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Soft faced hammers vs dead blow hammers

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morpheus83uk

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Hello,

I have been having a look around for a hammer which wont mark my work when making joints such as mortise and tenon however I keep coming finding soft face hammers and dead blow hammers being referred to as the same thing? Are they the same or are they different? I think the dead blow is heavier and more like a mallet and the soft faced hammers are for tapping joints together?

Am I correct or are they both for the same thing or just completely wrong?

Thanks

James
 

AndyT

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They are different, but can sometimes be used for the same jobs.
A dead blow hammer has lead shot loose inside it. This stops the hammer from rebounding when it hits something.

A soft faced hammer is solid but will deform a bit on impact.
 

ColeyS1

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I saw something quite nifty the other day. It was a normal claw hammer with a rubber foot/grommet like you'd find on the bottom of a walking stick.

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That would work

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The BEST way to knock joinery together is a 20oz hammer and a block of wood. The time honoured way.
 

Eric The Viking

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I tend to agree though - I have a Thor copper/rawhide mallet and a rubber one. They have their uses but both will leave marks on wood (masking tape on the rubber mallet would probably help - will try it next time).

I find I get better control though with a claw hammer and a hardwood block.
 

Just4Fun

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MikeG.":ena17a6s said:
Rubber mallet for me. Just a pound or two (money, not weight).
Same here, but they are not all the same. I lost (temporarily misplaced) mine recently so I bought another. Basically the same thing but the head is white instead of black rubber. It turns out the new one is noticeably softer then the older model. I dislike the new one as it feels too soft to me. Perhaps that I am just used to the firmer one. Anyway I am glad that my previous mallet turned up and I doubt I will ever use the newer model again.
 

Blackswanwood

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+1 for Thor from Axminster. Richard Maguire extolled their virtues and I had just broken my wooden mallet so bought one. Nylon face for chisels and rubber for assembly.
 

MikeG.

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Just4Fun":j1oebat4 said:
MikeG.":j1oebat4 said:
Rubber mallet for me. Just a pound or two (money, not weight).
Same here, but they are not all the same. I lost (temporarily misplaced) mine recently so I bought another. Basically the same thing but the head is white instead of black rubber. It turns out the new one is noticeably softer then the older model. I dislike the new one as it feels too soft to me. Perhaps that I am just used to the firmer one. Anyway I am glad that my previous mallet turned up and I doubt I will ever use the newer model again.
I use the white version, because that's what I have. Save yours for paving/ path laying.
 

MikeG.

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That would work":23nq9sde said:
The BEST way to knock joinery together is a 20oz hammer and a block of wood. The time honoured way.
Agreed, but sometimes you need a third hand when doing this, so sometimes it is just more convenient to be able to hit the work directly. Hence the rubber mallet.
 

dannyr

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fairly large wood or rawhide hammer/mallet (3 in dia) spreads the load - for me
 

Pete Maddex

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I have a small rawhide mallet that I use for adjusting planes.
A couple of black rubber mallets a Thor lots of wooden ones a few milk bottle ones, so what ever comes to hand gets used.

Pete

Pete
 

bridger

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All of my deadblow hammers are soft face, but not all of my soft face hammers are deadblow.
 

woodbloke66

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I use a white faced rubber mallet which works quite well, but the ultimate 'knocker-inner' is my 2kg lump hammer, one of the favourite tools of the late Alan Peters - Rob
 
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