Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

[Doug B]

Looks like great progress is being made, I'm glad you've got sorted with the board lifter Steve, sorry I couldn't help but after looking at the link above I'm starting to think I should buy one.

I finished 110 square metres of boarding in this room today

It's hard work on your own, so I figure the lifter will be ideal for you.

Best of luck with your progress, I'll try & get over in the not too distant future.

 

[whiskywill]

Another good way of getting moisture out of electronics is to put them in a bowl of rice. I have resurrected a couple of mobile phones and an aluminium iMac keyboard using this technique.

I have some left over from last night's Chinese takeaway and was going to give it to my chickens. I'll try this first.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Ithinkthericeneedstobeuncooked.........

 

[Owl]

IthinkyouneedanewkeyboardSteve

 

[spiderlane]

Speaking of plasterboard I've got 2 2400x1200 sheets of 12.5mm plasterboard along with a load of offcuts left over from a partition project.

Free to anyone who can collect from Coulsdon, Surrey.

Sorry about the thread hijack, as you were

Mark

 

[WibbleWobble]

Another good way of getting moisture out of electronics is to put them in a bowl of rice. I have resurrected a couple of mobile phones and an aluminium iMac keyboard using this technique.

I have some left over from last night's Chinese takeaway and was going to give it to my chickens. I'll try this first.

Yes major oversight from the techy there..... Uncooked rice otherwise things get icky and yucky very very quickly :

 

[Steve Maskery]

Sorry about the silence, chaps, on-screen keyboards are a PITA.
However, I'm no longer data-input-challenged, so I'll give you the catchup.

On Saturday, Newbie_Neil came and gave me a hand. We've not seen each other for ages, so it was good to catch up. We cut out most of the recesses for the back-boxes.

The red decoration is Ray's DNA.

We didn't quite get them all done, but on Sunday I had a date. That should be Date with a capital D. Yes, I know I should be sectioned for even contemplating the idea, but it seemed like a good one at the time. Anyway, it didn't happen, she stood me up, so back on with the scruffy clothes and I finished them off and made a cherry and ginger cake, as well as having ago at
Paul Hollywood's sausage plait off Bake Off. Mine didn't look like his, but it did help to dissipate the anger of being messed about.

On Tuesday, both Ray and Julian were here and we had managed to borrow a board-lifter. It's pretty basic, it doesn't tilt (except when you don't want it to, one of the bolts is a bit loose), but it is a great help in getting the boards up in the air. We had to cobble together a bit of an extension to reach the full height.

as we went, we installed loft insulation

At the gable end we have to find a way to support the edge of the board, so a piece of slate lath does the job admirably.

And today we have done more of the same, plus I've had a visit from a Part-P sparky who is happy to inspect our work and sign it off. Somehow he and Ray discovered a shared love of Lambrettas (although I really think it should be Lambrette) they gassed about that for half an hour. Anyway, it looks like we have an electric plan. Thanks to Doug B for the rec.

So now the walls are plasterboarded to 2.4m and ceiling is more than half boarded with OSB. The plasterboard is going to be more challenging as it is twice the weight of the OSB.

No progress tomorrow, we have a funeral to attend, followed by a Date. Will someone please Section me before I do something stupid? (Yeah, yeah, far too late, I know). Actually it's an old friend, perfectly safe......

 

[Doug B]

For gods sake don't mention ferrets to him Steve :shock:

I'm sure if he can sort Jacobs wiring your workshop shouldn't pose too many problems.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I have an interesting conundrum.

I have been given 21m of something called Unistrut. It's basically industrial T-track. I can fasten it up to my ceiling, and then I can hang anything I like from it. Lights, cameras, air-filters, anything really.

So what configuration should I use? I could put up two parallel runs, roughly 1/3 way across the room, or I could do a square, part way in all round.

What do you think would be most useful and why, please?

 

[Charlie Woody]

Not familiar with the product Steve but would you be able to use it to hook up your vac hose & cable above workbenches so they "follow" the tool without snagging on the bench edge?

 

[Steve Maskery]

That would be a very good use. My decision is about how to configure the track.
S

 

[Charlie Woody]

Won't that depend on how you layout machinery benches etc?

 

[Henning]

I have an interesting conundrum.

I have been given 21m of something called Unistrut. It's basically industrial T-track. I can fasten it up to my ceiling, and then I can hang anything I like from it. Lights, cameras, air-filters, anything really.

So what configuration should I use? I could put up two parallel runs, roughly 1/3 way across the room, or I could do a square, part way in all round.

What do you think would be most useful and why, please?

I'd say that totally depends on how you plan to lay out tools and equipment, but with that kind of space, I would probably centralise one or two Festool MFT tables and a proper workbench as well and then it would make the most sense to make a square above them to keep hoses.powercords etc. out of the way. Air filters and such can be fastened other places IMHO. Unistrut most definitely needs to be used for sliding things around in the ceiling With that layout it would be possible to use for cameras for all corners of the workshop too, wouldn't it?

Great progress Steve =D> You are lucky to have such friends.

 

[n0legs]

My brother in law has unistrut in his spray booth. Two runs, one down each side of the booth for the full length.
Over the years he's made loads of brackets and accessories for hanging and fixing stuff to be painted. Bristol levers make it quick and easy to move around.
For you Steve I would have a dedicated light bar made up for the filming you do, when not in use it could be pushed to one end of the workshop for safe keeping. Another could be sorted for the camera, maybe with a sort of "rise and fall" set up for high and low level shots.
It would be good to use it for extraction hoses and extension leads to keep the floor clear. It wouldn't take you long or much difficulty to get some good use out of it.

 

[Benchwayze]

Is this the stuff Steve?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/41mm-Slotted- ... 4adda67226

I am looking to get some of that to fabricate a castored-trolley for my planer.
It might not work, of course!



Cheers
John

 

[Steve Maskery]

That is exactly the stuff, John.

 

[n0legs]

Is this the stuff Steve?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/41mm-Slotted- ... 4adda67226

I am looking to get some of that to fabricate a castored-trolley for my planer.
It might not work, of course!



Cheers
John

There used to be a range of fittings for it as well making it really useful stuff. Brackets, hinges, plates even wheels and castors IIRC.

 

[Benchwayze]

Cheers Steve and Nolegs.

I see it comes in different depths of channel, and I think the electrical 'track' is not as deep as the stuff I found.
Looks like grown-up boys' Meccano! It might well work for my planer. Hope so. I can't weld!

 

[Deejay]

Is this the stuff Steve?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/41mm-Slotted- ... 4adda67226

I am looking to get some of that to fabricate a castored-trolley for my planer.
It might not work, of course!



Cheers
John

There used to be a range of fittings for it as well making it really useful stuff. Brackets, hinges, plates even wheels and castors IIRC.

There still is ...

http://www.unistrut.co.uk/index.php?M1= ... Assemblies

Very versatile kit.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Eric The Viking]

A couple of lengths, widely spaced, so you can have movable cross-beams of whatever sort you choose. That gives the best flexibility for lights etc.

You could also use the arrangement for a backing roll for photography (giant-scale roller blind, basically). For anything as big as furniture, you ideally need the backing at least 2/3 as far from the subject as the camera is - this allows the b/g to be out of focus for reasonable camera apertures (f5.6 and a bit wider). Simple geometry means you then need a quite big background!