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Garno

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I started making a tray yesterday after watching a Paul Sellers tutorial. It all looked easy enough and I decided to make one from memory and no power tools.
I glued all of the strips of wood together and left them to dry over night on top of my sash clamps. Now this is where I learnt a big lesson, I clamped the pieces but did not put a weight nor clamped any wood on it to stop any bowing. It looked very flat when I left it to dry so foolishly I thought it was flat, I guess the lessons we learn the best are when we try things out and things go slightly wrong.

Needless to say, even though the tray does look flat it has a slight bow in it. When I lay it down on one side there is no movement at all in it but when I turn it over the tray rocks a little. It looks to be out by about 0.75mm maybe a bit less. I thought about using the stable side face down but the problem then is that when I need to put the straight fences around the tray I will end up with gaps as opposed to it laying flush.

Not having a plane I have been trying to sand it flush and have a modicum of success with it, I lay it down on a flat surface and try to identify the high points, I then sand those high parts down, I think I have it down to less than 0.25mm in places and upto 0.45 in others.

Now here is my problem, the wood is joined in strips from left to right as you look at it, when I put a set square on the right hand side covering all of the strips it show it as flush with no gap until it hits the middle, then from the middle to the edge of the left hand side it shows a gap of between 0.25mm - 0.5mm. Now if I put the set square on the left hand edge going right it show a gap of appx 2mm and goes over the middle without touching it. I have been sanding this tray for a good few hours so maybe the logic part of my brain has switched off but how can I have a gap on both sides?

I hope I have explained this right, if the gap is around 0.45mm an average for the fenceing will I be able to pull it flush with screws and adhesive? or is it vital it is fully flush?

So much for an easy Job :shock:
 

Sheffield Tony

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It's not a strange problem. It is the crux of working with wood. Wood does not stay flat on its own. It's always on the move. A piece of wood, planed dead flat and left on the bench will not be precisely flat the next day - the exposed side will lose / gain moisture faster than the side touching the bench. Unless quarter-sawn, even if both sides are treated the same it will only be flat at one moisture content - wood moves more circumferentially than radially.

The structure of the furniture / whatever should hold it flat - that's the job of aprons, breadboard ends, frames around framed panels, etc. And the "fence" of your tray will probably do the job (I haven't seen the video to picture exactly what your tray looks like).
 

AndyT

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Garno":3m1c6tuo said:
I have been sanding this tray for a good few hours
Seriously, it's time you got a plane.
A few swipes here and there would have got you back on track much quicker. Sellers gives plenty of good advice on planes and planing. You'll enjoy it much more than sanding.
 

Garno

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AndyT":bn0dpjpt said:
Garno":bn0dpjpt said:
I have been sanding this tray for a good few hours
Seriously, it's time you got a plane.
A few swipes here and there would have got you back on track much quicker. Sellers gives plenty of good advice on planes and planing. You'll enjoy it much more than sanding.

You're absolutely right.
I only get a small amount to spend each month so need to be frugal to say the least, This month I purchased 3 x 48" sash clamps and a set of chisels from Screwfix (Collecting chisels on way to hospital, I go every Friday) so all being well and the wind blowing in the right direction, I will be able to buy a plane next month. No doubt I will be asking what type nearer the time :D
 

memzey

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+1. Sanding is the job I hate most in woodworking. Getting lovely thin smoother shavings spilling out of a hand plane is right at the other end of the spectrum!
 

barnettjacob

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@garno - I have a Stanley Handyman number 4 you can have, nothing special but it would do a job.

DM me your address and I'll stick it in the post.
 

Garno

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barnettjacob":4ht2j7l9 said:
@garno - I have a Stanley Handyman number 4 you can have, nothing special but it would do a job.

DM me your address and I'll stick it in the post.

I honestly have a lump in my throat, I am at a loss for word.
thank you ever so much.
I will take you up on your very kind offer
Thank you again

Gary :oops:
 

Garno

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powertools":2f0froq0 said:
That is an amazing gesture and it is help like that makes this forum the place it is.
I fully agree, words are failing me. When I read the very kind offer a lump rose in my throat and goosepimples on my arms. I am so touched by the generosity.
 

barnettjacob

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Gary, I got your message - I don't have the permissions to reply yet.
No problem at all and no payment required. I'll sharpen the blade over the weekend and get it in the post on Tuesday.
Jacob
 

manglitter

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Garno":2ct2t0v6 said:
Now here is my problem, the wood is joined in strips from left to right as you look at it, when I put a set square on the right hand side covering all of the strips it show it as flush with no gap until it hits the middle, then from the middle to the edge of the left hand side it shows a gap of between 0.25mm - 0.5mm. Now if I put the set square on the left hand edge going right it show a gap of appx 2mm and goes over the middle without touching it.

You are using two different edges to reference off here, I would first of all use the square just as a straight edge to find the high and low spots on the panel and plane these down, then use this face to reference off to make the edges square.

Hope this makes sense and helps a bit



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