Spindle Moulder Groovers V Wobble Saw
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blackrodd
Established Member
All the above have their place in machining, A drip groove in a cill making T&G, etc.
Safety has its place too, what and how you are machining.
If you're starting out, A good start would be the wobble saw, then buy what you need, as you need it.
Rodders
Safety has its place too, what and how you are machining.
If you're starting out, A good start would be the wobble saw, then buy what you need, as you need it.
Rodders
An Omas wobble saw will do most things, adjustment can be fiddly if your looking for micron adjustment.....which is only needed I've found with grooving fur a weather bar. Downside can be that the bottom of the groove can be rough and is slightly convex.
I started out with a wobble saw and added groovers as required. I use shimmed groovers, it's my preference. They don't get used that much, as I don't use the spindle much for making tenons. I steered away from solid tips as replaceable means I always can replace a chipped cutter when it finds the metal in a tree. Barbed wire, shrapnel etc.
I started out with a wobble saw and added groovers as required. I use shimmed groovers, it's my preference. They don't get used that much, as I don't use the spindle much for making tenons. I steered away from solid tips as replaceable means I always can replace a chipped cutter when it finds the metal in a tree. Barbed wire, shrapnel etc.
It depends on the size grooves you want cut. Wobble saw is a great way to start and not spend too much ££, they also cover quite a wide range. There are groovers with shims and some really nice 'dial a size' groovers available with disposable tips, but they are quite expensive. The disposable tip tools can run at higher rpm than a wobble saw.... This will give a better finish. The disposable tip tools also have side cutting spurs which give a cleaner finish as they incorporate a side shear angle. On some of the split groovers with disposable tips you can use the separate halves back to back in order to cut small tenons.
Quite a lot to consider!
Cheers
http://scosarg.com
Quite a lot to consider!
Cheers
http://scosarg.com
I have a wobble saw which has served for years recently I bought a shim adjustable groover. The difference is the quality of finish. If you need high quality finish without jagged edges or working veneered board I would get the replaceable tipped either shim adjustable or dial in groover. Further the wobble saw was always a trial and error approach to width and could take several adjustments to get the right width. I also liked the lack of vibration compared to the wobble saw.
" can replace a chipped cutter when it finds the metal in a tree. Barbed wire, shrapnel etc. " I thought about that a bit, with managed woodland, commercial plantations. If ones timber is sourced from these, then bits of metal might be very rare. Unless they raise pheasants in the woodland and shoot them I don't think they do that though In the UK we have Forestry Commission land, people during the season are allowed to shoot deer but thats not shotguns blasting birds to bits, spewing pellets all through the trees.deema":7wf4b2dq said:
Only used a wobble saw and it's great apart from the things deema mentions. It's fiddly to adjust (the measurements on the cutter are inaccurate by nearly a mm) and the unevenness of the bottom of the groove is a nuisance.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Wobble saws don't vibrate (unless there's something wrong with them). Mine doesn't do jagged edges either but I've never tried it on veneered board. Mine is also spot on with the measurements - it's marked from 1/16" to 3/4" in 1/16" increments. It was only £50 but a few years ago now.PAC1":1093buzf said:
Bottom of the groove is perfect too but they are usually out of sight anyway. Technically it has a slight radius equal to the radius of the cutter - though I'm told that some are fine set to give zero radius mid range but this seems totally unnecessary.
It can be a bit scary at first as it's a big toothy bit of metal spinning fast but in fact it's very safe and easy to use with no risk of kick back or anything. Two push sticks essential.
Phil Walker@Appleby
Established Member
Application is the first thing to consider, look at what jobs you are wanting to do with the tools. Having worked in joinery/machine shops for most of my life I can give you my honest opinion, and that is I would stay clear of wobble saws for grooving, as said above they do not leave a clean edge the same as groover's because they are a saw blade at the end of the day. Don't get me wrong in the right application they are great but only for something that is not going to be seen.
You will not go wrong with a replaceable tipped groover and there are so many out there on the market and range from sets like 4-15mm (3 piece) or 14-28 (2 piece) to name a couple.
Hope this helps and good luck.
You will not go wrong with a replaceable tipped groover and there are so many out there on the market and range from sets like 4-15mm (3 piece) or 14-28 (2 piece) to name a couple.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
There's a bit of a prejudice against wobble saws - probably because attempts to use an ordinary saw blade off set with "wobble" washer were not very good. But a modern WS is a purpose made unit, a very different thing
Wobble saws (on a spindle) are cheap, very easy to set up and adjust to size.
No they aren't just saw blades they are designed for the job - well mine is, a £50 unbranded from local saw doctor. It has just 7 very pointed steeply raked teeth and does a very clean cut without tear out.
No they don't vibrate or "wobble" in any sense but they do hum quietly as they displace a lot of air.
They are very safe to use as long as you keep your fingers well away (TWO PUSH STICKS) - as they spin freely in a wide slot there is just about zero risk of kick back.
I only use mine for slots - I haven't tried it across the grain and it probably wouldn't be too good but I don't know.
Whatever other kit you have a wobble saw is a number one essential along with a rebate block.
Wobble saws (on a spindle) are cheap, very easy to set up and adjust to size.
No they aren't just saw blades they are designed for the job - well mine is, a £50 unbranded from local saw doctor. It has just 7 very pointed steeply raked teeth and does a very clean cut without tear out.
No they don't vibrate or "wobble" in any sense but they do hum quietly as they displace a lot of air.
They are very safe to use as long as you keep your fingers well away (TWO PUSH STICKS) - as they spin freely in a wide slot there is just about zero risk of kick back.
I only use mine for slots - I haven't tried it across the grain and it probably wouldn't be too good but I don't know.
Whatever other kit you have a wobble saw is a number one essential along with a rebate block.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Yep.ColeyS1":3ptjuivh said:
Another big plus of the wobble saw is infinite fine adjustment - you can set it as precisely as you want, between the limits, for a loose or tight fit depending on what you want. Mine works between 3/16" and 5/8". No great depth of cut - about 1". It's for slots only.
personally I think all people who use spindles should have roller feed as standard.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
You adjust a WS with a quick flick of the screwdriver - no need to dismantle and rebuild! Or to have a box of bits, shims etc. Or to have to order the shims you can't find, and wait a week. :roll:
I have both, although the wobble saw I seldom use.
Fixed width groovers are quite inexpensive ( ~20 Euros a piece) and the people who sharpen my saw blades
take care of them also.
A single cutter for grooves and two (with adequate spacers) for tenons.
Set up time is much shorter, at least than with the wobble saw I have.
Fixed width groovers are quite inexpensive ( ~20 Euros a piece) and the people who sharpen my saw blades
take care of them also.
A single cutter for grooves and two (with adequate spacers) for tenons.
Set up time is much shorter, at least than with the wobble saw I have.
Phil Walker@Appleby
Established Member
At the end of the day you've got to decide what's best for you, people will sway one way and the other. I would say look at what different applications you've got to do and then maybe post on here again to see what the forum can suggest.
