David, like you, my plane blade cutting edges are generally curved slightly, but I still bend a plane's sole when doing so is useful. This is particularly the case with my no. 7 try plane, rarely so with no. 5 jack planes, and never intentionally with something like no 4 smoothing planes. I don't use a no. 6 plane: I don't even own one, so I guess this is a size for which I've never found a purpose. Slainte.David C":3s6341uf said:I believe Richard Jones bends planes, but I prefer the cambered edge approach, as it is easy to teach.
Interesting - thanks for posting that, Jeff.Jeff Gorman":30wtfzwe said:Custard wrote:
Karl Holtey says most woodworkers would be astonished if they realised how much the sole of the average plane can deflect in use.
The proof of the pudding is in the testing as at http://tinyurl.com/7oeqdez
I wouldn't be surprised, for similar body shapes, to find that mild steel deflected more than cast iron, but this is only an instinctive response.
Absolutely! Any theory which shows that something which is demonstrably working can't work is clearly a theory with some "issues".Cheshirechappie":22djskzq said:Which basically pretty much confirms what we all 'knew' anyway.
I'm not trying to make any precise or analytical point, here. Just that longer planes will deflect more than short ones under a given load, and that quite small increases in plane sole thickness (and perhaps more significantly, deeper side webs) will stiffen them up quite a bit.Harbo":3pgl3w7q said:Are you talking about bending moments here?
They are dependent on span but your argument seems to be based on the idea that the plane is only supported at the front and back edges.
The actual span will vary according to irregularities in the sole and the profile of the wood being planed. No hollows - no BMs as it is being fully supported?
It will however be subjected to forces from the front and rear totes and any twisting that the woodworker might induce ?
His justification/rationlisation is that the scratch marks (and the removal of his magic marker lines) show that the plane's sole has made a contact (presumed to be uniform) with a lapping surface (presumed to be flat).Mr T":37265io3 said:Hi
Watching the video it is interesting that Paul doesn't actually test whether the sole is in fact flat after his treatment, he just tells us it is.
Can I have a simpler clue (or link) please?Mr T":3sdwql64 said:I sharpen my blades straight across but find I can get a laterally tapered shaving by changing the position of the plane on the wood (I have a video on Facetube about this)
Neither of those I suspect Chris because I bet your blades aren't sharpened straight across. More than likely your sharpening technique includes the normal practice of bevelling or slightly rounding over the corners so that they don't dig in which would leave a sharp ridge on each pass of the plane. This bevelling will be enough to do what you describe and demonstrate in your video.Mr T":yqqyrozl said:... I know you suggest tapered shavings cannot be taken with a non cambered blade, all I can say is it seems to work. Is it to do with weight distribution or the flexing of the sole suggested earlier?
Same here...my blades are always honed flat (difficult to do anything else with a Kell guide) I've never had any sort of problem in planing an edge and do it in the same way as it Chris's clip...'cept I don't put the plane sole down on the bench :lol: - RobMr T":1d4cq6ul said:David C., the plane sole is flat across the width. I know you suggest that tapered shavings cannot be taken with a non cambered blade, all I can say is it seems to work.