Some more questions re. shed

[MikeG.]

Cripples isn't an American term..they're studs which don't go to the wall plate but instead support a lintel.

I'm afraid I don't follow the rest of your question. But let me give you a few principles......the membrane sits flush with the outside face of the studs, other than at openings where is gets folded into the structural opening. Window openings in the studwork have a lintel above and a cill plate at the bottom.

 

[John Brown]

Cripples isn't an American term..they're studs which don't go to the wall plate but instead support a lintel.

I'm afraid I don't follow the rest of your question. But let me give you a few principles......the membrane sits flush with the outside face of the studs, other than at openings where is gets folded into the structural opening. Window openings in the studwork have a lintel above and a cill plate at the bottom.

Ok. Well I've done it now, but my cill has a sloping section that projects aprox 50mm from the other framing. So I added another piece of 4 x 2 that wiil sit between the cripples and the cill, so that I can fold the wrap over, and then fit the cill with the sloping, projecting edge.

 

[MikeG.]

I can't see how you'll make that work. I'd knock that out and just put in a flush piece of 4x2. This gets boarded over, so I can't picture a decent detail if it stuck out. You'd never keep it watertight.

 

[John Brown]

I can't see how you'll make that work. I'd knock that out and just put in a flush piece of 4x2. This gets boarded over, so I can't picture a decent detail if it stuck out. You'd never keep it watertight.

So how do I ķeep the rain from running down the window, and getting behind the cladding, which is 25mm out from the framing?

 

[MikeG.]

That's the job of the window cill.

 

[John Brown]

That's the job of the window cill.

Now I'm confused. You just told me to ditch the window cill...

 

[MikeG.]

No, you said you'd got a protruding bit of the frame, I thought. That's what I told you to ditch. If you haven't, you can't.

I think we're both confused.

 

[John Brown]

The window unit had been removed for a house which was being extended. It does not have an integral cill. So I made one from a piece of 145 x 47. I put a 25 degree slope on the edge and a drip groove below. I was planning to fit this underneath the window frame.

 

[MikeG.]

That's fine, so long as it isn't part of the studwork/ framing. You make a wall with a hole in it, then insert a window with an attached cill.

 

[John Brown]

That's fine, so long as it isn't part of the studwork/ framing. You make a wall with a hole in it, then insert a window with an attached cill.

Ok. So if I attach the cill to the window frame, before I fit the window it's OK? I was planning on fixing the cill to the framing(after wrapping) and then fixing the window to the cill, but I am happy to do the former.

 

[John Brown]

And I apologise for being such a nuisance, especially at the weekend, but I am trying to make the most of the dry spells.

 

[MikeG.]

Ok. So if I attach the cill to the window frame, before I fit the window it's OK?

Exactly.

I was planning on fixing the cill to the framing(after wrapping) and then fixing the window to the cill, but I am happy to do the former.

No, the cill attaches to the window, not the framing.

 

[John Brown]

I've been looking for details about how to fix insect mesh. So far, no luck. I am not at that stage yet, but don't want to do anything that would compromise the operation later. I skimmed through Mike's a different place thread, but may have missed the insect mesh action..

 

[MikeG.]

Go back to that thread, John, as there are detailed photos of the mesh.

 

[John Brown]

I can only find the mesh at the bottom, stapled to your wedges that kick the feather edge out. I was wondering about at the top of the cladding.

 

[MikeG.]

There is no mesh at the top. There is no specific air admittance gap. The various gaps around and through the boarding are sufficient.

 

[John Brown]

I have some minor confusion with respect the the gable ends. I have the end rafters sitting at the extremities of the top plate. Since they are "portrait" in cross-sectional view, I have a discrepancy between the gable studs and the rafter, because the rafters are 47mm in the ridge direction, while the studwork is 95mm in that direction. I'm trying to understand:
a) how I should secure the top edges of the inner wall OSB on the gable ends.
b) How I fix the inner OSB on the roof to the end rafters.

I'm sure there's a simple solution to this, but I can't see it right now.

 

[MikeG.]

 

[John Brown]

Thanks, my reading of this is that the studs are stepped at the top tp sit under the rafter, and the "extra rafter" pieces are 47 by 47mm. I guess the celing OSB has to be fitted before the gable inner OSB?

 

[MikeG.]

If you do the gable first then you'd need to plant another piece of timber on the gable to take the end of the ceiling OSB. Whatever suits your order of work is do-able.