Small Tenon Saw

[Jacob]

'lean to cut' might be a clue - not sure what that means......

I agree with that (I think). You start with a straight kerf at 90º for at least 1 mm, but deeper is ok. Then ledge the saw in the kerf and start your angle cut.
The saw doesn't matter much (DT saws are all the same just about) but the last sharpening does.

 

[powerhouse]

As a global mod on a none woodworking forum, I'm well used to threads going totally off topic.
So I would just like to thank the members, that answered the original question.

Cheers
Ken

 

[Jacob]

As a global mod on a none woodworking forum, I'm well used to threads going totally off topic.
So I would just like to thank the members, that answered the original question.

Cheers
Ken

Thank you for asking it. I apologise for those who didn't stick strictly to the point. Please don't let their ramblings put you off asking another one.
Which plane did you buy in the end?

 

[Rob Platt]

As a global mod on a none woodworking forum, I'm well used to threads going totally off topic.
So I would just like to thank the members, that answered the original question.

Which plane did you buy in the end?

The spitfire liked the design

all the best
rob

 

[powerhouse]

=D> Heard it all before guys =D>
Could admin delete my account please.

Cheers
Ken

 

[MickCheese]

=D> Heard it all before guys =D>
Could admin delete my account please.

Cheers
Ken

I'll second that, please delete his account.

Does everyone really have to tread on eggshells around here!

If I start a conversation down the pub and it goes 'off track' and then I started to sulk I'd get laughed out of the place.

Grow up.

Mick

 

[MIGNAL]

No. Don't see the problem myself. If a thread goes off topic is it such a big deal? Providing the original question was answered in a comprehensive manner of course.

 

[Modernist]

After 20 posts in 4 years and a snotty attitude I don't suppose he'll be missed.

Also he brings Geordies into disrepute, unless of course he is a transported southerner.

 

[condeesteso]

re 'transported southerner'. I'm a self-declared 'displaced northern git'. Does that mean we cancel each other out?

 

[Modernist]

re 'transported southerner'. I'm a self-declared 'displaced northern git'. Does that mean we cancel each other out?

No cos he's gone and your still here, and so am I so that's 2 nil

 

[Peter Sefton]

Hey guys going to invest in a small tenon saw ( carcass saw ) both rip and crosscut.
I have narrowed it down to these three,
Adria small tenon saw
Pax 1776
Lie- Nielson

Ok I know at the end of the day, it comes down to personal preference, but I cant make my mind up witch make to go for.
I have not used any of these before, so any recommendations would be appreciated.

Cheers

Ken :wink:

Sorry to be late to the party (I have been starting off my new students) and as part of their efforts to buy new hand tools, we have just tested 11 of the top Dovetail saws for British Woodworking Magazine. =D>
Including Adria, Ln, Veritas, Cosman, and the English saws. Not to give the plot away and I haven’t finished writing the article yet but, I have just taken delivery of a Pax 1776 12”13 TPI rip tenon saw and a Pax 10” 20 TPI Rip Dovetail saw got them out of the box yesterday put them straight to work doing demonstrations and they are both brilliant. I understand Pax have taken the handle comments on board and improved their act, please don’t give up on Sheffield and our last British saw makers. =D> =D> =D>

Cheers Peter

 

[Jacob]

...... I understand Pax have taken the handle comments on board and improved their act, please don’t give up on Sheffield and our last British saw makers. ......

And if they sharpen them nicely too they are on to a winner! Simple things saws. No reason for them not to be very good, if not perfect.

 

[Mr Ed]

I understand Pax have taken the handle comments on board and improved their act, please don’t give up on Sheffield and our last British saw makers.

I'd be interested to know what has changed Peter. The current handles look so god awful they put me off what are probably otherwise good saws at a good price.

Ed

 

[Jacob]

Getting a good quality saw is no prob, it's just the handles nobody likes. We are woodworkers, so why pay someone else to do this simple (after a bit of practice) and interesting little task?
http://www.woodworkingschool.co.uk/2011 ... o-classic/
Could be a little earner?
The principle difference between the Pax and the Adria offerings on this page would seem to be the handles, and about £80!
I guess the handle is the most expensive part of the Veritas.

So what do you need? Guess list: Small rasps, coping saw, Mora craft knife, sandpaper, few chisels and gouges, anything else? Too small for spoke-shaving.

These look pretty classy but you are clearly paying for the handle as these are just about the same but a lot cheaper

 

[Sawyer]

After much deliberation, I recently bought a Pax 1776 10'' 15tpi. A very nice saw indeed: cuts superbly and looks good too. Surprised by the sharp arris left on the handle, but about 90 seconds with sandpaper sorted this out and personalised it a bit too. I could so easily have bought a Lynx or similar and either customised or re-made the handle. I do all my own sharpening, so could have saved myself some money.

So why a 1776?

'Made in Sheffield' counts for a lot. Despite the sorry state of British industry generally, some of the world's best woodworking tools are still being made by companies in Sheffield. We need to use 'em or lose 'em. Despite good, cheaper alternatives Pax 1776, is a bit of a classic, so I didn't begrudge Thos. Flinn & Co. the extra money. In the process, I've saved myself the job of re-handling, too.

No doubt Lie-Nielson & Adria are first rate saws, but will they actually cut any better than a Pax? As someone has already said, any saw is only as good as its last sharpening.
I'm confident that with care, the 1776 will perform very well for as long as I need it to (and much longer).

 

[LuptonM]

I think although all saws are pretty much the same, the smaller details make a better saw and the handles signify how much the maker actually cared about the product. I don't really get the argument "because its made in England I should buy it over x". As patriotic as it is, I would buy what ever I considered to be the better executed product for the price range as it encourages better craftsmanship.

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

I've got the LN and I got the Veritas. The Veritas is my "go to", because it feels better in my hand. Cut for cut, there isn't much difference, so my opinion is simply based on tactile feel.

 

[Jacob]

.... I don't really get the argument "because its made in England I should buy it over x". ...

I've never got the argument that only the fashionable and expensive products of a small number of American makers are any good and everything else is rubbish.
I hope the Brit makers don't get left behind in the flavoured handles stakes. Marmite, Cheese n Onion, beef n horseradish, etc?

 

[Paul Chapman]

've never got the argument that only the fashionable and expensive products of a small number of American makers are any good and everything else is rubbish.

So, who said that, Jacob?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Jacob]

've never got the argument that only the fashionable and expensive products of a small number of American makers are any good and everything else is rubbish.

So, who said that, Jacob?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Hmm... lemme think.. er.
Well there was a chap called Paul Chapman who used to talk about Stanley products in the darkest terms, as though Stanley himself had done him a personal (and perhaps unmentionable :shock: ) injury! :lol: