siggy_7
Full time tool collector, part time woodworker
I have need to create a jig for doing tapers properly on my table saw. The saw is a Record TS250-RS, which has a sliding beam to the left of the blade (basically a format/panel saw style sliding table). I like the simplicity of home made designs such as Seaco's in this thread: http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/taper-jig-make-or-buy-t57685.html However, they are designed to run along the rip fence, which seems like a missed opportunity given the sliding beam of my saw.
So having thought about it a bit, I've come up with this design to attach onto the beam, with the taper fence then residing on the left side of the blade sitting on top of the sliding table:
The chunky beam on the left attaches to the beam by the two bolts that would normally mount the squaring frame. The rear fence support just slides in and out as it's restrained by blocks (to stop the whole thing moving as a mechanism even if it's not locked down super tight), the front fence support can also pivot. These would be attached by threaded knobs or Bristol levers (not shown). Both front and rear fence supports can pivot where they are joined to the fence, so sliding them in and out sets the angle. I'm reasonably confident that this will work well, however I have seen a number of designs such as the a different place Taper Master which have a pair of toggle clamps to lock the work down onto a board which moves with the jig. I could adapt this jig to work like that with some T-track and the toggle clamps, but it's more hardware and more work. Are there any particular advantages of using toggle clamps, or would the jig above perform similarly well?
So having thought about it a bit, I've come up with this design to attach onto the beam, with the taper fence then residing on the left side of the blade sitting on top of the sliding table:
The chunky beam on the left attaches to the beam by the two bolts that would normally mount the squaring frame. The rear fence support just slides in and out as it's restrained by blocks (to stop the whole thing moving as a mechanism even if it's not locked down super tight), the front fence support can also pivot. These would be attached by threaded knobs or Bristol levers (not shown). Both front and rear fence supports can pivot where they are joined to the fence, so sliding them in and out sets the angle. I'm reasonably confident that this will work well, however I have seen a number of designs such as the a different place Taper Master which have a pair of toggle clamps to lock the work down onto a board which moves with the jig. I could adapt this jig to work like that with some T-track and the toggle clamps, but it's more hardware and more work. Are there any particular advantages of using toggle clamps, or would the jig above perform similarly well?