Shelving units 18 feet long by 5 feet high

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Andrew1

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Hi, looking for some advice on shelving units in the garage/ workshop. I have a run of approx 18 feet long above my bench, including a 90 return on the end. Was looking at putting shelving, multiple levels above bench which is 635 deep. In certain areas I can only go 300 deep. My real question is I want it to be practical but necessarily with doors along the length. What would you recommend for joints if I have uprights every three feet, giving six sections. Any ideas more than welcome or images of what other people have done
 
Just curious to know how you will be accessing the top half of the cabinets? Will you ever need to run dust collection ductwork across that space and will you need any drops down to the benches below? Are you planning to make them from MDF, plywood or solid wood? That choice will influence the joinery recommendations? Fixed shelves or adjustable? What is the structure of the walls? That will influence the attachment and the amount of weight you can put in the cabinets.

Pete
 
Hi inspector, thanks for coming back
Happy to use steps for the top level shelves, as I have some old kitchens at present above some of the bench, and currently use steps. All equipment is in other side of garage so no need for drops or dust, will just put some lighting under shelves. I was thinking ply, as opposed to MDF, fixed positio. Walls are high density concrete block, so good for fixings. Shelving is purely for storage of varnish, glues, fixings, some small lumber, hand tools etc. I also build RC boats from scratch so have loads of small items in totes to go on the shelves. Totes are circa, 10x6x6
 
Do you ever sand on your bench? If you do having a backdraft hood to the DC would be nice even if you have the sanders hooked to a vacuum cleaner.

Joinery is going to be your choice based on the tools you have and your comfort with them influenced by your preferences. On this side of the pond I wouldn't hesitate to dado it all with the table saw. You gents prefer routers which would be way lower on my list of methods. I would also not hesitate to use my biscuit joiner for it either. They are very strong and quick and easy. Needless to say if I had a Domino, that would get used. You can go quick and dirty by glueing and screwing the heck out of it. (hammer)

Pete
 
Hi, just about to build a sanding box, on the list of jobs to do. Probably think I would go dado with the router, think I can get away with 1/2 inch shelf, about 36 inch wide set into 3/4 inch ply, glue and pin
 
With 1/2" I would put at least 1 1/4" solid edge on the front and back of the shelves or they may sag even when lightly loaded. My kitchen has 5/8" shelves that are 30" wide and they are far from strong enough. We don't have a lot on them and if we did they would sag for sure. A shelf full of screws,nuts, and bolts is very heavy and I doubt you will be spreading things evenly across the 18' to evenly distribute the weight. We tend to cluster things together for convenience and not give weight any thought.

Pete
 
Hi Pete, yes really good point, so dado into uprights and dado across the front and rear into 1 and 1/4 solid stock,
 
You won't need a strip across the back if you are supporting the back edge of the shelf in a dado. Just across the front. Or use thicker plywood for the shelves if the cost isn't too much more than the 1/2" and you want to get it built faster.

Pete
 
Just remember that shelves hold dust. Lots of very dusty stuff just above your head might not be the best, health wise. #-o
 
Well Bob would't the doors go a long way towards stopping that? :roll: Not to mention if the shop is big enough for an 18' long set of cabinets Andrew has a BIG cyclone dust collector to grab all the fine dust as he makes it so it doesn't go floating around the shop. :wink:

Pete
 
That was my point. A shelf with a door is not a shelf, its a cupboard. #-o

And hasnt any one ever told you size is not important? :shock:
I read the posts of many people who have double and triple garage workshops, but believe they are immune to dust related diseases.

My little workshop has shelves (I cant afford to turn them into cupboards), but i only put stuff on them that I use a lot, so the items are continuosly moved around (while I'm wearing my dust mask of course) 8) Anything in long term storage goes below the bench.
 
Hi, yes is double garage, and hadn’t thought about dusty shelves above my head. Plan was just to be able to see and get to stuff without having to keep opening closing cupboards all the time. Under the run of benches I have 600x 400x 300mm totes, 2 high on floor and then 1 high on shelf in benches.
 
Ah, I misread the first post as making doors for the project too.

I was serious about the need for a big dust collector because it is absolutely essential to capture that sub-micron dust as it is made. That's why I am putting in a 5hp Cyclone with 3000 sq ft of filter area (12 cartridges of half micron) that will move a real 2000CFM for a shop that is the same area as the two car garage below it. I also have a particle counter to monitor the air so I know if if the DC isn't capturing the fine dust for any of the operations I may be doing or if it is leaking somewhere, both of which I'll correct. Summertime I can open the windows or go outside but this time of the year is too cold so the air must be kept clean to begin with. The picture below should explain it better. :ho2
 

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Unfortunately my available space for extraction is the same as my available cash for purchase, not very much! :shock:
But fortunately, I can work with both end doors open most of the year. Even in winter I can normally open one end so the very fine dust is not as big a problem as in a closed room. But i have a cyclone on a 50 litre can and another 30 litre bag on the chip extractor. I will experiment with a loosely held bin liner around the bag and see if I can capture more finer stuff that way.
 
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