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Jacob

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If you think about it beginners have a problem making straight even shavings. They tend to come out in many shapes and sizes. If they can do it accidentally surely we can do it on purpose?
Too much thinking going on IMHO - just do it!
 

Mr T

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Hi

After the discussions (arguements!) on this I've been checking out my planes and irons to check flatness, they're old records. To be on the safe side I borrowed a colleagues Clifton No.6 which has a very flat sole and is sharpened flat, not even rounded at the corners. I was able to take an even shaving down the middle and tapered ones either side without tilting the plane, just by moving it from side to side.

I can't explain how this works but must believe what I see. One of the great mysteries of our craft!!

Chris
 

dunbarhamlin

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I have been converted to using a cambered iron for truing an edge, but of the four(?) methods of using an uncambered iron to true an edge, I found uneven weighting the least effective except for finessing the last few minutes. Perhaps because I only have access to relatively inflexible modern plane bodies.

Holding the plane body true is the fastest way to get close, and with daily practice I expect "close" would fast become "close enough" particularly for joinery.

The other two only work over discrete regions of similar untruth:

Using the projection of the iron to produce shallow rabbets: I found this the easiest to control and fairly quick.

Using the lateral adjuster is not convenient, since it requires that the offset be a simple fraction of waste wedge to be removed.

(Oh - forgot jigged of course - either shooting board or jointer fence)
 

Jacob

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bugbear":398g3wl7 said:
Since we're now discussing edge jointing techniques, I'll remind people of this thread:

hand-plane-issues-t51663.html

BugBear
Very interesting BB. I know you are a fan of my stuff.
Why are you reminding us of that thread in particular? A cambered blade does help a lot, which doesn't mean we can't discuss how to use a straight edged blade as an alternative.
Basically most practicing woodworkers will make it work with whatever tools they have to hand and very few tasks are dependent on one tool or one set-up only.
 

bugbear

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Jacob":24prr4nc said:
bugbear":24prr4nc said:
Since we're now discussing edge jointing techniques, I'll remind people of this thread:

hand-plane-issues-t51663.html

BugBear
Very interesting BB. I know you are a fan of my stuff.
Why are you reminding us of that thread in particular?
It was a wide ranging and detailed discussion of at least 3 different jointing techniques.

BugBear
 

Jacob

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bugbear":66s04uu8 said:
Jacob":66s04uu8 said:
bugbear":66s04uu8 said:
Since we're now discussing edge jointing techniques, I'll remind people of this thread:

hand-plane-issues-t51663.html

BugBear
Very interesting BB. I know you are a fan of my stuff.
Why are you reminding us of that thread in particular?
It was a wide ranging and detailed discussion of at least 3 different jointing techniques.

BugBear
Good glad to hear it. I thought I was being stalked, yet again!
 

custard

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David C":1i7lhkvd said:
I have never suggested that squaring an edge cannot be done with a straight blade, as I know plenty of you do this.

It would be useful to know how, as I could then explain it to others.

David
Possibilities,

1. Shooting board
2. Fence, ie Stanley 386 or the Veritas modern equivalent
3. Dedicated edging plane, such as these two from Veritas

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 56084&ap=1
 

János

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Hello,

This is an interesting thread. I use a no.7 Stanley try plane for long edges and large panels, and a long wooden try plane for really long stuff.
gyalu.jpg

For small pieces I use a no.5. Their blades have straight edges (as straight as I am able to sharpen them that way), wit the corners (the last 1~1,5 millimetres of the edge) "rounded" . I have had no problem with them, and I have never ever tried to flex/twist the body of the planes in use to get the required results. The "applied pressure" thing works quite well. One aspect behind the success of this method are the resiliency of wood and the non-linear character of the "specific cutting resistance" of wood fibres: thinner shavings are harder to cut, so even small variations in the distribution of the applied hand pressure might alter the effective shaving thickness/cutting depth across the width of the cutting blade.

I am a small person, about 168 cm tall, and 52 kg, It seems a little absurd to me, that I might be able to twist perceptibly a rigid cast iron handplane, like a no.5 or no.7, by the way.

Have a nice day,

János
 

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Jacob

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Pete Maddex":2tom4bu0 said:
Jacob! he's behind you :shock: :wink:


Pete
:lol:
He is isn't he - the little weasel!
Just when you think it's safe to come out there's a rustling in the undergrowth :roll:
 

bugbear

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Jacob":auiimjug said:
Pete Maddex":auiimjug said:
Jacob! he's behind you :shock: :wink:


Pete
:lol:
He is isn't he - the little weasel!
Just when you think it's safe to come out there's a rustling in the undergrowth :roll:
Think of me as an on-line conscience, like Jiminy Cricket...

BugBear
 

ali27

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Jacob":3endn5pn said:
Pete Maddex":3endn5pn said:
Jacob! he's behind you :shock: :wink:


Pete
:lol:
He is isn't he - the little weasel!
Just when you think it's safe to come out there's a rustling in the undergrowth :roll:
Jacob, you should be doing woodworking. You are wasting too much time.

Ali
 
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