Spirit stain application help

[=Adam=]

Hi guys,

I bought some spirit stain and some burnishing cream in the show yesterday, so when I got home I turned a little bowl out of tulip wood (which broke when I parted it off, that's another story), but I tried using the spirit stain on the inside and it didn't turn out very well at all!

I sanded the wood to 600, wiped all of the dust off, applied a small amount of the stain to a paper towel and rubbed it in with the lathe stationary. The stain didn't spread as easily as I thought it would, it seemed to just soak in to one area and I ended up having one blob of stain.

Now I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, do I need to put loads on the paper towel, should I use something other than a paper towel (kitchen roll is what I'm using), should i put it on when it is spinning?

Also with regards to the burnishing cream, do I apply this after sanding sealer and before friction polish?

Sorry for all of the questions!

Cheers

Adam

 

[CHJ]

Normally staining is done with the piece spinning, applied with light pressure and a rapid movement across the surface you wish to tint, dwell time and number of passes being used as a means of controlling the density/intensity/blend of the colour.
Alternately flood an area with a well soaked rag or brush for maximum intensity, but don't expect to get a constant even shade over a given surface if the wood density varies across your piece.


Burnishing cream is only used on a finished sealed or lacquered surface to remove very minor blemishes and increase the gloss level.
Do not use it between coats of finishing media as it can restrict adhesion.

With finishes such a melamine enhanced lacquers you need to make sure that they are cured full depth before you try and burnish else you may just break though and remove the surface skin.

 

[shaver01]

Applying stain you need to keep a wet edge, you can't apply a small amount. If you need a lighter hue dilute some stain with thinners.

Burnishing cream, use once the piece is completely finished, and final finish has been left to dry for at least 24hrs. Use only on hard lacquer type finishes, and on a smooth surface, if there is any open grain it will collect all the abrasive cream and it looks almost as if you have limed the work.

 

[henton49er]

To get an even application of spirit stain, you can also apply by airbrush, either with the piece stationary or (preferably) turning in the lathe. I do this with the spirit stain neat or diluted with about 20% of thinners. You can also merge colours with this method.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

I use an airbrush too but if you don't have one, a sponge or one of those sponge brushes are both better than a cloth.

 

[Hesh]

Adam,
I remember watching a demo once where it was pointed out that a paper or kitchen towel is designed to soak up fluid and when you think about it this may be why they are not the best thing to use with a stain. I use safety cloth which I've found much better. As for the burnishing cream I use it once I've applied a couple of coats of either melamine or acrylic sealer over the colour.

Steve

 

[=Adam=]

Thanks guys!

Looking back at my original post I appreciate that it wasn't well written, so I would like to say thanks to all that have taken the time to respond!

With regards to a foam brush, would I brush it on with the lathe turning or have the piece stationary? I may look at getting some cheap (hardly absorbent) toilet paper and give that a try as the turners cloths seem rather expensive, however if all else fails I will get some!

Cheers guys!

 

[nev]

you can also use a small paintbrush, the arty/ model making type if its smallish areas you wish to cover.

 

[paul johnson]

Hi Adam, I recently had the pleasure of watching Mark Raby professional wood finisher at our club.
This fella sure knows how to finish wood , I've taken a lot from his demo and can say what difference in my work.
If you google him you can get all the tips and hints you need any problems let me know and I will try and help you more.

Paul

 

[Robbo3]

Hi Adam, I recently had the pleasure of watching Mark Raby professional wood finisher at our club.
This fella sure knows how to finish wood , I've taken a lot from his demo and can say what difference in my work.
If you google him you can get all the tips and hints you need any problems let me know and I will try and help you more.
Paul

Seconded. I've seen him twice now.
Also see if you can get hold of his Finishing & Colouring DVD. Explains everything in easily understandable terms & last for 1hr 50minutes.

 

[=Adam=]

It was actually mark raby that was there doing the demo haha! That's who I bought the stain and various other bits and bobs from.

I shall give it a google now

 

[paul johnson]

Adam, mark is a top guy he gave us a 3 hour demo and went into a bit more depth. I also watched his demo at the botanic gardens.

 

[=Adam=]

Hi paul!

Are you part of the Pembroke woodturning club? I saw he did a demo there.

Has he got any videos on YouTube of how to do it? I found him on facebook so I think I will write to him later to see if he can give me some tips

Cheers guys!

 

[paul johnson]

Yes Mark I'm a member of Pembrokeshire woodturners, I don't think he got videos on you tube etc but you can purchase a DVD from him. I bought my finishing kit of him and have made contact with him several times for advice
And he is always willing to help, I may seem to be plugging him but you can only speak as you find. A couple of us from our club has booked him for a days demo.
Regards Paul