxy. Since you are dealing with a strictly limited range of thicknesses and also do not need the tapered opening possibilities of the regular handscrew you can make something like an engineer's toolmaker's clamp without the rotating barrel nut of the handscrews.
 

Midnight

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You're best bet is to learn to freehand 'em...
aawwwwwwwww.....mannnnnnn do I GOTTA....?????

anybody know if they make bandaid's for waterstones.???
 

Chris Knight

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Midnight":2bg5xckm said:
Lightweight sash clamps in the 6-8ft range would be priceless too
Mike,

I made the mistake of buying some long (five feet ) lightweight sash cramps - or at least something extremely close to the traditional sash cramp design. Mine are of aluminium, made by Jorgensen - hence, presumably, a good make. However (and there is always a but isn't there?), they bend like crazy when using them at the full length.

I think one is essentially running up against the basic physics/properties of materials thing. Yes, carbon fibre or titanium may provide an answer but meanwhile use one or two regular (but heavy) sash cramps and get SWMBO to help install them.
 
A

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I would love an 'automatic' remote height adjuster for my inverted table mounted router. Type in a height measurement, press a button and hey presto the height is set and if not 100% right use the same button to 'fine tune' it without having to bend double and fiddle with 'manual' adjusters :wink:
 

Midnight

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However (and there is always a but isn't there?), they bend like crazy when using them at the full length.
Chris.. my sympathies re your Jorgies. I honestly can't say I've had a prob with my 5 footers, and believe me they're nothing fancy. My probs start when I gotta improvise something to clamp over the 5ft mark i.e. across the diagonals during glue up to draw the piece into square. I have enough of them to clamp 2 together to make a frankenclamp... but they're far from perfect.
 
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Chris, that's good to know, perhaps I can find a 'broken' top of the line SM going cheap and convert that part to fit my router :)
 

johnelliott

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waterhead37":gt7iejvy said:
I think one is essentially running up against the basic physics/properties of materials thing.
Very much the unspoken part of my original post. For instance, my 300mm throat cramp problem would be easily solved if a suitably stiff, light and cheap material was available.
John
 
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Anonymous

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No good for you John but I needed to cramp up a pine door I was making so I made the cramps out of 12mm stainless steel threaded round bar, three per side going through 3"x2" beech with large eared wing nuts to tighten them up, cheaper than any 'manufactured' versions I could find and they did the job nicely but I try and make as many accessories myself before having to buy things :wink:
 

johnelliott

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Well done, Jake. I'll have to see if I can buy one of those for, as you say, under a grand. I know it won't be cheap, but I would be prepared to spend quite a bit.
John
 
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Anonymous

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Hi John,

Something i've used in the past to good effect is a go-bar.
For those of you not aware of it, it's a timber brace used in this case from worktop to a fixed point above (usually the ceiling).
It's normally associated with stairmaking where the case is assembled on its side allowing the strings to be cramped into position so that the wedges can be knocked up.
I put a pad on the ceiling to prevent it from damage, making sure it spans across a couple of joists and then tap the go-bar/brace into position until the piece of worktop sitting up is forced down flush.
It works fine for me, although i'm not sure Bessey will be too pleased if they lose sales for the sake of a few bits of batten!

cheers,

Andy
 

johnelliott

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Interesting idea, Andy, I will try that next time it crops up.

So, nobody else wish for a tool that doesn't, as far as they know, exist (yet)?
How about a router that has a centre of gravity that is offset from the centre of the base, in other words a machine that could work on an edge without tipping over if you let go?
John
 
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