Spraying: Absolute beginner

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beech1948

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The LOML wanted me to build some replacement doors for a kitchen in our new ( to us) house. The old kitchen is a dark, heavy old "oak" style doors with too much beading/moulding/panel decoration but with perfectly good cabinets and drawers behind them. Its only 18 months old.

I have made 22 doors, 12 drawer fronts in a more modern plainer Shaker style. The usual MR-MDF frames and panels.

I want to spray them but know NOTHING about spray equipment or technique.

So the questions that currently plague my waking hours are:-

1) What spray kit to buy. Fuji or Earlex or something else. Is an Earlex 5000 good enough and "man" enough or is the only choice Fuji or Apollo. I'm a pro cabinet maker but very very seldom get involved with painted finishes. Its my first time using MDF as well. I feel like a child all over again.

2) I don't want to have a compressor so a turbine would be great.

3) What spray gun(s) do I need. The choice of amateur to pro types is baffling and the price range is equally baffling being from £50 to £600. Do I need to buy a range of jets if so what range.

4) What types of paint would I best use..??

I currently know now't. So some advice and guidance from the knowledgeable people around here would be much appreciated.

Oh, time frame to do something would be in the next 2 weeks. I've got to earn some brownie points from somewhere pre Christmas.

regards
Alan
 
I'm only one step ahead of you having done my first spray job with water based varnish.

I was reasonably happy with the results and used a Performance Power Pro HVLP spray gun - I came from B&Q a few years back for around £50 including the turbine and everything you need.
I don't know if they are still sold by B&Q and I've not looked at their website as it's so poor.

hth

Bob
 
You say you don't want a compressor. It is a very useful piece of kit.
Nail/staple guns, air drills etc as well as spraying.
Willy.
 
woodstainwilly":6i1buc9b said:
You say you don't want a compressor. It is a very useful piece of kit.
Nail/staple guns, air drills etc as well as spraying.
Willy.

Plus.....................

Blowing up car / van / trailer / wheelbarrow tyres etc. and great for blasting out sawdust from machinery and power tools - i wouldn't be without mine. (got the spray guns but never used them yet :lol: )

Bob
 
Yes I'm sure a compressor would be beneficial but I am also told that to effectively use a compressor it needs to put out mega cfm to drive a spray gun. Issues then arise about spray bounce back etc etc so I do not want to go there at the moment.

So back towards turbine solutions maybe ?
Alan
 
studders":1vym0rfy said:
9fingers":1vym0rfy said:
I came from B&Q a few years back for around £50

hth

Bob

That's very reasonable Bob, do they have any more of you in stock? :)

Sorry Steve - I have no idea. I don't tend to go in those places unless I'm desperate.


Bob
 
I think for occasional use, IE not all day long, production work, a turbine type system is preferable in your situation and, dependant on which make/model, will give very good results.
Some moons ago I did a stint in car restoration and repairs, well nearly ten years, and used both types, HVLP and Compressor.
Back then the only paint generally available was Cellulose based, no 2 Pack or Water Based, so my advice might be based on out of date info.
I used an Apollo for HVLP and found it very good, though back then it wasn't cheap at almost £200, no idea what they cost now. Can't comment on the Fuji as I've never used one.
You can get guns that will run off a 2HP compressor though I've not used one so can't say whether they are any good or not.
 
I am about to start in the coming weeks myself spraying some 17 doors, and about 12 drawers plus end haffits and wall linings, kickers, and bits and pieces.

Water coatings have come in since I was originally looking so it’s been a long time coming for me, but have recently spoken with ‘ISF Coatings’ who are extremely helpful. I am alternating between their 2 part AC 2 Acid Cat System (my original choice as used by the trade) or their water borne lacquer. With both they are sprayed at about 40 -50 psi so not blasting out lots of overspray like in car spraying. Touch dry in about 10 -15 -20 minutes and re-coatable in 60 minutes. You would need to check the data sheets. Cut /routed MDF edges sealed with brushed-on reduced pva to seal. De-nib at all stages. One or more primer coats on the MDF cut edges and 1 or 2 finishing coats. Both types of coatings are extensively used in the trade. The water borne is not so durable but in your own domestic situation may not be a problem, ie not commercial.

With the water borne you can spray straight from the tin unless some slight thinning is necessary to suit your gun. It does not need measuring cups, viscosity cups. etc, so, much more user friendly without lots of additional bits and pieces. Comes clear or colour matched in 5 lt tins.

The AC 2 is now a low odour with reduced solvents in it so much more user friendly, ie personal masks, etc. AC 2 needs to be mixed with catalyst so requires additional paraphernalia, of mixing cups, gun cleaner, possibly thinners, and so on. Comes in 1 lt plus tins.

Coverage about 10 (AC2) – 18 (water/b) sg m /lt at the upper end which is probably nearer to what coverage you would achieve.

I have an air compressor and so do not know about turbine systems. As an alternative you could roll or lay-on the coatings using these foam pads. Believe good results are obtained. Tac rags essentail of course.

So not yet stared but this may be of help to you. I still have a bit dusty cutting work to do before cleaning the garage out for spraying everything in a oner. DEcision time soon for me. Completion probably after Christmas but temperature for the waterborne may need to be watched by then.

Good luck.
 
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