Supporting work on a Bandsaw

[woodpig]

What are you bandsaw users using to support work while you cut it on your machine. Something like this, or some other solution?

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... kota+dkk15

 

[marcros]

I generally find that the table alone is enough on mine, but it is quite a large table. I have one of these if needed http://www.axminster.co.uk/heavy-duty-roller-ball-stand

with roller stands, don't skimp and get the heaviest duty one that you can find. The lightweight ones are nearly useless, particularly when you need it the most.

I am not sure whether I got my stand on offer, or whether the price has gone up, but I seem to recall paying about £50. It was a tough decision at the time because there were various alternatives, but many had negative reviews about stability.

 

[woodpig]

I probably need a pair so these would be more in my budget but are they too light? A single review on screwfix gave them 5 stars with the comment "good solid bit of kit" but they only weigh 3.5kg each?

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/pa ... Zj6WnCkqrU

One of these would be much more useful I think but aside from the price it takes up too much space.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/heavy-duty-ball-stand

 

[marcros]

the records look flimsy to me, but somebody will probably have a set and can confirm.

The roller ball head is useful, particularly on applications where you don't want the timber being directed- the outside of a planer for instance.

 

[custard]

My bandsaw will accept the "clip on" cast iron Felder table extensions from my other woodworking machinery, so it's a simple matter to extend the bandsaw table as required. In reality I only use this facility for circle cutting and for some quite complex jigs used in chairmaking. For day to day activity, such as ripping down long boards, I'll use a free-standing roller support like the ones you show. Some points you might find relevant,

-it's not just the height setting that's important, but also the side to side adjustment that ensures the roller is truly aligned. If it runs even slightly out the roller support will tend to pull the workpiece one way or the other, making it more difficult to cut precisely to a line
-for this reason, and as it gets used almost every day, I've a dedicated stand adjusted to the bandsaw that lives next to it. Most workshops I've worked in have a similar arrangement.
-personally I only use support on the outfeed side, and I regularly trim off the wane from boards that are 3 or 4 metres long. So save yourself a bit of money and try it first with just one roller stand on the outfeed side and see if you manage okay...although a thick chalk line helps you see where you're supposed to be cutting to with very long boards!

Good luck!

 

[woodpig]

As an example. I need to cut a 6 inch wide strip off the end of a 6' x 2' sheet of 9mm ply. I'll have to cut a slightly larger strip off the end with a hand saw and then trim to size on the bandsaw. I did cut a similar piece from a 4' x 2' sheet the other day all on the bandsaw but it was a bit tricky and I had to stack up some boxes to "catch" the piece I cut off.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

As an example. I need to cut a 6 inch wide strip off the end of a 6' x 2' sheet of 9mm ply. I'll have to cut a slightly larger strip off the end with a hand saw and then trim to size on the bandsaw. I did cut a similar piece from a 4' x 2' sheet the other day all on the bandsaw but it was a bit tricky and I had to stack up some boxes to "catch" the piece I cut off.

because sheet goods are so unwieldy I would make those cuts with a clamped straight edge and a hand held circular saw (I don't own a track saw). Actually the 6x2 foot size I would probably do on the table saw but for sheet goods at 8x4 I always do them off machine first.

 

[Steve Maskery]

cheap cast-iron tripod base things, central post with the roller on the top. They are OK, just. The column regularly comes loose and has to be tightened with an Allen key.I have one with a roller and one with the balls. I wouldn't buy the balls one again, they are impossible to keep free-running, and if they don't run freely, they don't do their job at all well.

But the roller one is useable.

The biggest problem with them is that they have to be set at EXACTLY the right height if they are to work. And if the workpiece is long ( and why would you need a roller stand if it isn't?) thenif the far end droops under its own weight, it can knock the stand overrather than de smoothly over it.

What to do?

Well I have a catcher-board on mine. It's a piece of 6mm MDF about a foot or so square with two battens screwed underneath, just far enough apart to drop over the roller. They are off-centre, so the top always leans to one side. This side faces the thickness or bandsaw. As the workpiece hits it, it doesn't matter if it has drooped a tad, the catcher-board is pushed level and the workpiece slides smoothly over it.

I'm just about to go out, otherwise I'd take a pic.

 

[custard]

As an example. I need to cut a 6 inch wide strip off the end of a 6' x 2' sheet of 9mm ply. I'll have to cut a slightly larger strip off the end with a hand saw and then trim to size on the bandsaw. I did cut a similar piece from a 4' x 2' sheet the other day all on the bandsaw but it was a bit tricky and I had to stack up some boxes to "catch" the piece I cut off.

Bandsaws and sheet goods aren't comfortable companions. Leave aside the work support issues, the tear out on ply is a problem. If you can possibly run to it, a hand held circular saw and a track are the way to go for sheet goods.

 

[Steve Maskery]

This is my catcher-board:

I hangs to one side because it is built off-centre:

As the board approaches it, it doesn't matter if the workpiece has sagged a little:

When it makes contact, the board is pushed level and supports the workpiece nicely.

 

[woodpig]

Clever idea Steve, thanks for taking the time to post some pictures. ccasion5:

 

[Racers]

Nice one Steve.
The other problem with the roller ones is you have to set the roller as 90 degrees to the feed direction, or your work piece moves sideways as you feed.

Pete

 

[stuartpaul]

I love Steve's solution. I suspect with a well waxed top that'll eliminate the 'bias' effect if the roller isn't exactly at 90 degrees (as mentioned by others).

By the way I use rollers for all my support work! Soon to be rollers with catcher plates

 

[Steve Maskery]

Once it's flat there is no directional bias at all, it's just a flat, smooth surface.
Waxing is a good idea.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

You're a veritable treasure trove of quirky, simple but effective ideas like that Steve. Where did you first learn them?

 

[Steve Maskery]

I was born knowing everything.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Not.

 

[custard]

Nice idea. I'll be making one of those tomorrow!

 

[sploo]

Steve - very clever idea.

woodpig - I've got a cheap/light/flimsy roller stand. In lieu of Steve's clever catcher idea I usually take a look at how much sag is likely on the material, then set the height accordingly. I've never had one fall over, and find they work perfectly adequately. I'm sure a house brick or two on the horizontal part of the feet would prevent a cheap one tipping over.

 

[Steve Maskery]

You're a veritable treasure trove of quirky, simple but effective ideas like that Steve. Where did you first learn them?

Quirky, moi? How dare you, sir!



It's a fair q. The answer is that I can't remember, but I do know I didn't invent it. I have invented a couple of things, built on the shoulders of giants, but this isn't one of them. So it probably came from an old magazine or book. Woodworker, Fine Woodworking or Robert Wearing, all late 1970s / 1980s / early 1990s, at a guess. There is your treasure trove. I'm just passing it on to another generation.

S