Table saw repair

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artie

Sawdust manufacturer.
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Spent some time on the table saw this afternoon.
My thinking being that I could minimise downtime.
First impression is there is not much to it for £1500 new. Has anyone built their own from scratch? I reckon the motor mount/blade movement assembly is the tricky bit.
Anyway disassembly went smoothly. but alas on starting to put things together again I discovered the new shaft is , in one part about 60 thou thicker than the old one.
So tomorrow I'll take a trip to the local friendly precision engineer and seek his advice. I'm also going to take the opportunity to have the motor checked, don't want to have to dismantle again anytime soon.

Having some time on my hands since the job was not completed I decided to investigate the blade tilt mechanism which has developed a two or three turn slack when changing direction.

The problem is a very inferior cir clip or as I have just discovered on google an "other bearing cir clip".

It reminds me very much on a ring my daughter got in a lucky bag when she was 6 years old.

Hope someone can suggest an alternative to this before reassembly.

The shaft is 12 mm with the recess for the cir clip 11mm
 
I doubt I can help but even those that can would want to know the make, model number, serial number, motor size, blade size, pictures of the parts and any other information you have for the saw you are asking about.

Pete
 
I doubt I can help but even those that can would want to know the make, model number, serial number, motor size, blade size, pictures of the parts and any other information you have for the saw you are asking about.

Pete
Looking back at my post it is a bit of a ramble, but the upshot of it is merely that I would like a sturdy replacement for an other bearing cir clip.
But perhaps a new one might be made of sterner stuff than the original manufacturers.
 
Even though you have replied to inspectors post, you have not given any of the information asked for so you cant expect accurate help related to your machine.
If there is room, use a metal collar instead held in place with grub screws or better still with a cross pin. your engineer friend should be able to knock one up for you
Circlips are not really meant for heavy thrust applications. Sounds like it simply a poor design.
 
Even though you have replied to inspectors post, you have not given any of the information asked for so you cant expect accurate help related to your machine.

Not trying to be secretive twas a query about a other bearing cir clip. a quite common item. Saw details below.

If there is room, use a metal collar instead held in place with grub screws or better still with a cross pin. your engineer friend should be able to knock one up for you
Circlips are not really meant for heavy thrust applications. Sounds like it simply a poor design.

That sounds like a good long term solution.
 

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It's like telling your doctor you have a sore toe and not taking your shoes off. How is he/she going to diagnose and treat the problem without knowing what foot? What toe? Stubbed it or dropped a brick on it? Ingrown nail? Stepped on a nail? Anybody responding is just WAG at what might work.

Pete

WAG = wild *** guessing.
 
That’s technically not a circlip, it’s called a snap-ring. Without seeing the assembly I can’t make too much more of a contribution but you would normally only use something like that for a one-time assembly, done in the right way they can be incredibly tough things to retain an assembly together

aidan
 
That’s technically not a circlip, it’s called a snap-ring. Without seeing the assembly I can’t make too much more of a contribution but you would normally only use something like that for a one-time assembly, done in the right way they can be incredibly tough things to retain an assembly together

aidan
I can go out and take a pic after supper if necessary, in the meantime do you think it could be replaced with a cir clip?
 
I can go out and take a pic after supper if necessary, in the meantime do you think it could be replaced with a cir clip?

Does the groove it sits in have a round/radius bottom to is it square cut? If it isn't square the normal circlip with the two ears and holes for the pliers won't sit in it properly.

Pete
 
Does the groove it sits in have a round/radius bottom to is it square cut? If it isn't square the normal circlip with the two ears and holes for the pliers won't sit in it properly.

Pete
I think it's rounded.
I know I'll find out tomorrow in town, but wondering how is a snap ring fitted in the first place?
 
If it is rounded then it always had a snap ring. It is in some cases cut round for a snap ring so as not to create a stress riser, a place where a crack can start.
The snap ring will be forced over a shaft or into a bore and slid along until it snaps, contracts/expands into place. It is meant, as Aiding said, a one shot part. When removed it is discarded and replaced with a new one.

Pete
 
They say a picture paints a thousand words.
 

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If you're looking for a decent table saw, £1500 will buy you a great big chunk of wadkin/robinson/startrite etc...
 
If you're looking for a decent table saw, £1500 will buy you a great big chunk of wadkin/robinson/startrite etc...
Oh yes I know, but I'm spending under £100 on this one and while it will still look well used it should operate like new.
 
Afraid I’m not understanding the context yet, but that groove looks like it’s taken some load and is misshapen?

aidan
I guess I should have taken a bigger pic. The other end of the shaft is a thread, which operates the blade tilt mechanism. the end with the arrow goes through a bushing on the frame to the outside of the cabinet, where a handle is fitted to turn it.
I don't expect it has carried much load but has been turned in and out many times.
 
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