Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
The accuracy seems to bother everybody else so my comment is relevant. You are right though it doesn't bother me as a rule as I do a lot freehand without tool rest or jig etc.
Sorby Pro-Edge
- Thread starter TRITON
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Lons
Established Member
So I refer back to your earlier comment. You clearly are a lot less "picky" than many others, hope that doesn't apply to your work as well.
I sharpen a lot freehand btw and am happy enough but if others want accuracy why do you see an issue with that and try to put it down? Oh I know the answer to that already - your name is Jacob.
These are some of the shortfalls that Axminster have addressed on their machine.
On my machine the table was poorly made. Sorby replaced it once I sent them pictures of the issue where the top face was not parallel to the face where the table screws to the dog leg bracket. This meant the table was perfectly square to the belt in all planes (and the slow was parallel to the belt) when the table was set to 90 degrees but the slot moved away from being parallel as the table angle was changed to a different angle preset.
In terms of whether a disc sander, linisher (Sorby, Axminster etc.), bench grinder, oil stones, water stones, scary sharp, diamond stones, sandpaper, thick skin, ignorance etc. is best - I've enjoyed trying them all and no one method is ultimately any better or worse if it works for you. I currently use diamond plates or scary sharp depending on what mood I'm in (sad I know) but don't like oilstones because they are messy. I have used the Axminster for some time but have recently gone back to the Sorby because I have the turning tool jigs for it.
So as a response to Triton's original question, if you want to go down the linishing route, choose which jig system you want between the Sorby and Axminster set ups and go with that.
I'm interested in perhaps buying the Sorby.
But, if I understand everyone correctly, it is more suited to sharpening
turning tools than regular chisels and planes ?
Would that be correct ?
I don't do turning.
But, if I understand everyone correctly, it is more suited to sharpening
turning tools than regular chisels and planes ?
Would that be correct ?
I don't do turning.
Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
because they aren't getting it, read what they wrote. I had one myself for a year or so and agree with them.
I'll ignore your other silly comment.
Lons
Established Member
AJB Temple
Finely figured
No. It is fine for chisels and plane irons. ideal. I use mine mainly for that. Accuracy is dead on after less than 5 minutes fettling (ignore Jacob - he has a longstanding reputation for contrary trolling) and the adjustable chisel jig for £20 is worth it.
Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
I see it as not being carried away by the waves of over-enthusiasm which regularly sweep through the woodwork community and persuades them to part with lots of dosh.
I sold mine on Ebay. I was a bit worried that the buyer might find fault with it as so many others have, and ask for a refund! I made no suggestions about needing shims etc
All quiet so far!RichardG
If at first you don’t succeed have a cup of tea.
I would agree with that. I had a couple of hours free this morning before heading out so I went back and rechecked my proedge.
At 90 degrees I found the slot was 0.2mm closer on the left than right to the back plate. This could be fixed my loosening the mounting bolts and realignment.
I put a brand new belt on and sharpened a 2 inch plane blade. Here’s the result before and after a hone on a diamond plate.
so I checked the backplate and surenough it was worn (this is less than 6 months of light use).
I started to file it flat but it was taking ages so reverted to the belt sander.
And here is the result.
And the resulting plane blade.
So much improved but no way could you use it straight off the pro edge.
I also noticed the wear on the new belt.
You can feel the join going through and it’s clear that this is probably dominating the result. Perhaps after some use section this will wear off and better results obtained.
So in my conclusion.
Turning gouges - excellent and very easy.
skew chisels - very good but some issues.
Parting tools - excellent.
Chisels less than 25mm, very good but will need further work.
Plane blade - compromised. The belt isn’t really wide enough for 2 inch blades, its very sensitive to backplate wear, recommend for secondary bevel only.
Would I buy it again? Coming from a 6 inch creusen slow speed grinder and the Sorby jigs it’s a great improvement, the repeatability is really really useful. Not having to continuously flatten the stones is also great. The ability to easily switch grits is also so helpful especially when you need to quickly reshape a tool. The jigs all work but need some skill to get the best out of the tool. The alignment needs to be kept spot on and that back plate wear is a concern
So I think I would actually look again at an 8 inch grinder with diamond wheels and look for a better jig. However, I don’t think something exists so yes I would buy again.
I hope this helps and thanks to everyone else for their thoughts. Oh and please don’t turn this thread into another squabble….
AJB Temple
Finely figured
Interesting Richard. I would be having a moan to Sorby. There is no dishing on the backplate of mine, but because I use the sliding jig I tend to run chisels etc from side to side across the belt, so maybe that is the reason.
That also looks to be quite a coarse belt you have on there. It's inevitable that the belt join will be more prominent the rougher the grit. I find it barely noticeable with the Trizak belts. Agree as well that it would be better if it was wider - it's only just wide enough for my plane irons.
I've used much larger linishers on knife making courses and these are undoubtedly better, but of course a lot more expensive. All these tools have a degree of compromise and given that fact the Sorby is about as much as I would be willing to spend.
I do as it happens have a much larger belt sander in my shop (5" belts I think) but not down at the grit levels ideal for sharpening. Might look into that.
That also looks to be quite a coarse belt you have on there. It's inevitable that the belt join will be more prominent the rougher the grit. I find it barely noticeable with the Trizak belts. Agree as well that it would be better if it was wider - it's only just wide enough for my plane irons.
