The numptiest of outdoor project questions..

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mullermn

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Hi,

I've got a few outdoor projects I would like to build, the most pressing of which is some field-style gates. I have enough wood work experience to be able to do this, but probably not enough to get it right ;) I'll be content if I have to re-make this in a few years as long as I learn something in doing it.

That said, the biggest stumbling block I've hit so far is what material to use. Do I go for pressure treated softwood, because it's forgiving of mistakes (financially) and likely to survive outdoor well? Does glued joinery work in pressure treated wood? I'm planning to use field gate hinges, so I'm assuming that securing timber that is a good fit for the width of the hinge is important. What happens if the dimensions are not quite right - presumably thicknessing etc is a bad idea due to the impact on the tools, plus removing the outer layers of wood that carry the treatment seems dumb.

Secondly, I'm concerned about my ability (as a DIY punter) to get hold of sufficiently straight boards for the longest of the 3 gates I'd like to build (3.5-4m, depending on the exact position the post turns out to be, allowances for hinges etc). I'm assuming commercial outfits can afford to buy a truckload and cherry pick the best specimens for their longest gates. Any thoughts on this? How much excess should I allow for having to trim when speccing my raw material, please?

Very dumb questions, I know. Any tips/tricks/major pitfalls to be aware of gratefully received..

Many thanks.
 
To answer the second part - do what most people do and go to the timber yard and select the stuff you want (and mark it if they're going to deliver for you)

. . . and for the first - I'd go to a supplier of farm gates, have a look at what they have and take some photographs and measurments (if you're in Bristol then Jacksons Fencing at Radstock isn't far away)
 
Thanks Rob. You've just made me realise my profile is out of date - I'm a little way north of Bristol now, but there are plenty of fencing suppliers so the tip's still useful.
 
Years ago I bought gates from Cannock Gates, they have a good website so you can see all kinds of designs including 2 field styles. Hinges and various fixtures too.

With timber prices as they are, you might find it an expensive project.
 
Being from darkest Cornwall, I always used to buy my gates in kit form from Dutchy of Cornwall Woodlands. Basically an upright at either end with the mortices precut, and the planks to go in between as is. 5 bars, plus a long one to go diagonally.

Having moved to Greece, I did what any naturalised Cousin Jack would do, and bought treated timber and made my own. The only difference is that I made mine too heavy - they still work, but it's hard going on the posts (rebar and concrete poured in place, but they all lean over despite being dug deep into the ground). It's not hard - the mortice is a hole big enough for the plank to fit into - no complicated tenons required. Just make sure they are at the same height at either end, otherwise it will look more than agricultural. I always used big fat screws, but nails also work. Glue seems a bit ott for a farm gate.

If it was me, I would go to an agricultural supplies shop (Mole Valley Farmers or similar), and see what they have. Failing that, I would go for a walk with a tape measure and a pen and paper, and directly copy someone else's farm gates, then buy the wood accordingly. Definitely treated timber.

And consider using anything except a wooden gate post unless you are happy to dig them out and replace it them 10 years time.
 
I wouldn't glue gates as you need to allow the wood to move, gluing could cause the wood to split and/or warp. I've bought farm gates which are a combination of mortise and tenon joints and bolts and last well. I've also made fairly crude rustic field gates that were simply bolted together with no joints. Unless you want to spend a lot of money on oak or a tropical hardwood, then treated timber is your best bet.
 
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