Startrite TA165 Tidy up - Part 2

[diyfiesta]

Hi (again),

I've got a fairly decent condition Startrite TA165 and want to do a sympathetic refurb - looking for some advice from this fine forum. I don't want to charge in so have a few questions that will hopefully avoid some mistakes. I thought I'd try and limit 1 question to 1 thread (hence "part 2"), hope thats ok.

My positive stop pin (9 in the diagram below) looks like it engaged (pushed in). I seem to remember that this should be protruding, is that right? I can't quite get the blade to 90 degrees and am wondering if its because this pin is stopping the tilt prematurely. What should this pin / screw be doing - should it be protruding and how do I get it back out!? Sounds like a silly question but it doesn't want to move with gentle (screw driver) persuasion and I want to get some advice before I try to force the issue!

Thanks again

 

[Distinterior]

That "pin" ( item 9), should protrude when the blade is at 0 degrees. It's designed to pop out and it's supposed to act as a stop against item 17.
They can get a bit stiff and the spring ( item 7,8) is supposed to push it out. Rust and sawdust doesn't help and my guess is it just wants cleaning and lubricating with a dry lubricant of some sort ( no oil or grease...!) Adjustment of the pin setting, is by means of item 4,5.

Item 17 is held in place with a little grubscrew ( item 11) and, if I remember correctly, can be located in a couple of different positions, so make sure it's in the correct position and not preventing the tilt mechanism from it's full arc of travel.

 

[diyfiesta]

Thanks! To check then, the screw is likely stuck in the “in” position and needs to pop out with the tilt (not with a screw driver)?

I think I’m going to have to take the top off (which I’ve been avoiding, in order to do all that!)

Ps: is a silicon lube (wd40”specialist”) ok for the job? Same principle to live all the internal mech? I assume otherwise the saw dust will stick and clog?

thanks again

 

[Distinterior]

I think the screwdriver slot in the end of item 9, just allows you the ability to rotate it occasionally if, as in your case, it gets a bit stiff.
If you have wound the handle far enough to the point where the pin should have popped out, ...just try tweaking the screwdriver slot back & forth and see if it's trying to pop out.

Silicone spray/ dry lubricant can be used on the internal working parts, but avoid using it anywhere that is likely to come in contact with any wood you are cutting.....It can potentially ruin any finish you may be wanting to apply.

Removing & refitting the cast iron top isn't too much of a daunting task....Just find a way of supporting the motor and trunnion assembly whilst the top is off as it's a real heavy lump to just be left hanging on the sheet metal of the front casing !!!

Edit.
Here is a picture I've just found that shows a saw in the middle of being rebuilt.....
You can see the strong strop and bit of 3" x 2" braced across the top of the frame to carry the weight of the motor and trunnion assembly.

 

[diyfiesta]

Thanks, by way of an update, I’ve taken the top off(!) and am taking a closer look…

(I’ve got it chocked you from underneath but will use the strap idea)

 

[diyfiesta]

Thanks for the tips.

I had the lid off and cleaned everything up. Found more oddities(?) like the bolts holding the top on we’re WW (that took some figuring out and some hit and miss purchasing 5/16” to 1/4” sockets to fit - damn you 13.335mm AF nuts!).

I freed the pin but had most success when I pushed the motor in (from right to left) when trying to support it. The thread coming out of the tilt handle now has a good half inch more exposed and I get a more positive “pushing” against the pin when a 0° (popping it out). I get close to 90° so am happy for now until I get a new blade in and a few more bits sorted (like the saw isn’t quiet 90 to the mitre slots atm).

Thanks again @Distinterior