very good info here on setup and useI have acquired a kitty 629 spindle moulder, currently in storage whilst the workshop is finished, however I am beginning to regret the purchase as I think it is going to be very expensive for tooling compared to a router table, and a very steep learning curve on using and setting up safely.
I've used both types, and now use the Euro blocks 99% of the time. What Jacob says about what you do in your own workshop is your own affair is true... but if you have an accident using non safety blocks, I don't think any insurance would pay out- if you have any! Happy to be corrected on that, but that's my understanding.Yes it is a bit!
The two blocks you've got would break HSE rules in the workplace, but what you do on your own in your workshop is nobody else business. I use blocks just like these two as well as more modern and safer ones. The lower one is safer as the cutters are held in by the serrations (if you have the rest of the mechanism not in the photo) but doesn't have limiters and could whip a finger off. So you'd need to learn as much as you can first and use all safety measures , basically guards and most importantly, two push sticks and great caution.
50mm new block might not retract all the way into the well and would limit smaller rebates, so you need to measure the depth.
It's a smallish machine so a whole 50 x 12.5 mm rebate may need two passes anyway
Machine looks good!
You might be right but I think the TS is much more dangerous and people are very lax with them.I've used both types, and now use the Euro blocks 99% of the time. What Jacob says about what you do in your own workshop is your own affair is true... but if you have an accident using non safety blocks, I don't think any insurance would pay out- if you have any! Happy to be corrected on that, but that's my understanding.
I bought the Roy Sutton DVD many years ago and found it very valuable.very good info here on setup and use
Apparently, he lost that part of his finger to an electric sawdust blower, not the suicide blocks.As a salutary reminder of all his safety guidance, count the number of complete fingers he has..
The 2 pin Euro universal blocks aren’t as err universal as you might think.
the cutters come in various thicknesses including 4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm and I think 6mm. and they don’t fit in all blocks.
also some blocks have the pins set in further in the block and the cutter profile of some blocks doesn’t clear the block so you can’t get a full profile cut before the block starts to rub.
Personally I strongly recommend you consider getting a TCT rebate block - very handy for doing all sizes of rebates, even small tenons etc etc.
Jacob, first job this morning, measure up “the well” there’s plenty of travel into it there is a good 100mm of clear travel also “the well” is approx 150mm diameter,Thanks Jacob thats perfect, I shall mearsure the depth of travel into "the well" in the morning
You can always add a false bed if the table opening is not large or deep enough.
Scholar this was the first video I watched regarding moulders a few week ago very usefulI bought the Roy Sutton DVD many years ago and found it very valuable.
As a salutary reminder of all his safety guidance, count the number of complete fingers he has..
PS I got a power feed for the spindle moulder and that gets used for virtually everything I do with the machine - it does feel much safer (as well as producing a smoother cut).
I have the same cutter block which I has an 11/4" bore, so I use reducer collars to fit it to my 30mm spindle.
I'm told it only needs one cutter as it's almost impossible to align 2 cutters without the location (and retention) pins. This makes it suitable for cutters that I grind myself (only if I have to). I've only ever used it with one cutter and it works well, but I was only removing minimal timber.
As well as guarding and a new fence you will need to consider how you are going to hold the stock timber against the fence, both vertically and horizontally. It needs to be robust as the cutters have a tendency to push the stock away from the cutter.
As to having a range of cutter blocks, apart from the one like yours I have a rebate block, a roundover block that can take a range of radius cutters and an old euro block that doesn't have the space for limiters. These seem to cover 95% of my needs.
What size motor does it have, and what is the spindle size?
As said above, you will likely end up with a couple of blocks, or more.... so maybe buy the 40mm to oick off with, the knives and limiters are cheap etc.... and look on the bay for sets ( try kity )
Interesting stuff. Very scary and quite right too!......
Good article on old cutter blocks here:
5HP or more with 30mm or 1 1/4" spindle is more joinery size, but yours should still be useful, just slower with more passesHi Kev its not a powerful machine its only a 1.5Hp motor on a 1” spindle, bit more power than my router though funny enough there’s a Kity 429 Spindle Moulder on the bay finishing tonight I thought was cheap at the moment.
40mm block.....Hi Kev its not a powerful machine its only a 1.5Hp motor on a 1” spindle, bit more power than my router though funny enough there’s a Kity 429 Spindle Moulder on the bay finishing tonight I thought was cheap at the moment.