Skew rebate plane

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MickCheese

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Some help needed.

I have a skew rebate plane complete with nicker.

I think I am right in that the nicker is only used for rebating across the grain?

My question is really on how to sharpen the blade. Keeping the bevel at the angle it came with has the leading edge chipping out a little and a very chattery (is that a word?) cut.

So, any tips on how to sharpen it would be good, should I try a secondary bevel?

And

Any tips on using it or is it all down to a very sharp blade?

Mick
 
MickCheese":1uuzgqyl said:
Some help needed.

I have a skew rebate plane complete with nicker.

I think I am right in that the nicker is only used for rebating across the grain?
Essential for starting across the grain but can also be used with. In either case used as knife gauge i.e. you draw the plane backwards to mark the cut with the nicker, before attempting to plane. Once started the nicker can be pulled in, depending on how the cut goes
My question is really on how to sharpen the blade. Keeping the bevel at the angle it came with has the leading edge chipping out a little and a very chattery (is that a word?) cut.

So, any tips on how to sharpen it would be good, should I try a secondary bevel?
Definitely not. It needs a single bevel 30 to 35º to keep the edge seated as near as poss to the body.
Rebate planes worked hard will chatter. You get a buzz sound and very regular chatter marks. If these are out of sight it doesn't matter. Otherwise you just have to work it slower.
And

Any tips on using it or is it all down to a very sharp blade?

Mick
Practice, practice!
 
Hi,

The nicker is normally used for cross grain work, but can also be used to sweeten the face edge on unruly grain when commencing a long grain cut.

Chipping could be due to any number of reasons, but often indicate too shallow a grind/honing angle.

Blade chatter often indicates;

1. The wedge/cap iron isn't firmly seated.

2. The blade is perhaps advanced too aggressively and could be retracted to make a lighter cut.

3. Intermittent changes in grain direction.

I'd not worry about chatter unless the planed surface is in full view afterwards.

Sharpening is optional with single or two bevels used, but it's often much easier to maintain a single bevel of 30 - 35 deg on the skew blades. You also need to sharpen the blade cheek adjacent to the nicker edge, as this normally stands proud of the plane side by a whisker and helps slice grain and keep rebated sides crisp while helping pull the plane toward the rebated shoulder.

It's always best to maintain as sharp an edge as possible, but the only other advice I can offer is for you to practise using the plane on cross and long grain work as often as possible until it's use becomes second nature.
 
MickCheese":2izbr25e said:
Thanks Jacob.

I think the bevel is too shallow and that is the reason it's chipping. I'll regrind it steeper and see how I go.

Mick


Instead of re-grinding to a steeper bevel I'd simply hone a steeper secondary bevel and the two resulting bevels will become one eventually. :wink:
 
MickCheese":3eplmisf said:
Some help needed.

I have a skew rebate plane complete with nicker.

I think I am right in that the nicker is only used for rebating across the grain?

My question is really on how to sharpen the blade. Keeping the bevel at the angle it came with has the leading edge chipping out a little and a very chattery (is that a word?) cut.

So, any tips on how to sharpen it would be good, should I try a secondary bevel?

And

Any tips on using it or is it all down to a very sharp blade?

Mick

Sounds like a moving fillister - very nice tool. If the final bevel is too low, yeah, it will chip out. Just hone a new final bevel. No need to grind away the primary - in fact a low primary it will make sharpening a secondary quicker.

You might find a few tips in my experience with an old (simple) skew rebate here:

http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php? ... =1#message

And a following up on use and tuning:

http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php? ... =1#message

BugBear
 
.

For what it’s worth….

It depends on whether you are cutting a structural rebate (out of sight) or something that will be visible. For the latter, consider rebate planes as a start to be finished later with a final tidying cut.

You don’t mention what sort of rebate plane you have……

A skewed blade, unlike a squared blade, presents its leading edge point at the shoulder of the work. I have found that once the blade is set parallel to the sole, it needs to be advanced sideways beyond the side edge of the plane a very tiny amount – a fraction - otherwise you’ll get a ‘stepped’, uneven cut that advances outwards at the base of the shoulder, but by doing this you need to look at the side edge.

