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General Workshop Discussion
General Woodworking
Startrite 352 bandsaw advice please
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<blockquote data-quote="Fitzroy" data-source="post: 1575929" data-attributes="member: 16532"><p>Morning, £48 ouch! Larger pully setting for wood as you want the faster speed. The Lower thrust rod should be adjustable, but has less movement space than the upper. The thrust rod has a carbide wear tip, but you can trim a bit of the back end to shorten it. The thrust rods are another expensive replacement for original parts but i bought a length of 10mm solid carbide rod from eBay for £20 that i cut (with a grinder disk) the lower and upper rods from. </p><p></p><p>There are lots of set up videos which you should go and watch, search for Steve Maskery (formally of this parish) on youtube, or Alex Snodgrass. Steve does an excellent set of videos on getting the most from your bandsaw which are well worth the money.</p><p></p><p>My personal set up approach is below (warning I'm no expert but it works for me)</p><p>- De-tension and remove old blade.</p><p>- Check tyres are clear of debris/build-up</p><p>- Back off blade guides and guide rods</p><p>- Install new blade and pretension</p><p>- Adjust tracking to bring the blade to correct position (there is lots of debate on best position) I aim to have the teeth of the blade just ahead of the mid point on the tyre</p><p>- Adjust tension to final setting, turn the wheels a good few times to ensure the blade is settled in its final position, adjust any tracking as required.</p><p>- Check that the table slots are parallel to the blade, adjust the table as required (I've struggled with this as the amount of adjustment is limited)</p><p>- Check the blade is perpendicular to the table and adjust the 0° table stop if required</p><p>- Set the upper thrust rod to be a hair behind the blade so it is not touching when the blade is unloaded</p><p>- Set the lower thrust rod similarly</p><p>- Set the upper blade guides to be fractionally off the blade (see Deema's post on bandsaw guides to learn their purpose), and front edge of guides just behind the gullet of the blade, when loaded.</p><p>- Set the lower blade guides similarly.</p><p>- run up the machine, recycle on above if blade rubs etc.</p><p></p><p>One thing I've definitely noticed is that once I've used a blade for cutting curves it's straight cutting performance deteriorates. So I tend to keep blade for when I want to be cutting accurate straights.</p><p></p><p>Fitz.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fitzroy, post: 1575929, member: 16532"] Morning, £48 ouch! Larger pully setting for wood as you want the faster speed. The Lower thrust rod should be adjustable, but has less movement space than the upper. The thrust rod has a carbide wear tip, but you can trim a bit of the back end to shorten it. The thrust rods are another expensive replacement for original parts but i bought a length of 10mm solid carbide rod from eBay for £20 that i cut (with a grinder disk) the lower and upper rods from. There are lots of set up videos which you should go and watch, search for Steve Maskery (formally of this parish) on youtube, or Alex Snodgrass. Steve does an excellent set of videos on getting the most from your bandsaw which are well worth the money. My personal set up approach is below (warning I'm no expert but it works for me) - De-tension and remove old blade. - Check tyres are clear of debris/build-up - Back off blade guides and guide rods - Install new blade and pretension - Adjust tracking to bring the blade to correct position (there is lots of debate on best position) I aim to have the teeth of the blade just ahead of the mid point on the tyre - Adjust tension to final setting, turn the wheels a good few times to ensure the blade is settled in its final position, adjust any tracking as required. - Check that the table slots are parallel to the blade, adjust the table as required (I've struggled with this as the amount of adjustment is limited) - Check the blade is perpendicular to the table and adjust the 0° table stop if required - Set the upper thrust rod to be a hair behind the blade so it is not touching when the blade is unloaded - Set the lower thrust rod similarly - Set the upper blade guides to be fractionally off the blade (see Deema's post on bandsaw guides to learn their purpose), and front edge of guides just behind the gullet of the blade, when loaded. - Set the lower blade guides similarly. - run up the machine, recycle on above if blade rubs etc. One thing I've definitely noticed is that once I've used a blade for cutting curves it's straight cutting performance deteriorates. So I tend to keep blade for when I want to be cutting accurate straights. Fitz. [/QUOTE]
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General Workshop Discussion
General Woodworking
Startrite 352 bandsaw advice please
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