Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls

[Steve Maskery]

Yes, that's very good. Made me smile.

My garden is already higher than the neighbouring ones. I think that when the foundations were dug for the original garage, the log cabin and the garden pond, the soil was just spread around the rest of the garden. It also drops away quite a bit at the back.

The front of the new build is practically level with the land up to it, but by the time we get to the middle of the side, there is already several inches of exposed concrete. I plan to fill the area around with gravel, but it is too much to make the outside level all round. And as the planning permission explicitly said to take note of the height restriction, I want to make sure that I am 100% compliant. I can argue the case for the land fall, but it would be difficult to do the same for an actual structure.

S

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well as usual we didn't get done as much as we'd hoped, but at least what we have done is good.

Remember me saying that the truss ends we out by only +/- 3mm? Well I was lying through my teeth. Well not lying, exactly, I thought it was true, and indeed it is - along the front, which is where we took our datum from. Unfortunately it is not true along the back, which I hadn't realised. The fact is that these trusses are all sizes. There was a gnats whisker short of an inch difference between the shortest and longest trusses along the back. 3mm I can live with, and inch, no.

So we stringed a straight line all the way along the back to get a good line. Then I screwed my shortest track to the truss and zipped up with the saw:

We trimmed every single one, but we now have a good end. By the time we'd done that it was already lunchtime.

So the next task was to install the eave trays. These carry the rainwater off the tiles and into the guttering.

At the gable ends we have no overhangs, so a length of 4x2 does the job:

With the eave trays in place we can start with the membrane. There is a convenient ridge in the eave trays against which to align the edge of the membrane. There is quite a substantial overlap.

We need one line of roof laths to hold the membrane down along the bottom edge and to support the lower edge of the bottom row of slates, but it is the second row that is important. This needs to be straight and true no matter what shape the eaves are. Also, it might not be exactly the same as the gauge of the rest of the roof. We worked out how much overhang we wanted into the gutter and went back from there. As it happened it was almost the same as the gauge anyway, but we nailed that row of laths up to a stretched string line. We are going to use spacer blocks to up from there, in due course. The slates need to be 250mm apart.

So it now looks like this:

I need to scrounge some scrap from the truss people for some supporting blocks and get my barge boards so that we can support the lath ends before the slates go on.

 

[Graham Orm]

Looking great Steve. Keep up with the pictures, makes great viewing. Is that a flying saucer in the last one?

 

[KevM]

I was struck by the lack of consensus in TV aerial alignment - missed the UFO!

 

[Steve Maskery]

LOL!
The ones to the right are pointing towards Watnall. I forget the other transmitter that serves this area. As I don't have a TV it makes no odds to me. Had the TV Licensing Mafia round yesterday. I was out. They put a note through the door along the lines of We'll Be Back...

I hope the UFO is just a bird, at least I hope it's not muck in my camera.

S

 

[Halo Jones]

Looking great! It will feel like a proper structure when you get a lid on!

Did I miss why there is no sarking boards, plywood or other going onto the trusses before the membrane etc? At an intuitive level only I always thought this really strengthened the structure. Also, how do you walk on the roof without worrying about where to put your feet?

H.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Good q's.
Well it is not required and Ray reckons it is a waste of money and effort. There will be OSB on the sloping bits on the inside, so that will give massive bracing.

As to how you get on the roof, I'm hoping that Ray knows what he is doing...
S

 

[paul-c]

LOL!
The ones to the right are pointing towards Watnall. I forget the other transmitter that serves this area. As I don't have a TV it makes no odds to me. Had the TV Licensing Mafia round yesterday. I was out. They put a note through the door along the lines of We'll Be Back...

S

you don't have a tv #-o

how do you manage to get your fix of the complete bandsaw (hammer)
paul-c

 

[Graham Orm]

I'd give serious thought to security re the roof Steve. If all they need to do is lift a few slates off they'll be in in no time.

 

[Baldhead]

I'm loving this WIP Steve, it's taking my mind of other things I'm having to endure at the moment, can I be the first to buy the first video you shoot in the new shop?

Baldhead

 

[Lons]

Did I miss why there is no sarking boards, plywood or other going onto the trusses before the membrane etc? At an intuitive level only I always thought this really strengthened the structure. Also, how do you walk on the roof without worrying about where to put your feet? H.

I'd give serious thought to security re the roof Steve. If all they need to do is lift a few slates off they'll be in in no time.

I made those points a while back which is why I always fit OSB.
False economy not to IMHO

Bob

 

[monkeybiter]

I've been on my tiled roof a few times and it's just that; tiles on battens on joists. And I reckon from some of the photo's I must be nearly as heavy as Steve. No issues whatsoever.

I can't help saying; from the write-up you're putting an awful lot of work into getting the tiles on. Admittedly I clearly don't have all the background knowledge that you do, but mine went on joist+felt+batten+tile nice and quick and very satisfying, and my WS is still bone dry after several years. I'll do my best to keep my gob shut when you get as far as fixing the tiles and how many tiles need a nail etc.

However; as I often say, to anyone that will listen, I don't want to do the job twice, so I might as well do it right first time, so hats off to you for doing a top job.

 

[Lons]

The "where do you put your feet" issue is more applicable to during the fixing of the slates/tiles. It is much safer and a lot quicker so whilst the speed isn't a problem for Steve, for me where time is money, it more than pays for the extra materials, is a better job and vastly reduces the risk of accidents and the consequences to a small company. You can't put your foot through OSB but do so on felt / synthetic material and you're likely to come a cropper.

As far as security is concerned. I could get through a normal slate or tiled roof in minutes if I wanted to and could do so quietly. If OSB is fitted it would take much longer and be noisier so the little ******** would go somewhere else or risk being caught.

More of an issue at single storey height for security but for safety even more important at 2 storey levels.

Steve is doing nothing wrong whatsoever, just my choice and opinion to take or leave. I certainly didn't think twice about using it on my own extensions.

cheers
Bob

 

[Steve Maskery]

Same old same old, today.
Ray's been doing orang-utan impressions and I've been gophering. I think I've had a bit too much sun, actually, not feeling very good right now. I think a cold bath is in order.

Here are a few pictures.

How on earth does this fit?

The view is improving daily:

The problem I now have is that Ray is expecting a delivery of scaffolding to paint his own house, so that will have to be his priority. But he says he's happy to paint in the morning and then come and work here in the afternoon and evening, at least until I'm weathertight. And there are things I can do now on my own, or at least without needing Ray.

I'm happy with the progress.

 

[Alder]

Re moving the RSJ.
If you can your hand on some short lengths of pipe or even round timbers you can roll it out without lifting it. Place one roller under the steel and then Merely moving the back pipe/wood to the front will be enough. Be carefully if going down hill in case the RSJ runs away.
Russell

 

[Steve Maskery]

Erm.....

 

[dc_ni]

Re moving the RSJ.
If you can your hand on some short lengths of pipe or even round timbers you can roll it out without lifting it. Place one roller under the steel and then Merely moving the back pipe/wood to the front will be enough. Be carefully if going down hill in case the RSJ runs away.
Russell

That boat sailed a long time ago........

 

[NiceJohn]

Well all I can say for my first post is - astounding. A fantastic project and a fine example of friends and associates working together. I actually registered so I could follow this theme properly.

Many thanks for all the photographs and narrative. I look forward to the next edition.

John

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi John, you are not far away, come over and get your hands dirty!

Steve

 

[AES]

REALLY enjoying this Steve, as are so many others, clearly. Wish I was a bit nearer- but will wait until the work's almost done -):

Thanks for posting

All the best
AES