So, do most of you use sketch up for your designs?

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i have 2 ways.

little project, such as a planter or something like that, i have a pen and pad, with scribbled on diamensions

big ones, e.g. bbq shelter, skechup, just to work out proportions and how much timber needed.
 
Whilst I would prefer to use something like Fusion360, I use Shapr3D on the iPad with an Apple Pencil. It's really nice to be able to use something on the iPad as I can tinker with designs whilst watching TV in the evening. Much easier to show get approval from the wife as well rather than traipsing out to the office.

I don't rate the software much, it's expensive for the pro package, it's not very intuitive, and is not parametric (which is a real pain, and breaks my software engineer brain). But the workflow of the iPad and the pencil make up for that in spades imo.

On the subject of CAD, I've seen massive benefit in being able to visualise designs for myself, but also for other people who's observations improve the design. My wife and I have come up with a rather elegant solution for our under stairs storage which would not have been possible without CAD. Rapid iteration is the key to finessed designs imo.

Workshop furniture, something rustic, or similar I won't bother with CAD, for the most part the design will be in my head, maybe with a pencil drawing for dimension reference (juggling dimensions in my head generally results in milling mistakes).
 
Old school.
Draw it up full size.
Sometimes make a mock up or prototype from softwood depending what it is I'm making.
I find perspective can be judged better than sketch up which I have used, and a full size drawing can be used as a rod. Invaluable for marking out dimensions quickly and checking components.

I always relate to the 737 max which, had a mock up been done they would have realised the engines were too high and too far forward. Mock ups are an invaluable tool.
Additional cost is another thing.



But what do I know
 
I’ve never really got into it, but everyone seems to be using sketch up these days.
Not everyone!

I use Qcad, a 2D CAD package that does what I need, ideal for getting accurate drawings for things like built up profiles and proving fag packet ideas. But rather than spend to much time drawing I prefer to just rough sketch and then get into making it.
 
Pencil and paper to explore a basic concept, then Rhino3D for more exact work, weird joints and details and do on. To me, CAD is part of the enjoyment. I also have a little CNC machine I bought for guitar making, but now mostly use for jig components. Or surfacing really nastily grained timber.
 
My body came with built in 3D software, still running on version 1, I use Notpad (the original version) with Pencil V1. I'm more an 'organic designer, I just make things up as I go along.
 
but everyone seems to be using sketch up these days.
Not everyone, often you need a scribble on paper, once upon a time known as fag packet drawings. I cannot get on with Sketchup, have used Catia, Autocad and Solidworks in the past but for me Sketchup is to graphical and not technical enough so when needed I use Qcad pro which is great.
 
My men's shed chaps say it's all in my head and have a good laugh at me! if I had a drawing then the guys would still argue over the the interpretation of the dwg!

Btw does an ariondack chair have a curved or straight back?!!!

Cheers James
 
I'm pretty much part of the pencil and paper brigade myself these days, although I did use CAD for a steel-framed unit I made, where the ability to create layers etc really was invaluable. But one thing nobody has mentioned is using isometric paper, which I find tremendously useful for producing quasi 3d drawing with accurate (sort of) dimensions.
 
2B for face and edge marks or any marks on rough sawn
HB for general notes on wood or paper, design work on paper etc
2H for the rod and for marks on planed timber,
If you buy 3 different brands then you can have different colour for each grade, saves confusion.
Drawing board, T square, set square, rubber, compasses, various plastic stencils, draughting tape, clips
Occasional pen use for posh drawings.
Cheap paper - flip chart pads
Had a go with sketchup but felt that I'd have to be very competent to reach the point where the program itself wasn't in charge of what I could do. But in any case the thing has to be turned back into pencil marks on wood so you might as well start with a pencil from the beginning.
 
2B for face and edge marks or any marks on rough sawn
HB for general notes on wood or paper, design work on paper etc
2H for the rod and for marks on planed timber,
If you buy 3 different brands then you can have different colour for each grade, saves confusion.
Drawing board, T square, set square, rubber, compasses, various plastic stencils, draughting tape, clips
Occasional pen use for posh drawings.
Cheap paper - flip chart pads
Had a go with sketchup but felt that I'd have to be very competent to reach the point where the program itself wasn't in charge of what I could do. But in any case the thing has to be turned back into pencil marks on wood so you might as well start with a pencil from the beginning.
Exactly how I was taught in school and technical college, it’s a shame they don’t teach it anymore.
 
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I need to see a project in my mind first, can spin it around like you would on CAD, try different variations, then once I know what it’ll look like I’ll make a rough diagram on paper with all the necessary dimensions, time’s money when you do it for a living.
 
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I use SketchUp along side CorelDRAW! -- both have their use, one to get the 'spacial' aspects in order and the other for the detailed workshop drawings which now-a-days includes creation of CNC drawings which can't be created from pencil & paper images :)

It does depend upon the job in hand of course but most of my work involves complex interaction of many components such as clocks, though my current project is a 1/12th scale Grand Piano with MP3 player (ie. a music box).

