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Table Saw Flatness Tolerance.

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Mark18PLL

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Sorry if this has been asked many many times. I have just purchased a new Dewalt table saw DWE7492, i know its a site saw with an aluminium top but when i have checked for flatness i can get a .30mm feeler gauge under my straight edge around the centre of the table, it looks like the high spots are on the out part of the saw. I use it for a variety of things including some furniture making. This is about the biggest i can go for with the size of my garage workshop.

thanks

Mark
 

Sgian Dubh

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A 0.3mm dip at the centre of the table of a site saw, even one costing about £800, doesn't really raise any alarm bells in me. I'd just use it within its capabilities and not worry about such a small deviation from flat in the top. Naturally, being a site saw the capabilities aren't likely to compare favourably with, let's say, an Altendorf costing several thousands of pounds, but used with care and within its limitations your little saw should be able to achieve decent results, even with an inconsequential dip in the top. Slainte.
 

deema

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I’m with Sgian, if you put a few hundred board feet through it, you will be amazed how fast that deviation disappears from wear.
 

Mark18PLL

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Thanks for the replies, i spoke to the company i purchased it from and they were happy to swap it, i wish i hadn't bothered. The new one arrived tonight and the right side of there top is about 0.8 mm higher when checked with feeler gauge, might be time to give up on Dewalt.
 

Doug71

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You don't have much luck with table saws do you, I'm guessing the Dewalt is to replace the Festool?

I think you need to create some more workshop space and get something with a cast iron top.........
 

D_W

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Years ago, I had a cast top delta hybrid saw. It was almost identical to the 0.3mm measurement you provided (hollow in the middle, front to back in my case).

I sold all of my big power tools years ago and have a saw of that type that can hang on the wall - no clue what its flatness is, but it's intended to be thrown in the back of a truck to cut bits on a jobsite for "house part" accuracy. I have no good suggestion other than trying to find an older saw used if top flatness is really that important.

The follow who got me into woodworking would go on at length about the .006" dropoff that his PM66 had at one corner. I can't think of a reason that it would matter (maybe you could find a way that 1.5mm would cause a problem, but it goes back to the cost and the purpose. For trim carpentry or stick building in quick cabinetry, I can't see that it would amount to much and if you need accuracy, you probably have to pay for it)

The bigger problem with my delta saw was that it ran out .012" also at the tip of the blade, which was .0025 at the arbor - delta said that was the upper limit of their spec and kind of gave me the "thanks for calling, we can do nothing for you". If it was important, I'd have lapped the flanges and marked them with a timing mark. At the time, I figured also that's kind of what you get for the price (closer to $1500 in current dollars).
 

Mark18PLL

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You don't have much luck with table saws do you, I'm guessing the Dewalt is to replace the Festool?

I think you need to create some more workshop space and get something with a cast iron top.........
I hear what you are saying but i just dont have the need for such a large tablesaw, i really need something that i can move around and is not to big. I like the idea that i can always take it on a job if required, the festool was pretty much on the limit as it was quite bulky.
 

Jacob

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Thanks for the replies, i spoke to the company i purchased it from and they were happy to swap it, i wish i hadn't bothered. The new one arrived tonight and the right side of there top is about 0.8 mm higher when checked with feeler gauge, might be time to give up on Dewalt.
I'd give up on feeler gauges if I were you!
The harder you look the more faults you will find
 

Mark18PLL

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I'd give up on feeler gauges if I were you!
The harder you look the more faults you will find
Hi Jacob, when i re checked last night it was over 1.5mm higher on the right side. The problem is i just dont know what to buy, the dewalt seem to be the right choice after the Festool issues. I like the rack and pinion fence and i did have a Dw745 before that was great and it was flat, wish i had never sold it.
 

Jacob

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Hi Jacob, when i re checked last night it was over 1.5mm higher on the right side. The problem is i just dont know what to buy, the dewalt seem to be the right choice after the Festool issues. I like the rack and pinion fence and i did have a Dw745 before that was great and it was flat, wish i had never sold it.
When you try to cut a piece of wood does it show up as out of square? I wouldn't have thought so myself.
 

Spectric

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How flat does a site table saw need to be, if you are ripping then so long as the blade comes through does it really matter about some uneveness in the table. If you are using it to cut tenons or rebates then you may have more of an issue.
 

Doug71

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I hear what you are saying but i just dont have the need for such a large tablesaw, i really need something that i can move around and is not to big. I like the idea that i can always take it on a job if required, the festool was pretty much on the limit as it was quite bulky.
I see a Mafell Erika in your future 🙂
 

deema

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A 1.5mm variance is too much IMO for virtually anything. Most plate topped saws are going to be warped or distorted to some extent. To get a really good top you need cast iron. If size is the biggest issue, have you considered a Startrite 145, 165, 175 or 275. All are far better than again IMO than any of the modern saw youve been looking at. These are some of the most versatile and smaller foot print saws I know. The DS version has a very nice fold down sliding table. The 275 without the extension bars added is all most the same size as the Dewalt. The 145 and 165 are smaller, the 145 is slightly smaller I think.

The dimension of the 275


09ADD929-60F2-401E-87DB-39255614F586.jpeg

The plan dimensions of the 145
15F2C7AA-AF5D-4E97-929D-5398B573A15D.jpeg
 

owen

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Thanks for the replies, i spoke to the company i purchased it from and they were happy to swap it, i wish i hadn't bothered. The new one arrived tonight and the right side of there top is about 0.8 mm higher when checked with feeler gauge, might be time to give up on Dewalt.
Should have listened to the advice on here and not bothered. I think you're asking too much to get a dead flat top, but 1.5mm is a lot, are you sure your straight edge is flat? I've had the same saw for a couple of months and I have to say it's brilliant, I haven't ever felt the need to check the top is flat with feeler gauges though.
 

TRITON

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I’m with Sgian, if you put a few hundred board feet through it, you will be amazed how fast that deviation disappears from wear.
It's a cast iron top(isnt it ?) so I wouldnt have thought it would wear to that degree after only a small amount of use.
Many of the bigger saws that have been in use for decades have little to no wear.
I see a Mafell Erika in your future
Wish it was in mine :LOL:
 

Distinterior

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It's a cast iron top(isnt it ?) so I wouldnt have thought it would wear to that degree after only a small amount of use.
Many of the bigger saws that have been in use for decades have little to no wear.


Wish it was in mine :LOL:
Cast Alloy top I believe....?
 

Jameshow

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Do you need it to be mobile?

If not a kity 627 or axi craft saw.

Cheers James
 

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