Sliding Mitre Saw with Dado capability

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segovia

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Hi

Is there a sliding Mitre Saw that has an extended arbor that would take thicker blade set, up to 6mm.

I am told I need dado capability
 
Not a current SCMS machine that I'm aware of, but I think there are/were some radial arm saws that could take a dado stack.

IMO though you're better off cutting dados/housings with a router. With stopped housings the router wins hands down, but even on through housings I tend to use a router. Occasionally I've used an SCMS for angled through housings but even on a top quality machine the bearing arm isn't quite as robust as I'd like, so unless you're absolutely consistent in operating the push stroke the depth of the housing can vary by a few tenths of a mill. I've got a dado stack for my table saw, furthermore it's settable in 0.1mm increments, however it only takes a bit of sawdust on the table surface to throw out the accuracy. Consequently I tend to stick to the router.

Just my 2p's worth.
 
Radial arm saws are more likely to support dado stacks than mitre saws (in fact I’ve never seen a mitre saw that would accept one). As it’s only 6mm in width you could take a couple of passes with a standard thickness blade using a SCMS with a depth stop, although I doubt you could do so with any great accuracy. What are you trying to make?
 
It is not for dado's, I want to add a 0.0.23" (0.58mm) blade and 2 * 3mm stabilizers.

The arbor needs to be able to take combination equal to a 6.58mm blade

John





custard":hlbsko46 said:
Not a current SCMS machine that I'm aware of, but I think there are/were some radial arm saws that could take a dado stack.

IMO though you're better off cutting dados/housings with a router. With stopped housings the router wins hands down, but even on through housings I tend to use a router. Occasionally I've used an SCMS for angled through housings but even on a top quality machine the bearing arm isn't quite as robust as I'd like, so unless you're absolutely consistent in operating the push stroke the depth of the housing can vary by a few tenths of a mill. I've got a dado stack for my table saw, furthermore it's settable in 0.1mm increments, however it only takes a bit of sawdust on the table surface to throw out the accuracy. Consequently I tend to stick to the router.

Just my 2p's worth.
 
Sorry I can't help, but I'm intrigued what you'd want such an ultra fine blade for?
 
I have a Wadkin RAS which I use for all sorts. It can take a dado stack which I don’t do, but have frequently used it with a spindle moulder block which is 50mm thick. All fits nicely within the crown guard.

The standard flanges for the blade must be at least 3mm thick of not more.
 
We have a few luthiers on the site who can no doubt help. I have never made a musical instrument but isn’t 1/4” quite thick for what you intend? Either way I think you might find it easiest with hand tools anyway.
 
Better off with a table saw and a crosscut sled maybe?

Coupled with a template it's perfect ...

[youtube]1ZebdYKvntQ[/youtube]
 
That was my first option but I have a Scheppach T2200 table saw with nonstandard grooves. I cut some 8mm hardwood strips, the fit in the groove is OK but the movement is restricted as there is a notch at both ends of the groove which would make the sled move up. I could make it work with a reduced movement and shorter rails. It only needs to move 60mm maximum +/- 20mm

My next issue would be to figure out how to fit the blade and stabilizers to my Scheppach TS2000 as I seem to have the same problem as I would with a standard Mitre saw. See the picture, if I add a stabilizer there isn't anything for the blade to center on.


NazNomad":32nhunrp said:
Better off with a table saw and a crosscut sled maybe?

Coupled with a template it's perfect ...

[youtube]1ZebdYKvntQ[/youtube]
 

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