Table edge veneering advice

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Gizmo

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I could really use some good advice on how to proceed with veneering the edge of a table top. I've sanded and squared it off and it is made up of about 6mm oak parquet bonded to a pine base. So it's a kind of plywood affair. To edge the table I'd like to have it appear to be one solid piece of wood so I've got a roll of thin (non pre glued) oak veneer with which to bond to the sides.

Question 1 would be that the pine boards that the oak was initially bonded to are showing gaps along the length. So they need to be filled so the edge is totally covered to accept the new veneer. I was just going to fill these gaps with some good quality wood filler, specifically Liberon Wood Filler and then sand it back flush. Could someone with veneering experience tell me if this is suitable and best practice? Here's a photo of the edge.

Question 2 does anyone know what sort of glue I should be using to bond the veneer to the edge? I was going to just use some Bostik evo wood glue but I'm not sure if it's appropriate. Most of the advice I see covering gluing veneers online talks about large area veneering, using vacuum pressing, which is out of my league equipment wise. Also I've since been made aware of the need to use cauls if I intend to use clamping. Making those to the desired accuracy, ie each angled edge being planed nicely straight, could be a little tricky for me. Sooo, I've recently found this method using Titebond (I'd use 3) and ironing, as if the veneer had come pre glued. Could anyone tell me if this looks a good method to apply the veneer?


Any advice much appreciated!
 

Yojevol

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First thought that came to me - is the basic structure satisfactory? Bonding 2 dissimilar woods together can result in bowing. In this case another layer of oak should be bonded to the underside so that the stresses on the pine are balanced. If the pine is massive compared with the 6mm oak, you may be okay.
Firstly I can't see your photo.
Secondly, yes use a filler on significant gaps. Make sure it has good strength and bonds well to the wood.
I would use a PVA glue for the veneer. Avoid PU glues - you risk getting into a terrible mess and if things go wrong it's difficult to recover from.
The iron-on method would be an excellent approach. I take it that you have square corners and are not attempting curves.
Having coated the surfaces with PVA, line up a strip of (oversized) veneer at one end and heat with the iron. Advance the iron slowly. With your free hand apply pressure with a pad for a few inches behind the iron. Don't overdo the heat, just enough to soften the PVA. An old flat iron would make a good pad - it would help in cooling the glue.
Have a play with the method before committing yourself.
Brian
 
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Droogs

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If your edge banding isn't pre glued, roll it out and put PVA on it and also on the edge you will join it to and then using a non steam iron set to medium, iron it on.
 

Gizmo

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll use one of the Titebonds mentioned then and go the iron route.

@Yojevol Well spotted! Yes the original construction was only bonded on one side. So I've already bonded and screwed another frame of oak underneath it to straighten it and make solid. It's annoying as it's made the thickness of the table almost 5cm but any thinner and it wouldn't of provided sufficient stiffness.
 

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