Table Saw Woe

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delboy47

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I have a Scheppach TS2500 table saw but am experiencing great difficulty removing the retaining nut in order to change the blade. The shaft is held by a steel rod in order to loosen or tighten the nut but all I have managed to do is bend the rod and even broken a piece off the end. Does anyone know it the nut is left hand thread or conventional? I cant't remember from the last time I changed the blade but I have tried both ways to no avail. The manual does not say so I assume it is conventional thread - anticlockwise to loosen. I have also tried a "whack" with a hammer on the spanner but there is too much spring in the system for this to be effective. Until I can change the blade,I am stuck so be be very grateful for any suggestions and confirmation regarding thread of the retaining nut.
Many thanks
Del Boy
 

WellsWood

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I have the same saw and have experienced this problem. First of all as already said it is a left hand thread, so to loosen the spanner needs to be pulled towards the front of the saw. You're right about a hammer being no good, you simply can't apply enough momentum because of the "spring" in the system (my locking bar is also an inch shorter than it used to be :roll: ). You'll find that a foot or so of 2x2 or a chunk of large diameter dowel will work better as you can hit the spanner really sharply and apply a much more sudden force to the nut without encountering the bounce - done right you barely need the locking bar at all. Finally, once you have removed it, be careful not to over tighten next time. It's not going anywhere as the forces serve to tighten it in use - it's left hand thread for exactly that reason, it's also how you can work out which way to undo it should you forget again next time :wink:

Hope this helps
 

delboy47

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Thanks for that Mark. Lump of wood it is then. I guess you "engage" this in the teeth of the blade.
Cheers
Del
 

WellsWood

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delboy47":270hgm6x said:
Thanks for that Mark. Lump of wood it is then. I guess you "engage" this in the teeth of the blade.
Cheers
Del
I think we may be at cross purposes - I meant use a lump of wood instead of the hammer to clout the spanner with - has the added advantage of doing less damage if things go sideways.
 

delboy47

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Ah got you Mark. Big whack coming soon.
Hadn't seen your reply Wizard thanks for that.
Don't think a DVD will loosen this nut - bit tight for that.

Cheers guys
Del
 

Brentingby

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I only meant that it sounds like you could use some basic help understanding your tablesaw. :roll:
 

delboy47

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Success. Thanks guys.
Brentingby, I was joking but do appreciate your comment as I know it was best intentions.
Cheers
Del
 

Steve Maskery

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Brentigby, TVM for the plug!

Just for future ref, it doesn't matter whether it is a RH or a LH thread, it is ALWAYS undone by pulling the nut towards you, assuming you are standing in the normal position at the front of the saw! :)
S
 

Ed Bray

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Steve Maskery":3s6uak1s said:
Brentigby, TVM for the plug!

Just for future ref, it doesn't matter whether it is a RH or a LH thread, it is ALWAYS undone by pulling the nut towards you.
S
What if you're stood at the back of the saw :lol:
 

SammyQ

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Orright, this works for me:

Vicegrip on sawblade, carefully judged parting of jaws on same to avoid marring blade surface, chipping a tooth or inducing a bend :!:

Carefully spin blade forward until vicegrips are flat on saw table.

Spanner on nut, apply forward force - assuming standing behind saw. It's actually easier to go in front and pull.....

I've tried jamming the blade with a piece of wood a few times and mostly, it works. Trouble is, when it doesn't work, particularly with a coarse rip blade, the potential for brown trousers as a minimum and a tut-tuting doctor in A&E (or Reconstrutive Surgery) as a maximum are just too real :(

'Course, if you have an arbor lock, you can save yourself the price of vicegrips.....

Sam
 
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