Sip 01360 Lathe slow starting?

[Dino]

So. My lathe is acting up a little and I am not sure what.

When I power it up it takes a good 10-15 seconds to actually start working at full power, during that time it simply doesn't generate enough force to spin anything (I can hold the headstock and stop it from spinning).

Any ideas? I've given it a decent clean on the inside since it started happening but nothing has changed.

 

[CHJ]

Does it spin up quicker if you give the chuck a helping hand?

Sounds like classic Start/Run Capacitor failure.

 

[Dino]

Not that I've noticed, it helps sometimes to take the headstock, turn it upside down and let it start up then replace it if that makes sense.

How would I go about fixing this?

 

[wizard]

new Capacitor simples

 

[finneyb]

http://www.powertoolspares.com/tool/sip ... 360/01360/

Brian

 

[Dino]

Awesome, thanks. After some playing about it turns out it probably is this (spinning it does help it out).

Thanks guys.

 

[wizard]

or this cheaper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380V-10MF...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item5d4e1e29d1

 

[flh801978]

When you say " take the headstock off turn it upside down then start it and replace" do you mean that you are moving the motor around?
If so its more likely to be the switch within the motor thats lost its spring return
this switches in and out of the starting capacitor
spinning the spindle will still help it start if its the switch or cap

caps failure usually is accompanied by smoke, smell or physical damage to cap

Ian

 

[CHJ]

If so its more likely to be the switch within the motor thats lost its spring return
this switches in and out of the starting capacitor

I doubt very much that the sip lathe has a centrifugal starter switch motor on it, this lathe and all its clones to my knowledge have simple start/run capacitors permanently in circuit.

 

[Dino]

The actual lathe

When I said I took the headstock off I meant I took it off to clean the inside and see what was going on (thought the belt might be lose) and it happened to actually run when I did that.

I'll open it up over the weekend and have a look.

 

[CHJ]

That version of the Reeves drive needs regular maintenance if you are to avoid mechanical failure at some time, on my old Perform lathe which had reasonably heavy use it needed a refresh about once a month.

• 1. Clean out all dust and any belt debris.
  2. Grease the motor drive spindle, (grease nipple in end of motor shaft)
  3. Check all headstock spindle speed adjustment linkages for loose couplings, grub screws etc.
  4. Apply dry lubricant (PTFE) to the headstock spindle shaft and moving joints.
  5. Run Lathe and operate speed adjustment through range and check spring loaded motor pulley halves respond smoothly.

If the motor turns freely by hand then Capacitor is the most likely culprit.

 

[Dino]

You're all amazing. Thanks folks.

 

[Woodmonkey]

Hi Dino, sorry to hear the old girl is struggling a bit. I do recall the same problem a few years ago and it was indeed just a case of changing the capacitor which sorted the problem.

 

[Dino]

I'll take a look at it after christmas. I have a more pressing issue now which is that it seems my chuck is actually stuck on the headstock. No idea how to get it off.

 

[Woodmonkey]

Grip a bar or long spanner in the jaws of the chuck, that will give you the leverage you need

 

[wizard]

To remove a chuck i put a very large allen key in it then whack the allen key

 

[Dino]

I need something to hold the headstock spindle in place first as that is the part that is slipping (it bent the thin wrench I was using).

I need to turn it clockwise, correct? I'll get a better wrench tomorrow that should do the holding better.

 

[finneyb]

Grip a bar or long spanner in the jaws of the chuck, that will give you the leverage you need

I'm not sure there is spindle lock.
If you can't lock or hold tight the spindle, try fast repeated gentle taps on the bar or spanner.

Brian

 

[Robbo3]

Looking at the headstock from the tailstock end, the chuck unscrews anti-clockwise.

As said previously, lock the spindle with a spanner so that it catches on the bed. Place a length of metal or wood across the face of the chuck in the gaps between the jaws, to which you can then apply force with a sharp rap with a hammer or mallet.
Once the chuck is off, cut out & use a washer from a plastic milk carton. This is frowned on by the metal working community but they don't seem to offer an easier solution.

Edit: That sounds a bit catty. It wasn't meant to be.

 

[CHJ]

....Once the chuck is off, cut out & use a washer from a plastic milk carton. This is frowned on by the metal working community but they don't seem to offer an easier solution.

Even a thin card washer soaked in finishing wax will do the same and stops the chuck wedging tight on the spindle face.

Dino, whatever you do, do not try and wedge the spindle by holding or jamming the drive pulleys, they are made of cheap die cast material and will shatter.