Here's a screen-shot showing the two programs with the piano drawings 'live'.
SU-Corel Screen-shot.png

The big advantage of getting to grips with any computer based CAD program is that you can test 'ideas' and sort out potential problems before committing real materials, but there is also the option to 'scale up' the view so that it becomes easy to see the difference that even 0.1mm can make ---- the black keys on the piano are 1.1mm thick and some of the white keys have 0.6mm or 0.8mm rebates!
 
The big advantage of getting to grips with any computer based CAD program is that you can test 'ideas' and sort out potential problems before committing real materials,
Yes that is how I use Qcad, a 2D program but you can get an extension so it produces files for CNC. By having a library of router cutter profiles I can work out combinations to make stacked mouldings and such before buying the cutter or doing trial runs on actual timber. If anyone wants a library of Infinity 17th and 19th century profiles then feel free to ask.
 
I've enjoyed reading all the comments in this topic. Been very interesting.

I've always liked the idea of using a CAD program over the years when I came to computers - 1995? - and have 'played' at times but not persevered, time to learn in depth has been the problem. Pencil & paper have been easier for an initial idea then a rough design, sizes etc., but mostly I *see* what I'm wanting to create in my mind - and adapt as I go along. Started that way - pencil sketch etc., back at school in the early/mid 1960's so it's been hard to adapt... much as I've wanted to and tried.

That said I did come across some videos on Sketchup on YT by "Kings Fine Woodworking" giving some instructions on using it making it seem quite "easy". I downloaded the Sketchup 2017 version (as it's free) and have had a play. I still *like* the idea of using such but I'm not sure I've the *time* to learn on the computer when it's the old way of pencil & paper that's the quickest (for me).
 
Exactly the same for me - SketchUp lets me test designs before diving in, saving both mistakes and materials.

For example, I had a shock recently when I realised that for the interior doors I'm planning to make, I can save about seven feet of stock by using dominoes instead of traditional mortice and tenon joints. That's per door, and I have a dozen of them to make. It means the dominoes will pay for themselves and the construction will be much simpler as a consequence. Of course, if I was more experienced I'd know this already (and I'd already have a story stick, too), but I'm not. Seeing it as 3D objects really helped in construction decisions.

Of course I rough stuff out with pencil and paper (weapon of choice is a 3B or 4B pencil), but my measurements come from SU, as do the plans usually, and I can quickly get sections through a 3D object, to see if there are issues such as clearances that will cause problems.

Two more recent examples:

I've got to make a strong storage box for castoring legs for a tower scaffold system. These things are three feet long (roughly), very unbalanced (weight at one end), tubular and greasy. But they are also fragile and a safety-critical component. And I need space to store small parts for the toeboard brackets, etc. I won't be using it - it belongs to the church my wife attends - so things have to pack-in intuitively. So I've drawn out a castor column to scale, and copied it four times. These objects I can just move around in 3D until I get a practical arrangement.

I'm refurbishing a motorbike fuel tank, by stripping paint and rust from the inside and re-coating it. It's big and will be pretty heavy when it's full of chemicals. I'm making a jig to hold it, allowing it to rotate for agitation and invert for draining out. I can't afford to drop it (no dents presently) nor splash chemicals on the outer paint finish. So again, modelling it and the jig lets me see if ideas will work.

I've also played with drill press table designs, etc. Again, I picked up on problems where the quill three-handled drive would foul parts of the table, and issues fixing it to the press's existing circular table, for which I think I now have a neat solution.

I could do all of this without SU, but nowadays it's my go-to aid for thinking through design problems.

. . .

The biggest tip I was given, incidentally, is to make every object you create a "component", as soon as you draw it out - cubes, cylinders, whatever. That way you can control how they interact with other parts of the model (you can always combine them later on). The ability to have clones of a component, such that changing one modifies all of them at the same time, is invaluable for things like table legs and other repeated components in a design. I use that a great deal too - it's automatic and very fast. Again you can turn this off quickly if you need to.

HTH, E.
I have often used floating tenons, don't have domino facilities as cannot justify it.
 
I use SketchUp because I can. I learnt how to use it well. I use pencil and paper up to my abilities to draw. I cannot match in accuracy of proportions using pencil. I don't use a ruler on paper because it is easier to go to SketchUp when accuracy and straightness is needed.

What was the question? How many can use SketchUp and how many cannot use a pencil?

For me it was easier to learn SketchUp than to master drawing with a pencil...
It is hard to learn how to draw for most people, I think.
It is time consuming to draw in full size. Should be possible to print from SketchUp full size if needed.

Recently I mastered Fusion 360 and 3D printing. Next thing I want to try is to 3D print a miniature model in plastic with all mortises and tenons. How about that, old pencil? :cool: I do envy those how can draw though, for some reason.

So, how many are very good at both, 3D modelling and drawing?
 
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