Solid beech worktop into a corner

[Neil]

Hi everyone,

I meant to post this earlier this week but of course its been a busy one... :roll:

I need to fit a solid beech worktop this weekend, and its into a corner with a (large) sink squeezed in on the diagonal. I would like to do it with 22.5 degree mitres:

but I've just remembered that someone (JasonB?) said in a thread a while ago that it isn't a good idea to mitre solid wood worktop and it should be butted at 90 degrees instead. I think this was in reference to 45 degree mitres, so I'm unsure what to do in my situation as the other alternative doesn't look right to me:

Anyone got any advice?

Thanks in advance,
Neil

 

[busy builder]

Try the Screwfix forum. Specifically the Kitchen Fitters forum, you will get an answer there, here's the link:

http://www.screwfix.com/talk/forum.jspa?forumID=32

 

[Oryxdesign]

What you are suggesting to do should be fine, I think JB may have been referring to Mason mitres. I am sure he'll be along later to clarify.

 

[jasonB]

Thats right you should not use a masons mitre but the full depth 22.5deg mitre you have shown will be fine with a few biscuits and bolts.

Be aware that in this situation if the wood contracts the L will close up to < and the oposite if it expands but if the tops have been aclimatised then the movement will be minimal. This is due to the movement in the wood over the nominal 600 width altering one leg of the "triangle" so the angles change.

I did this top and because it was in a commercial property could not aclimatise the tops beforehand, over the whole lingth it tightened up 1/4". probably not helped by them being 150mm staves

Jason

 

[Neil]

Thanks, Jason & Oryx - I was hoping you two would post! Its going in an unheated (brrr!) utility room and the worktop has been in the adjoining garage for a few months so hopefully the movement will be fairly minimal, but I'll make sure I don't restrict the movement at the outer ends. I would rather the L closed up and the worktop came away from the walls a bit at the ends than have the mitres break open!

BB, thanks for the suggestion of the SFix forum, I'm happy enough with the advice I've got so I won't try there this time, but I'll bear it in mind for the future.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[Oryxdesign]

Thats right you should not use a masons mitre but the full depth 22.5deg mitre you have shown will be fine with a few biscuits and bolts.

Be aware that in this situation if the wood contracts the L will close up to < and the oposite if it expands but if the tops have been aclimatised then the movement will be minimal. This is due to the movement in the wood over the nominal 600 width altering one leg of the "triangle" so the angles change.

I did this top and because it was in a commercial property could not aclimatise the tops beforehand, over the whole lingth it tightened up 1/4". probably not helped by them being 150mm staves

In this situation the sink probably helps a bit. Take note that JB mentions allowing the worktop to aclimatise if you can.

 

[Ross K]

Neil, the 22.5 degrees is the best way to do it as any movement across the grain with changes in wood moisture content will be equal in each adjoined piece whereas is you have it as per the 90 degree drawing you will have a differential in movement of the wood from one side of the joint to the other. The pieces with the cut at an acute angle to the grain direction will move more than the piece cut at 90 to the grain.

 

[Neil]

Thanks, Ross - now I'm off to do it - hope all the worktop behaves itself once I start chopping it up 8-[

Cheers,
Neil

 

[busy builder]

if it in the garage, then its not acclimatised. It need to be in the room its goingin for at least 1 week.

 

[neilyweely]

if it in the garage, then its not acclimatised. It need to be in the room its goingin for at least 1 week.

wonder if he got that before he left? mmmhh, might be interesting.......

Neil

 

[joiner_sim]

We had to mitre joint about 25 corner kitchen worktops ages ago. We cut the mitres using a jig we made for our wall saw. Then using another jig routered out the underside of the worktopsto allow for us to put bolts thru the two sides of the worktops. Can't remember what adhesive we used , I'd imagine it'd be silicone? But I would like to have thought it'd be something much stronger. That job was done at least 2 years ago, and we haven't had any comebacks from it..... yet! :lol:

It seemed a strong enough joint though. :wink:

 

[joiner_sim]

Just to note, after realising the topi is on about a solid worktop. The worktops I'm on about were chipboard.