Stud Wall

[Mark18PLL]

Hello everyone,

I am constructing a stud wall to fill a double doorway to close the room off and have a couple of questions.
We will be plastering the whole wall and not just the opening, so with this in mind i thought it might be best to fit a plasterboard flush with the existing wall on either side, would this be the correct way to do it?
The walls on either side are stone and i was thinking of using the fixings below, i am happy with the length of the screws as i am using 4x2 for the studs but was wondering if i should you a larger diameter, say a 10mm.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-8-x-120mm-50-pack/90560
Thanks
Mark

 

[Stigmorgan]

Hello everyone,

I am constructing a stud wall to fill a double doorway to close the room off and have a couple of questions.
We will be plastering the whole wall and not just the opening, so with this in mind i thought it might be best to fit a plasterboard flush with the existing wall on either side, would this be the correct way to do it?
The walls on either side are stone and i was thinking of using the fixings below, i am happy with the length of the screws as i am using 4x2 for the studs but was wondering if i should you a larger diameter, say a 10mm.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-8-x-120mm-50-pack/90560
Thanks
Mark

A box of drywall screws would be cheaper and just as effective, 8x120mm is overkill, your plasterboard will be approx 20mm and 4x2 tends to average at 95mm rather than 100mm.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

For many years I've found Thunderbolts better than any hammer in fittings.

 

[Mark18PLL]

A box of drywall screws would be cheaper and just as effective, 8x120mm is overkill, your plasterboard will be approx 20mm and 4x2 tends to average at 95mm rather than 100mm.

Drywall screws for going into stone???? I am fixing the side studs into stone.

 

[Mark18PLL]

For many years I've found Thunderbolts better than any hammer in fittings.

Cheers, will have a look at those.

 

[Spectric]

Use Fischer plugs and decent screws, not hammer fixings and much easier to get things upright. Once the gap is filled using 12.5 it may be worth covering the whole wall with 6mm, dot and dab so you don't end up with an outline of the gap.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Thunderbolt is a trade name, others are available. They good for door frames etc. as they can be unscrewed and done up again, unlike a lot of other fixings.

 

[Stigmorgan]

Drywall screws for going into stone???? I am fixing the side studs into stone.

Ah I misunderstood what you meant. In that case I would agree with what Spectric says

 

[mikej460]

Is the stonework nice or could be nice? I've kept the stone face as is and built the plasterboard proud of the stonework with a curved edge and simply feathered it into the stonework. It looks really good if done correctly. If you are convinced the stonework needs plastering over then obviously flush plasterboard

 

[Mark18PLL]

Is the stonework nice or could be nice? I've kept the stone face as is and built the plasterboard proud of the stonework with a curved edge and simply feathered it into the stonework. It looks really good if done correctly. If you are convinced the stonework needs plastering over then obviously flush plasterboard

Its an external wall to the conservatory and basically i am closing the opening up as we have another access route to it, im just going into the sides of the external wall.

 

[Mark18PLL]

Use Fischer plugs and decent screws, not hammer fixings and much easier to get things upright. Once the gap is filled using 12.5 it may be worth covering the whole wall with 6mm, dot and dab so you don't end up with an outline of the gap.

Thanks, i cant really do the dot and dab as i have cornice around the top of the whole room and it might look a bit odd. I will just make sure i put scrim tape around all of the joints.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Thanks, i cant really do the dot and dab as i have cornice around the top of the whole room and it might look a bit odd. I will just make sure i put scrim tape around all of the joints.

I don't think scrim will be enough. Stone masonry and plasterboard on softwood behave differently in thermal and moisture terms - dissimilar materials.
I think you'll need some kind of 'false architrave' to cover the joins, but I may be wrong!

 

[baldkev]

I agree with woody in that the stud will possibly shrink and expand etc, leaving a noticeable crack. Another way might be to make a feature of it.... how about building yourself an oak bookcase the same size as the opening, slide it in, fix to the stonework and if you need to, its removable with low effort? Im sure there'll be other ideas shortly

 

[Jake]

If you can find the right plasterer they will be able to do a skim with fibreglass mesh (not just scrim tape which is pretty useless) trowelled into and embedded in the skim over that whole area. I would think about using a cement board instead as well.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Find a good plasterer and ask him before you start the job?

 

[porker]

I agree use fibreglass tape on all the joins and get the whole wall glued and skimmed if possible. Almost impossible to blend in without it being visible. Done it a few times in houses myself. Any uneveness shoud be made up with bonding before skimming

 

[owen]

I use frame fixings, probably something around 120mm, then any gaps between the two outer studs and masonry I fill with expanding foam. 5x100s to screw the studs together. If you're plastering the whole wall, best way is to set the stud so the plasterboard finished flat with the existing stone, then dot and dab the whole wall over the front of that plasterboard and masonry.

 

[Jones]

Frame fixings 120 mm long will be fine the 8 mm ones usually have a 5.5mm screw which is strong enough. Space them at 400-500 centres. The best way to do it is to make the stud up on the floor with a 15mm allowance top and both sides then slide in and use folding wedges on the corners to position it then screw in place , use pack near all screw points.
I would advise using two layers of plasterboard for soundproofing ,it won't add much cost. Also ask whoever will plaster where they want the face set.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

If you can find the right plasterer they will be able to do a skim with fibreglass mesh (not just scrim tape which is pretty useless) trowelled into and embedded in the skim over that whole area. I would think about using a cement board instead as well.

I always use woven fibreglass, the paper tape is rubbish, but even fg can fail if straddling dissimilar materials.

 

[Mark18PLL]

Thanks for all of your comments, plaster came to look at the job and seemed quite pleased with what had been done.

Cheers everyone