brianhabby
Established Member
Steve Maskery":5uozmybd said:
Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls
- Thread starter Steve Maskery
- Start date
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Dunno whether it's relevant, but our house, which is made from a Swedish kit, has outward opening for all external doors. Possibly a scandinavian thing? Avoids any problems of dead space inside, but also inclined to surprise visitors if they are standing too close to the door outside
Steve Maskery
Established Member
NickWelford":vulac4nc said:
Not quite, there is a sticky with considerably more.
But I'm not finished yet, am I?
I wish I could charge a £ a view, it would pay for all this and give me a holiday to boot. Heigh ho.
Actually the buzz is enough.
S
Steve Maskery
Established Member
dickm":2vv79nez said:Dunno whether it's relevant, but our house, which is made from a Swedish kit, has outward opening for all external doors. Possibly a scandinavian thing? Avoids any problems of dead space inside, but also inclined to surprise visitors if they are standing too close to the door outside
Yes, I think it is a fire regulation thing in Scandinavia, IIUIC.
S
Owl
Established Member
My vote is for an outward opening door.
I would go open inwards for what it's worth. To break into it, it would take a lot more effort and make more noise- look at the effort that the police have to put into breaking one down (well on TV). All house front doors open in too for which there must be a reason.
RogerP
Established Member
I did a web search for "why do house front doors open inwards" .... pages and pages of answersmarcros":3qrc60sd said:
Glynne
Established Member
And the consensus was?
RogerP
Established Member
There isn't one. Arguments for and against both ways.Glynne":tqkt2611 said:
NickWelford
So many tools, so little to show
Apart from the hinge issue, it's much more difficult to force a door that opens outwards. Either way, a good bracing bar or two across the inside would help.
petermillard
Established Member
Outward opening, hinge bolts and keyed-alike locks - it's what I have Also, an outward-opening door allows the possibility of a roller-shutter inside if you ever feel you're becoming a target, without making your back garden look like an industrial estate.
Also, an outward-opening door allows the possibility of a roller-shutter inside if you ever feel you're becoming a target, without making your back garden look like an industrial estate.Bradshaw Joinery
Established Member
Open in is so you dont smash the doors into your guests faces when you greet them.
I like open in, can have the door open when its raining etc still without getting completely soaked all over....obviously depending on the rain direction. Just have to be careful if its your only door nothing falls behind it to jam it etc when you shut it. Hinge dogs, a few locks will be pretty secure. Open out leaves the locks exposed unless there double rebated, so is probably about the same security level.
I like open in, can have the door open when its raining etc still without getting completely soaked all over....obviously depending on the rain direction. Just have to be careful if its your only door nothing falls behind it to jam it etc when you shut it. Hinge dogs, a few locks will be pretty secure. Open out leaves the locks exposed unless there double rebated, so is probably about the same security level.
Hi Steve, big fan of your work!
I looked into the door opening options a while back. The main reasons I took away for the door opening inwards was physical security. Its easier to block your front door with your security chain, body etc when opening and trying to peer out to see if its your mother-in-law (I knew it was her, the mice were throwing themselves on the traps - L.Dawson).
Public building often open outwards for fire esacape purposes.
I would fit outward opening doors with good security hinges, hinge bolts and fit steel around the frame.
Sean
I looked into the door opening options a while back. The main reasons I took away for the door opening inwards was physical security. Its easier to block your front door with your security chain, body etc when opening and trying to peer out to see if its your mother-in-law (I knew it was her, the mice were throwing themselves on the traps - L.Dawson).
Public building often open outwards for fire esacape purposes.
I would fit outward opening doors with good security hinges, hinge bolts and fit steel around the frame.
Sean
RogerS
Established Member
You need a Poll, Steve.
I go for open outwards.
I go for open outwards.
wcndave
Established Member
Outwards is harder to break down as there is a frame behind it. Doesn't take any space in your workshop, can't get trapped inside as easily. so +1 for outwards.
As someone said front doors are inwards to prevent smashing visitors in the face, which I always thought was a shame...
As someone said front doors are inwards to prevent smashing visitors in the face, which I always thought was a shame...
Gerard Scanlan
Established Member
Why not go Japanese style and have sliding doors?
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I'm afraid that would mean changing the entire design structure.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Well I didn't get going very early today, but I've only just come in, so still a decent day's graft. But it is so much harder on my own.
I started by cutting a length of membrane. The building is square, so I can use the front as a measure:
and I stapled it into place. It would be much easier with two.
The stapler is an Aldi/Lidl special and is generally pants. Ray's never misfires, this one is hit and miss. Sometime double. Ghastly piece of kit.
The staples themselves will not be very robust if it gets windy, so I have to put the laths on pretty much straight away. But I can't put the higher layers of membrane on by myself. so I've only nailed them up so far, so that the upper layers of membrane can be slid underneath.
Then it was on with the cladding I painted yesterday. I found a problem as soon as I started. The cladding fits in between the corner trims, but as the wall is not fully skinned, I couldn't fit the corner trim. So I fixed some offcuts with screws to give me the position and worked to them.
I tapped each length down with a hammer and a scrap of cladding so as not to damage the tongue. It's not easy aligning a full length, I can tell you.
This is what it will end up looking like:
I need to punch one or two nails, but most of them have set themselves. Then I can fill the holes and paint over. Does anyone have any recommendations for a suitable filler, preferably a gun-applied one? I want to be able to squirt, smooth, paint.
I wish Ray would stop faffing about with that bit of a guttering job of his.
I started by cutting a length of membrane. The building is square, so I can use the front as a measure:
and I stapled it into place. It would be much easier with two.
The stapler is an Aldi/Lidl special and is generally pants. Ray's never misfires, this one is hit and miss. Sometime double. Ghastly piece of kit.
The staples themselves will not be very robust if it gets windy, so I have to put the laths on pretty much straight away. But I can't put the higher layers of membrane on by myself. so I've only nailed them up so far, so that the upper layers of membrane can be slid underneath.
Then it was on with the cladding I painted yesterday. I found a problem as soon as I started. The cladding fits in between the corner trims, but as the wall is not fully skinned, I couldn't fit the corner trim. So I fixed some offcuts with screws to give me the position and worked to them.
I tapped each length down with a hammer and a scrap of cladding so as not to damage the tongue. It's not easy aligning a full length, I can tell you.
This is what it will end up looking like:
I need to punch one or two nails, but most of them have set themselves. Then I can fill the holes and paint over. Does anyone have any recommendations for a suitable filler, preferably a gun-applied one? I want to be able to squirt, smooth, paint.
I wish Ray would stop faffing about with that bit of a guttering job of his.
Attachments
Steve Maskery
Established Member
As I've been sitting here thinking about the day, I have realised that I have been a plonker. Not for the first time in my life admittedly, but I have today. I installed the temporary corner trim flush with the front and back of the sheathing. I should have installed it flush with the front and back of the lathing (which I have not yet installed on the front and back), so each piece of trim is 1" further in than it should be. Too late now.
But it is not the end of the world, it just means that I shall have to replace the 4x1 trim on the side walls with 5x1. I'm not sure if I can buy 5x1 sawn, I may have to rip down a couple of 6x1s. It's so frustrating that I have a perfectly excellent tablesaw that I can't use.
But it is not the end of the world, it just means that I shall have to replace the 4x1 trim on the side walls with 5x1. I'm not sure if I can buy 5x1 sawn, I may have to rip down a couple of 6x1s. It's so frustrating that I have a perfectly excellent tablesaw that I can't use.
