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MikeW

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Well, I made a new handle for my Disston D-8 this weekend. Unfortunately one must make sure to pick the proper bit when cutting holes for the saw nuts.

In these messy pics (the mess is the bench <g>), one can spot three different bits. Those were the proper bits. For whatever reason, I picked up a fourth one that I had out when seeing what sizes I needed and didn't put back the wrong-sized one.

Went and drilled the wrong size for the back saw nuts. Oops. So, when I recover from this--a D-8 handle takes a bit of work--I'll remake it. Chalk it up to live and learn.

The main notable thing about a D-8 handle is the kerf in the handle to receive the saw blade needs to match the radius (7") of the end of the blade. And there are actually two different cuts to make as can be made out in the last picture.

This is the main reason that it is difficult. That and it is a closed top, meaning the slot does not come up through the top of the handle. I took a lot of care and did pretty good. Though I did pare off the tip of the handle and a little of the slot can be seen in the first picture.







But it was a fun experience, and the blade is cleaned and the teeth have been touched up. I'll use this handle as a pattern for the new one. The original was missing the entire bottom portion, so now I have a full pattern.

Mike
 

Philly

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Looks great, Mike!
Sorry to hear about your boo-boo. Live and learn, eh? :roll:
Keep it up,
Philly :D
 
A

Anonymous

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Looks fantastic Mike. No way you could get away with using it?

If I understand correctly, the problem is purely cosmetic, I think you'll be OK with just a small gap around the nut's periphery :wink: It'll look like it was meant to be - a feature
 

MikeW

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Thanks everyone.

Tony, partly cosmetic. By allowing the nuts to recess further they do not bind the handle well. The saw nuts are tapered on their edges and need to strike the surface for a fit that won't put all the stress on the bolt halves. I think <g>. A handle only takes a couple hours to make--if one doesn't take 70 pictures of the process, let alone the pics for sharpening it :shock:

Chris, that's a secret yet to be revealed :lol: . Ok, so it's not a secret. I used a 7 1/4" circular saw blade mounted in the tablesaw. I ground down the circ blade to 7" and removed 99% of the set of the teeth. It's within a few thou of the same thickness as the handsaw blade.

It was in turn clamped to the saw's fence after positioning it above the blade and the blank centered to the blade front/back. The blade slowly raised, lowered a little to clear chips and then raised more. 7 turns of the height adjustment on my saw as a matter of fact.


Mike
 

Alf

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Up the proverbial creek
Mike,

It's a work of art; what a shame about the bit size. ](*,) Also a veritable tragedy that the tablesaw should be the answer to the kerf - I feared as much. I suppose they're useful for something than... :roll:

Cheers, Alf
 

simuk

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Mike,
unlucky mate, I no how you feel been to that place many a time myself

Simuk
 

MikeW

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Well, Alf, if there was any consolation for me concerning the 'lectric device, it was that Stanley used a circular saw blade to cut theirs.

I had read that somewhere, but it is quite evident once I sawed the original handle apart to use for a template.

Hand tools were used for all else :lol:



Mike
 
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