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Table Finish?

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PeteG

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I don't really want to ask what is the best finish as I don't have the funds, so.
I have a stain, I think it's Teak, and sanding sealer. I was then thinking of a couple
of coats of clear satin spray and perhaps rubbing it down with a 1000 grade wire wool.
The table will be used for displaying a few house plants, so need to protect from water
damage...Timber is Beech.

Almost Finished.jpg
 

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PeteG

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That would work":2geobq9s said:
Personally I would use Danish oil
Just Danish oil straight on to the Beech? I do have some, not sure it'll blend in and the reason
I thought of staining first....
 

Steve Maskery

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I don't have any advice, finishing is not my forte, but I do like your table. I can really see it in a conservatory covered in houseplants*
S
*The table, that is, not the conservatory...
 

That would work

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Yep just the oil, it's a very personal thing but I can imagine it being lovely especially with those grain patterns. I wouldn't stain beech. (IMHO) :)
 

Steve Maskery

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If you are looking for an oil finish, I'd try BLO on a piece of scrap. Personally I prefer the colour to DO. Just do a test on a spare board.
 

PeteG

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Steve Maskery":2uhq54m0 said:
I don't have any advice, finishing is not my forte, but I do like your table. I can really see it in a conservatory covered in houseplants*
S
*The table, that is, not the conservatory...
Much appreciated Steve :D I've surprised myself on this to be honest, and I've really enjoyed making it. When our lass first saw the top front rail, she thought I had cut the wood following the grain. I said it was all natural and I had only removed the bark...The last piccy I think will include a few plants :D
 

PeteG

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That would work":dazymp2u said:
Yep just the oil, it's a very personal thing but I can imagine it being lovely especially with those grain patterns. I wouldn't stain beech. (IMHO) :)
Steve Maskery":dazymp2u said:
If you are looking for an oil finish, I'd try BLO on a piece of scrap. Personally I prefer the colour to DO. Just do a test on a spare board.
I was just going to say to "That would work" about trying some DO on a piece of scrap.
I have BLO too so will try both :D
 

marcros

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I would go with a wipe on poly for this. The ingredients may cost you a fiver but it would be well spent because it would be much more protective than blo.

I used an odd mixture but sunny on has posted his on the forum somewhere. From memory it was just OIL based varnish thinned down with white spirit. My mix added in some extra oil which probably isn't necessary.
 

PeteG

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marcros":2firu1zf said:
I would go with a wipe on poly for this. The ingredients may cost you a fiver but it would be well spent because it would be much more protective than blo.

I used an odd mixture but sunny on has posted his on the forum somewhere. From memory it was just OIL based varnish thinned down with white spirit. My mix added in some extra oil which probably isn't necessary.
I've already gone with the Danish Oil Marcros. I tried a test this morning with DO and BLO, there didn't look to be too much of a difference on the piece of timber I used. I did a quick google to see if one was better than the other to protect against water, and DO seemed to be the answer. The way the grain has come out on the first coat :D A BIG thank you to "That would work", I think I'd have killed it using the stain and spray can...
 

ED65

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PeteG":2h4hnmwl said:
I've already gone with the Danish Oil Marcros.
Not too late to go with varnish, which would have been my recommendation also, and it should provide noticeably more protection from water splashes. Varnish can be used over Danish as well as over BLO, without skipping a beat: whenever the next coat of oil would have gone on you can apply varnish instead as they are fully compatible.

Many finishes can be used in sequence BTW, rather than you have to stick with just one thing after you've applied it as the first coat. You can use the wonderful colour/depth added by BLO under shellac, varnish, lacquer and even water-bourne finishes if you give the oil a suitable amount of time to dry/cure in each case. In case it's of help for future reference that would be some hours to overnight for the first two, and fully (two weeks to a month or more) in the second two cases.

To turn conventional varnish into the wipe-on variety you just dilute it a bit with white spirit. About 1/4 can be enough, most people use 1/3 to a 1/2 spirits but there's no limit to how thin you can make it if it suits the task at hand.
 

PeteG

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That would work":jsv9m7id said:
I bet it looks lovely. Nice thing about an oil finish is that its so easy to refresh over time.
It does that :D Here's a little teaser...

Danish Oil Shelf.jpg


ED65":jsv9m7id said:
Not too late to go with varnish
I really appreciate the information ED65, had no idea you could apply alternative finishes over oil.
 

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That would work

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Very nice, yep D.O is pretty much the same as the base of oil based varnish so varnish over it is good. wax is as well although that would definately mark with water so less good for your table
 
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