Hello
I wouldn't say there is much involved to convert a
dual voltage motor (provided you see 240v on the
motor nameplate)
and very very cost effective to go the VFD/inverter route for something that's say 3hp.
The cost goes up when approaching 5hp rated VFD's/inverters.
There are different HP motors on those machines from what I've seen,
4 and 5 hp motors which maybe a bit oversized for the machine, (have no knowledge about how hefty the components are which motor has to drive)
My Startrite 275 has a 3hp/2.2kw motor and is about the max for my 13a household plug.
If you have the same supply then you need to at least look into VFDs and make sure you get one which can de-rate the HP/KW
and on top of that, need to ask whether a derated motor draws equal juice as say a 3hp machine would,
and also whether the cheapie VFD/inverters can do this reliably.
Say the machine has a 5hp motor, and you have 16a "commando" blue sockets installed,
then less complicated affair.
I can derate motors with my 3hp rated "huanyang" drive, and have done so testing a 2hp motor
but whether that was achieved or not, I have no idea whether it worked, probably could find that out now with me new smart meter which the leccy company fitted recently nationwide.
I presume you need to match the original HP of the motor with appropriately rated VFD if you want to derate to 3hp.
Some companies like Hitachi reckon you should have an oversize drive anyway.
I'll bet even the cheapies start getting pricey at 5hp, not to mention a fancy brand drive.
You will have to visit "The other place 2" and find Bob's induction motor PDF which is the best read I've read on the subject, concerning motors VFD's and switchgear.
Its a must to have this info IMO
(and not some content creators on utoob who get free stuff and obliviously dangerous,
like Marius who doesn't consider the output from these still remains LIVE for quite a while due to the capacitors storing lethal charge (and no fuse inbetween to save you!)
Read Bobs induction motor document you can get the google document link on the other UK woodworking forum ending with "2"
I believe there are only three so shouldn't be some secret.
Plenty of folks here running/converted old Startrite 275 tilt arbor machines via VFD/inverter those machines which are very popular,
and you could get one of those up and running for very little,
Around a hundred quid for a VFD to suit, and the rest is about a tenner for odds and ends,
buttons like start and stop are about 3 quid each, crimp terminals a pound or two,
all cheap really.
You need a box to suit VFD, you can make one for nothing if you like,
or find something suitable instead.
Not sure if that machine may be as suitable to do some "cost effective" conversion compared to something with a smaller motor like 3hp
that term is relative to ones wallet.
Regarding "much involved" may depend on that too.
Picture of dual voltage motor which can be run from 240 volts (low voltage "delta" configuration)
which often has a triangle symbol rather than a "D"
You will need to see evidence of this low voltage option for something plug and play.
Ps you will get all the help all day long, every step of the way if you read Bob's write up,
and if you don't bother looking, you will likely get no help from anyone.
You don't need to understand it just yet, but it shows consideration for both human life and machine, and everything can be broken down into mouthfuls which are easily understandable, and no need to be an electrical engineer to achieve.
Most of the applicable stuff regarding using a VFD/inverter on a tablesaw is fairly basic, but there are rules to abide by which simply cant be ignored.
All the best
Tom