Examine the side geometry of the leading edge of the blade. If the blade itself is presented at a skewed angle to the right hand side of the plane body when it is bedded, there will be two angles meeting at a compound that defines your cut – the cutting edge and the leading side. This needs to be well defined to give a good side cut as the blade advances. If the skewed blade is square on and the edge appear square, you will still need to dress this side edge.

On all my skewed blades, I like to dress the cutting edge, tip and leading corner of the side with the stone so that the meeting points are all clean, defined lines. This means flatting the back as well well as sharpening the cutting a edge, then dressing the side of the leading edge. Sounds a bit fussy, I know, but it does produce results.

Again, unless the wood I’m using is out of sight and particularly well behaved in the grain and hardness department, I don’t assume that the rebate is my final cut. I usually cut on the mean side and then clean down to the mark with a well-tuned shoulder plane.

Nickers are OK for most cross grain work and as has been said, need to be drawn backwards at each stroke, but if the work is to be in sight, for example a fielded panel, I prefer to scribe the final line with a knife or a cutting gauge – ideal for this - and either cut a start with a sharp saw or better still, undercut with a paring chisel.

Work methods are all a personal thing at the end of the day, Hope this helps…

.
 
Are we talking woodie like my recent thread on one I acquired:

DSC_0919.JPG


If so I find 30 degrees with a simple primary bevel works best if it is like that anyway but if it's not...I agree with others who have said that a secondary is the quickest way to go.

DSC_0934.JPG


It needs to protrude a whisker (as previously advised) to get right into the corner.

Yes...the nicker is for cross grain work...but I leave mine down for along the grain as well...doesn't hurt.

Do you have pictures?

Jim
 
IMG_0069.JPG


Here is a quick picture, taken with my iPad but had the light behind so not too good.

As can be seen it has a depth stop but no fence, a skew blade and a nicker blade, which is just two prongs.

Will try sharpening it again and give it another try.

Thanks for all the help.

Will let you know how I get on.

Mick
 

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MickCheese":2owb1eyv said:


Here is a quick picture, taken with my iPad but had the light behind so not too good.

As can be seen it has a depth stop but no fence, a skew blade and a nicker blade, which is just two prongs.

That's a dado plane.

BugBear
 
bugbear":axyci7i7 said:
MickCheese":axyci7i7 said:


Here is a quick picture, taken with my iPad but had the light behind so not too good.

As can be seen it has a depth stop but no fence, a skew blade and a nicker blade, which is just two prongs.

That's a dado plane.

BugBear

So is it for a fixed width dado? If so I need to acquire several more! :D

Mick
 
So is it for a fixed width dado? If so I need to acquire several more! :D

Mick


Yes.

Each one is a set width for cutting trenches across the grain. Typically for sitting the ends of shelves in.
They used to come in sets.

Its not a rebate plane, though you could cut a rebate with it, at a pinch if it was wide enough.

.
 
ac445ab":24573nfj said:
jimi43":24573nfj said:

I have a couple of these very good UK dado planes. Even if along the grain, yours seems cutting marvelously =D>

Yeh..I was only mucking about with it just after I got it and sharpened it up. It does plane equally as well across the grain but I didn't have a wide enough piece of scrap and a wife at the same time to show this.

It's a Ion (John) Green....so a bit old :mrgreen:

Jim
 
jimi43":axbd5bv0 said:
Hi Mick

I can't quite see but I think that is a Sims of London skew side rebate plane.

Nice!

Jim


Jim

It is Sims of London. Cost £10 from eBay so a good cheap interesting plane. Had a few hours of fun already so a bargain.

Sharpened the blade again but still struggling with it. I will take Jacobs advice and practice practice practice.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice.

Mick
 
MickCheese":5e657ejm said:
jimi43":5e657ejm said:
Hi Mick

I can't quite see but I think that is a Sims of London skew side rebate plane.

Nice!

Jim


Jim

It is Sims of London. Cost £10 from eBay so a good cheap interesting plane. Had a few hours of fun already so a bargain.

Sharpened the blade again but still struggling with it. I will take Jacobs advice and practice practice practice.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice.

Mick

I know you sometimes get down this way so if you are passing pop in and we'll have a tinker!

Cheers

Jim
 
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