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Tablesaw Taper Jig

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Charley

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Not sure but you could use a peice of wood with a groove/slot cut into it,
 
A

Anonymous

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Hi Neil

I made a taper jig a few weeks ago and used a straight piece of Ash with a slot cut in it on my router table in place of the brass piece you are looking for; possibly this will serve the purpose if you can't get hold of the brass piece

Works very well.
 

Noel

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Neil, Issac Lord do these but nay cheap. Don't think you really need it. Do Norm style (all wood and a butt hinge (strange term that...)) and a slotted arc and wing nut.Or make a wooden pivot, fixed one side, adjustable Wing nut on the other and then you can tighten up when set. Or use a board as a bed, with a wooden disc mounted off-centre so that it acts like a cam to adjust the angle of the stock being tapered in conjuction with a hold-down and a stop Lastly, cheap and dirty, a big wedge with a lip on it between fence and stock.

Noel
 

Woodythepecker

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Neil, as the others say the easiest way would be to use a block of wood with a slot cut in it.

On the other hand if you really want to use the brass fitting try a window glazier. I do not know what they are called, but i think these devices are/were fitted to wooden windows to stop a child opening the window to far and falling out.

Good luck with your jig.

Regards

Woody

Edit, come to think of it i am sure sheds like B&Q sell them, usually on the racks near the nails and screws etc.
 

SketchUp Guru

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You could use a chest lid support and replace the friction clamp with a machine screw and a small knob.


I've used that sort of tapering jig but prefer a sled with a couple of clamps because I can use it to cut a straigh edge on a board that doesn't have one already, too. I find it easier to use the sled sort of tapering jig because I can see where the blade will cut and I can just line up the layout line on the piece with the edge of the sled.
 

Adam

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Whatchya making then Neil?

Adam
 

mrbmcg

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Dunno about anybody else but using those tapering jigs always gave me the willies. Has several incidents where the the tapered sliver removed jammed between the blade and the table as it was cut away and caused a severe kickback. :shock:

It's always best to have the thick end of the taper being the last bit to cut through although as far as I can remember it wasn't always possible when trying to taper 4 sides of a leg.

I think I gave the taper jig away with some stuff I sold to Noely before it gave me a heart attack.

I cut tapers on the bandsaw now and clean them up on the planer or by hand. :wink:
 

Noel

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So that's why!! "I think I gave the taper jig away with some stuff I sold to Noely before it gave me a heart attack. " Thank's a bunch!
Nah, it seems ok, used it a few times. For bigger pieces, prefer shopmade jig.

Noel
 

seaco

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This is one I have made, very easy to do... :wink:



Instead of a brass adjuster I made this....and I also added an extra lip that goes over the saw guide to make sure it stays tight to the guide when in use...



And on the saw....

 

Charley

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Lee, love the table saw 8) but I hope the blade guard was only removed for clarity? [-X
 

seaco

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Charley":1xti1pw2 said:
Lee, love the table saw 8) but I hope the blade guard was only removed for clarity? [-X
Of course Charley as Norm would say........ :wink:
 
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