Stanley Chisels

[Argus]

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I have a few of those old Stanley chisels from the 60s - the ones with the black plastic handles.

Over the years they have done a lot of work and been relegated to being old tools for bashing things with. The handles are now quite ropey and de-laminating in places but the steel isn't too bad, so the thought occured to me that I may re-handle them in wood.

As it's probably moulded on, is there a straightforward method of getting the plastic handles off the tangs without a fight?


Any help is appreciated

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[Jamesc]

Have a look at this thread https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/marples-stanley-chisel-challenge-t55834.html

When I did mine I think I used the bandsaw with an old fine tooth blade in it to get rid of most of the plastic followed by a stanley knife and wire bush in the grinder. Probably not the best method but it worked for me.

Regards

James

 

[Argus]

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Thanks, James.

Now that you have drawn my attention to it I seem to recall that thread and it went on for a while, but condeesto seems to have done what I'm after with an old Marples, so it can be done. I'll work through the pages and see what comes up.

I did think that they may come off by sawing longitudinally down the handle almost to the tang then splitting it with a wedge......

I do happen to have a knackered blade in the band saw, due for a change, so it may have one last task.....

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[Dangermouse]

I've done this with a couple of chisels, the way i get them off is to put them in the freezer overnight and then belt the handle with a lump hammer, rested on a piece of iron. The handle just breaks like glass, or at least the couple I tried did. If you try this wear eye protection or a face visor, as sharp pieces fly about.

 

[Apache_sim]

Not that I have ever tried it but would heat expand the handles sufficiently to knock them off --- Gas mark 4 for 10 mins or so... also plunge the blade into ice cold water or use freeze spray.

 

[AndyT]

I would steer clear of any extremes of heat or cold on the blade - the good point of these chisels is the quality of the steel and you don't want to spoil the temper of it.

Then again, if the handle won't come off easily, maybe it doesn't really need replacing!

 

[Jacob]

They'd be Stanley 5001s - top class chisels and about the best you could buy back then - and as good as anything you can buy now come to think. The blue handles ones were also good, but cheaper.

 

[MickCheese]

I have a good number of the Stanley 5001s. All mine have a white washer in the handle. I have seen some with a yellow washer, does anyone know what these are?

Mick

 

[SVB]

I have a good number of the Stanley 5001s. All mine have a white washer in the handle. I have seen some with a yellow washer, does anyone know what these are?

Mick

Dirty???? :roll:

 

[jimi43]

Getting the handles off is easy once you do the first one. The key is to saw it with a bog standard hacksaw about an inch above the white or yellow washer....and stop when you hit the steel tang. Move around 90 degrees and cut again...and again and finally the last quadrant. Snap of the larger portion of the handle which will leave the tang slightly exposed and the remaining plastic on the rest.

With the flat part of the chisel clamped tightly...get some vise grips and grip the remaining plastic tightly and twist off.

Jim

 

[MickCheese]

I think the white collars are 5001's and the yellow ones 5002's.

Anyone know for sure?

Mick

 

[Argus]

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Well, the handles are off and new ones on, made of some Apple wood that I have had in my odds and sods box for donkey’s years. Good, clear Apple makes terrific handles and turns very well.

On the reasoning that they could be cut down and the end twisted off, (according to Jimi’s post) I reasoned that they are a free fit, not moulded onto a blob of molten plastic. In short, it turns out that they are held in place by friction in a tight hole and a couple of facets, machine-clenched into the metal when hot to prevent rotating in the handle.

So, with the blades secured facing upwards in a vice, I took an old flogging-screwdriver, a hammer and knocked them off. They made more of a show of resistances than conventional tapered tang chisels because these Stanley tangs are a 3/8” parallel bar, 1 ½” long.

Once I had turned a set of set of wooden handles with a set of 3/8” holes, they are all back together and ready for work again.

I don't know about the significance of the coloured washers. They turned out to be just a bit of round, white plastic stuck on the end of the tang.

Thanks to all for the interesting replies.

 

[xy mosian]

I think the white collars are 5001's and the yellow ones 5002's.

Anyone know for sure?

Mick

Sorry Mick, I have just looked. I started out buying the 5001's but had to carry one buying 5002's shortly after they came out, I think, in the late sixties early seventies. Both have white plastic washers. Perhaps they ran out of white tiddly winks one day.

xy

 

[Harbo]

My father bought a set of black handled 5001's and I later bought some 5002's but the handles were blue.
Will have a look at the thin ring when I get back?

Rod

 

[awkwood]

The early 5001 had the yellow washers and the blades were ground but weren't polished
The later ones have white washers and the blade polished

Both very good chisels, im sure the original advert read that the steel was E N ball bearing grade steel. A higher graden than used for the blue handle 5002

 

[MickCheese]

Both have white plastic washers. Perhaps they ran out of white tiddly winks one day.

xy

I think you've cracked it!

I really like my 5001s. These are often my goto chisels. I have a set of Lie Nielsens and I don't like to admit it but they are not hundreds of pounds better by any stretch of the imagination than my Stanley's.

Mick