Tablesaw question

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bluenose

Established Member
UKW Supporter
Joined
7 Oct 2010
Messages
177
Reaction score
30
Location
Exmouth Devon
Hi folks, hope you are all enjoying this bit of sunshine we are getting!!!!

Quick question that I can't seem to get my head around please.

I need to cut some 6ft lengths of timber on my table saw where the finished article is tapered, i.e. 3" wide at one end tapering down to 1.5" at the other and I just cannot get my thoughts round this at all. Stupid I know but there you go.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
The problem I see is the length of the work piece, most commercial or equivalent shop made jigs are fine for shorter cuts but once you get over about 3ft you have the issue of balancing a long and possibly flexible piece of timber on the front edge of the machine along with the jig. Registering this accurately against the fence without twisting it will be a challenge. I would say that if you have one or know someone who does, a track saw would be by far the easiest, safest and most accurate way of achieving this.
 
Richard S":lqxyuuwz said:
The problem I see is the length of the work piece, most commercial or equivalent shop made jigs are fine for shorter cuts but once you get over about 3ft you have the issue of balancing a long and possibly flexible piece of timber on the front edge of the machine along with the jig. Registering this accurately against the fence without twisting it will be a challenge. I would say that if you have one or know someone who does, a track saw would be by far the easiest, safest and most accurate way of achieving this.
hi Richard S, thank you for coming in on this. Can't say that I have ever heard of a track saw, can you enlighten me please. Thanks again for offering guidance.
 
Could you simply screw or clamp the timber onto a large sheet of MDF or similar at the correct angle and run the MDF through the saw against the fence?
 
bluenose":sphesjq5 said:
Richard S":sphesjq5 said:
The problem I see is the length of the work piece, most commercial or equivalent shop made jigs are fine for shorter cuts but once you get over about 3ft you have the issue of balancing a long and possibly flexible piece of timber on the front edge of the machine along with the jig. Registering this accurately against the fence without twisting it will be a challenge. I would say that if you have one or know someone who does, a track saw would be by far the easiest, safest and most accurate way of achieving this.
hi Richard S, thank you for coming in on this. Can't say that I have ever heard of a track saw, can you enlighten me please. Thanks again for offering guidance.

Track saw,

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=track ... 0&bih=1078

plus you can make your own version. There is a thread on the forum from today on a home made track saw.

my-homemade-track-saw-t69969.html
 
oakfield":zxu1vlj6 said:
Could you simply screw or clamp the timber onto a large sheet of MDF or similar at the correct angle and run the MDF through the saw against the fence?

That's how I've done it in the past, cutting 7' tapered legs [19mm ply x8] for a collapsible stall for my son's business. I attached a strip of ply the same length and approx 6" wide, fixed at the desired angle to the piece to be cut. Not only does it take care of the taper but it stiffens the whole workpiece making it safer and easier to handle.
 
-1 for the tracksaw. The workpiece is too narrow. Also you would need to fit a rip blade to the saw to do the job properly and that is likely to damage the working edge of your track, unless it is an absolutely identical kerf. DAMHIKT.

+1 for a wedgeboard, although for that length I would be happier on a bandsaw, unless I had very good tablesaw outfeed support.

S
 
Your local timber merchant may well have firring strips in stock that will do the job otherwise I'm sure he will cut them for you.

Richard
 
Back
Top