I've used much larger linishers on knife making courses and these are undoubtedly better, but of course a lot more expensive. All these tools have a degree of compromise and given that fact the Sorby is about as much as I would be willing to spend.
I do as it happens have a much larger belt sander in my shop (5" belts I think) but not down at the grit levels ideal for sharpening. Might look into that.
Anthraquinone
Established Member
I totallt agree with RichardG.
Great for my turning tools - fast and accurate. A quich resharpen 2 or 3 seconds and it is done. You do not need more
Not so good for woodworking tools
Great for my turning tools - fast and accurate. A quich resharpen 2 or 3 seconds and it is done. You do not need more
Not so good for woodworking tools
transatlantic
Boom!
I find the opposite. I don't really notice the join on the 60g belt, but find it very noticable on the 120g. And it's always been like that, even with new belts (Ceramic). And yes, the belt is on the right way
Which makes sense I think. The join is always going to be the same size, no matter the grit. Lower grits are likley to disguise it more, where as higher grits will make it feel more prominent.
Imagine a 600/1200 grit belt with a join it in it. It would be rather pointless.
I only use mine for turning tools though, which I'd argue is what it's designed for (the plate on the front is mostly turning tool oriented).
RichardG
If at first you don’t succeed have a cup of tea.
It‘s funny the only advise Sorby did give me was not to slide the tool from side to side whilst grinding but to grind, lift and then move to evenly wear the belt. Some of that wear was probably down to user error when I first purchased and effectively re-profiled all my turning tools and several chisels and was pressing too hard. The back plate is only £6 so and is considered a consumable.
Its a 240 grit aluminium oxide.
I find the opposite. I don't really notice the join on the 60g belt, but find it very noticable on the 120g. And it's always been like that, even with new belts (Ceramic). And yes, the belt is on the right way
Which makes sense I think. The join is always going to be the same size, no matter the grit. Lower grits are likley to disguise it more, where as higher grits will make it feel more prominent.
Imagine a 600/1200 grit belt with a join it in it. It would be rather pointless.
The aluminium oxide belts are much thinner than the ceramic belts and the join is much more noticeable. So I think it’s a combination of the belt material and grit size. I do have a trizact belt which I must try again as that is a very thick belt. I was initially really disappointed with the result but it may have been my lack of experience. However, the aluminium oxide belts are what Sorby recommended to me for high carbon tools.
I‘d love to get to a show where Sorby is demonstrating a pro edge and give them a plane blade and watch them put an edge on it whilst I have a hidden square and diamond plate in my pocket to see what their result is. There is definitely a learning curve and technique to master.
RichardG
If at first you don’t succeed have a cup of tea.
Plus I love the fact that once the gouge has lost its perfect profile (this is becoming less of an issue as my skill has improve) you can flip it over flute side down, grind it flat and then use the jig to recreate a perfect fingernail again in less than a minute.
AJB Temple
Finely figured
Interesting experiences. I do turn, but not very much and so my experience of sharpening turning gouges etc is pretty limited. Personally I never expected the tool to be a precision machine, but I do think the manufacturer could improve some aspects. In my case table adjustability is a no brainer I think and clearly the back platen needs beefing up - it seems silly to have that as a consumable?
The side guard needs a re-design. Obviously I would never advocate leaving a guard off, (though I do sometimes forget to put it back on - approx 100% of the time) as it gets in the way if you are trying to slide a plane blade to one side.
The side guard needs a re-design. Obviously I would never advocate leaving a guard off, (though I do sometimes forget to put it back on - approx 100% of the time) as it gets in the way if you are trying to slide a plane blade to one side.
scooby
Established Member
I use mainly mine for my woodturning tools for which it is excellent. Decent for chisels, ok for irons..Much as Richard said.
Thats the reason I still have the bench grinder and veritas rest. With that, I just have to keep the wheels dressed flat and square to the rest.
Interestingly, Sorby list the back plate as a consumable.
As I said earlier, I'd have probably regretted buying the Pro Edge before I started turning. I've just come back from sharpening my gouges and its a joy to use.
Thats the reason I still have the bench grinder and veritas rest. With that, I just have to keep the wheels dressed flat and square to the rest.
Interestingly, Sorby list the back plate as a consumable.
As I said earlier, I'd have probably regretted buying the Pro Edge before I started turning. I've just come back from sharpening my gouges and its a joy to use.
JobandKnock
Amateur curmudgeon
I don't do turning or carving, either
I do use chisels and gouges out on building sites as well as some planes (jack, smoother, shoulder rebate, etc). I like my chisels and plane irons to be sharp, but I don't have a lot of time to sort out nicks in blade edges (a daily occurrence on listed building refurbs). I can and do use diamond hones to keep the edges fresh when out "in the field", especially when dealing with stuff like oak or 100 year old pitch pine.
Without the ProEdge or something similar I'd be spending far too much valuable time sharpening. Had a Makita horizontal waterstone in the past - too slow, too easy to hollow the stones, also had a Tormek T-7 but was unimpressed with the jigs for plane irons (they flex) and how slow and messy it was to use, still have an old 8in bench grinder - too easy to draw the temper of tools if you aren't careful and remove too much material too quickly. So despite some niggles the ProEdge is an effective tool for me which makes my life easier. And that's why you buy such tools, surely?
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scooby
Established Member
Some interesting ideas here for sharpening irons here Quick mod to make Pro Edge accomodate Tormek style jigs | Robert Sorby Tools Forum
