Switch wiring - advice needed

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jordec66

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Hi All, the switch on my band saw has packed up, so i am proposing to swap it for a plug in type, as per fig 1:

Fig 1:
Plug in switch.jpg

I am wondering whether I can disregard the existing switched black wire from the old switch that runs to the motor, just wiring the earth, live and neutral wires to plug into socket outlet on new switch . This is a photo of the existing switch, showing the earth live and neutral wires, plus the black:

Old switch.jpg


In the photo, the two black wires at the bottom are coming from the 240v power supply and the top terminals go to the motor.

Hope that someone can help
Thanks
Declan
 

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  • Old switch.jpg
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The convention with single phase wiring in this country is that the neutral is not switched, however, if you already have a double pole switch in a machine, replace like with like and don't deviate from what the manufacturer intended. Electrical machines in the EU are covered by stringent safety regulation.

Machines that may be marketed in countries with supply grids that support 2-phase wiring (not the EU) may have switched / fused live and neutrals.


.
 
jordec66":l7y636x9 said:
Hi All, the switch on my band saw has packed up, so i am proposing to swap it for a plug in type, as per fig 1:

Fig 1:
I am wondering whether I can disregard the existing switched black wire from the old switch that runs to the motor, just wiring the earth, live and neutral wires to plug into socket outlet on new switch . This is a photo of the existing switch, showing the earth live and neutral wires, plus the black:



In the photo, the two black wires at the bottom are coming from the 240v power supply and the top terminals go to the motor.

Hope that someone can help
Thanks
Declan

Doesn't that give you a direct wired permanantly on motor? Blue socket provides power in via removeable power cord NVR turns power on off.
 
What make and model is your Bandsaw, why are you not sourcing the correct part for the machine or its nearest modern equivalent.

How have you determined that the switch is faulty, are you sure you have diagnosed the problem correctly.

Do you have a circuit diagram for the machine?

The start/stop button locations are normally positioned with a view to being able to kill the power to the machine in an emergency as easily and quickly as possible.
Controlling the machine supply from a remote connector block is not a good idea from a safety point of view unless it is mounted in a similar easy to access position.

Your existing switch may have a motor overload protection function, have you taken this into account or ascertained whether it has.
 
phil.p":35fldq6g said:
No.1 rule of D.I.Y. - When you're not sure, STOP!

Splintez":35fldq6g said:
Don't take chances. Get a qualified sparks to do it.

With regards to safety issues, I have no intention of tampering with the electrics, I am merely
assesing the viabilty of this particular replacement switch.

The make of bandsaw is a Kity 613, I have tried to track down an original like for like switch to no avail, so I think my best bet would be to try to locate a new compatible switch and have this wired in.

I'll post the outcome, it may be of help to anyone encountering the same problem.

Thanks
Declan.
 
Given its a kity and they are back in production and NMA is the Uk distributor then call NMA and see if they have a direct replacement spare.

Al
 
The sticker on the side of the old switch should have the manufacturers details & model 'number' of the part on it (Kity would not have made it). Google the details & see what you find.

Not all switches switch the same i.e single pole single throw (SPST),double pole single throw (DPST) +++ then latching & non latching plus NVR. Also your motor might have some thermal protection switch wired through that stop start switch so don't think you can do without any of the wires.

If you still want to carry on then you could do with knowing exactly what the original does & then if the replacement does the same & if the load capacity is the same or higher than the old one. Plastic enclosures are easily available to mount a new switch onto if it does not fit into old position... you could also mock up a circuit to test your new switch to operate a light bulb instead of you Kity & have it plugged into n RCD socket .You might want to go to Maplins & get some tools & terminals etc.

Make a schematic of how things are before you start , label the wires that look the same & be extra safe (tight fitting, insulated connections & high IP enclosures etc) but as said before -if you don't have the correct tools to fit & test what you are doing & are at all unsure then stop.
 
Are you sure the switch has "packed up"? The switch on my old Kity bandsaw stopped working, but was restored to full health by cleaning out the accumulated dust from within.
 
dickm":t6ldno9a said:
Are you sure the switch has "packed up"? The switch on my old Kity bandsaw stopped working, but was restored to full health by cleaning out the accumulated dust from within.
Hence my question regarding how was its fault condition diagnosed.
How have you determined that the switch is faulty, are you sure you have diagnosed the problem correctly.

As the OP admits to not having a great deal of electrical experience I wondered how the fault was determined and narrowed down to the switch in any case.
 
dickm":pgoqknm8 said:
Are you sure the switch has "packed up"? The switch on my old Kity bandsaw stopped working, but was restored to full health by cleaning out the accumulated dust from within.

I used to have this problem too occasionally - Have you tried removing the red and green buttons and cleaning all the compressed dust out from the casing beneath them?
 
Hi again, I have taken the switch housing apart and given the inside of the housing and associated parts
a clean, I think it may have done the trick! The switch still does not feel as responsive as it used to, which was one symptom of its progressive failure, but its responding now to a single push as opposed to
repeated hard pushing.

Thanks for your advice guys I really appreciate it.
Declan.
 
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