Spalted Beech Bowl

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Vic Perrin

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Location
Rugeley Staffs
Spalted Beech Bowl 10" x 3".
Finished with 2 coats of Danish Oil and Microcrystalline Wax
Timber from Home of Wood

Vic
 

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That's a nicely spalted bowl vic I like that well turned and chunky like your monkey ......... :lol: :lol:
regards
Bill
 
Looks like a nice fine finish for a well spalted piece. Do you firm-up the surface with sanding sealer for finish turning?
 
monkeybiter":2twmv8se said:
Looks like a nice fine finish for a well spalted piece. Do you firm-up the surface with sanding sealer for finish turning?

No Mike, the wood has been solid on all of the Spalted Beech that I have had from Homeofwood .

I don't use sanding sealer on any of the bowls that I do as I like to use an oil finish.

Vic
 
Lovely bowl ,very well turned and excellent finish ,its great to get the best from a piece of wood and you have done that .
 
thats a cracker Vic,

I bought some spalted beech from ebay from a guy and found it to be a bit soft, I couldn't get a finish on it, But i am a leaner so its nice to see your work..

I just got the latest offer from HOW . so i may get some of their beech if i have a chance of winning that holiday :D

Pat
 
That's as I thought . I once made a lectern in elm that was destined for a life of use so I finished it with Rustin's L.P. and I got left with awful blotches. I try where possible not to use the stuff (sanding sealer)and use hot water or steam to raise the grain when sanding - if it does little good, it doesn't do any harm.
 
The reason I asked the SS question in the first place is that on soft and/or variable surfaces I find a dilute solution of SS will soak in and then slightly harden the surface on drying, making finish turning/sanding easier.
I suppose I could sharpen my tools (hammer)
 
I think I remember correctly....

A few years ago during a demo at our club Mark Baker advocated sanding sealer under oil. The reasoning was that when you normally apply oil a lot of it soaks into the pores which takes too far into the wood and you end up using more oil. If you you apply thin sanding sealer first it will also soak into the pores. After a coat or 2 of sealer sand back the surface of the wood and you are left with a bare wood surface that has sealed pores. Now when you apply the oil it soaks into the wood and not the pores.
I've never tried it and I don't think this is referred to in any of his books or articles so perhaps it was something he was experimenting with at the time.
 
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