Quantcast
  • We invite you to join UKWorkshop.
    Members can turn off viewing Ads!

Shelving construction help

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

crispy70

Member
Joined
13 Jan 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
RG22 5NL
Hi guys,

First post so be gentle. Quick background. I am an engineer (electronics/telecoms) relatively competent DIY guy, fitted my own kitchens and bathrooms etc.

I have enjoyed tinkering away in my garage during lockdown, making a workbench, French cleat wall and drill table, and a few other bits, and it's given me a bit of a wood working bug. To make a bit more space I would now like to build some overhead shelves/cupboards to free up some floor space and I would love some advice or help on their construction if possible.

15 years ago I made a crude attempt as can be seen in the dead space above my garage door. Ideally, I would like to carry that along one side eating into about a 1/3 (80)cm of the width of the garage roof width. (where the green baskets are hanging and a bit lower). My aim long term is for me to make some doors and for them to look reasonable, but for now, it needs to be a functional space to clear some space which I can add doors to in the future.

The rafters are spaced roughly 50cm apart and I intended to hang down some supports from these, as in the crude attempt already there.

The total length will 3.6m, depth 80cm, height from the ceiling about 35-40cm

Full length…I intended to brace the back along the wall with CLS, the same at the front of the shelves and maybe one more support in the middle if needed? Covering the depth roughly of the green baskets (80cm).

The rafters are spaced roughly 45cm apart and I intended to hang down some supports from these, as in the crude attempt already there.

Q1 Lengthwise, can I span 2 rafters wasting less space on the uprights, I guess that would need a middle full length.

Q2 what timber / CLS do you recommend for the frame.

Q3 To keep the weight down I intended to use 12mm chipboard for the shelves.

Q4 is there a better way to install the hanging support as I did years ago?

Q5 As I will be stuck with a void under each span/shelve, could I increase the height of that timber and create some boxes underneath that pivot down (in the future)?

Sorry for the waffle, it's way harder than I thought trying to type and explain something. I have included some pictures which hopefully will make it a bit clearer.

Please feel free to insult and modify my plans, I am open to anything.

Thanks in advance
Chris
IMG_20210113_164914.jpg

IMG_20210113_165925.jpg

IMG_20210113_165111.jpg


PS the cable hanging down is dead!!!
 

Attachments

Jameshow

Established Member
Joined
4 Oct 2020
Messages
395
Reaction score
209
Location
Bradford
I'd use 2" timber the same size as the joists.

You could use strapping band looped over the joists and nailed to the uprights thus keeping it online with the joists.

I'd use 3/8" ply rather than 1/2" chipboard as its lighter and stronger.

Not sure what you mean about filling the voids

Nice use of shopping boxes I have a few. Sommerfeld I think!!!

Cheers James
 

crispy70

Member
Joined
13 Jan 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
RG22 5NL
I'd use 2" timber the same size as the joists.

You could use strapping band looped over the joists and nailed to the uprights thus keeping it online with the joists.

I'd use 3/8" ply rather than 1/2" chipboard as its lighter and stronger.

Not sure what you mean about filling the voids

Nice use of shopping boxes I have a few. Sommerfeld I think!!!

Cheers James
Cheers James, thanks for talking the time to reply.
do you think 2" x 2" will be ok to use?
I would really like to skip uprights on every other joist if possible, just to make the most use of the room with a wider opening
That would leave a shelf span of approx 90 cm wide 80 cm deep. The rear of the shelf could be fully supported along the whole of the back wall.
Do you think I will have to have support across the front and maybe the middle of the shelf? IE all of the way along the front like the rear?
Where if anywhere should I beef up?
I hope all that waffle makes sense
 

crispy70

Member
Joined
13 Jan 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
RG22 5NL
also, can you post a picture or a link to the strapping you mean, that sounds like a great option but I have no idea what the product is..
Cheers,
Chris
 

Jameshow

Established Member
Joined
4 Oct 2020
Messages
395
Reaction score
209
Location
Bradford

This sort of stuff. You can also get wall plate tie down plates which are usually 3mm thick....


Cheers James
 

Cabinetman

Established Member
Joined
5 Jan 2017
Messages
1,005
Reaction score
465
Location
Caistor lincolnshire
That strapping stuff that James recommends is really handy, as you want to miss out intermediate supports I would go up to 38 x 62 CLS and 18 mil ply, you could then almost have one support for three bays. But it does really depend on what you’re going to put on it, if it’s a collection of rows and rows of cast-iron vices you might need to upgrade it lol. Ian
 

Robbo60

Established Member
Joined
20 Aug 2020
Messages
108
Reaction score
29
Location
Notts
law of Physics (I think) "you cannot increase or decrease mass by rearranging form" or something like that. (I left Physics alone 46 years ago) So first thing is.... buy a shed and get the bikes and golf clubs out of YOUR workshop. Space created. Don't know anything about the other stuff but I/d never thought of putting a shelf above garage door - thanks for that
 

mr rusty

Established Member
Joined
8 Jul 2017
Messages
104
Reaction score
21
Location
chorley
Strap bands every time for garage storage. Fastened to the side of the joists/trusses, piece of batten timber across two straps fastened to the short sections and planks between pairs of straps. Super strong and ultra cheap and easy. BTW strap bands are available in two thicknesses - you don't need the thick 3mm ones!
 

crispy70

Member
Joined
13 Jan 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
RG22 5NL
That strapping stuff that James recommends is really handy, as you want to miss out intermediate supports I would go up to 38 x 62 CLS and 18 mil ply, you could then almost have one support for three bays. But it does really depend on what you’re going to put on it, if it’s a collection of rows and rows of cast-iron vices you might need to upgrade it lol. Ian
thanks, mate, I am struggling to get my head around where you use these straps
 

crispy70

Member
Joined
13 Jan 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
RG22 5NL
Strap bands every time for garage storage. Fastened to the side of the joists/trusses, piece of batten timber across two straps fastened to the short sections and planks between pairs of straps. Super strong and ultra cheap and easy. BTW strap bands are available in two thicknesses - you don't need the thick 3mm ones!
thanks, mate as I mentioned above I am struggling to get my head around where you use these straps. Can I hang the upright supports by adding these straps to the joints and have the uprights strapped "inline" ie, no wood screwed together?
 

crispy70

Member
Joined
13 Jan 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
RG22 5NL
law of Physics (I think) "you cannot increase or decrease mass by rearranging form" or something like that. (I left Physics alone 46 years ago) So first thing is.... buy a shed and get the bikes and golf clubs out of YOUR workshop. Space created. Don't know anything about the other stuff but I/d never thought of putting a shelf above garage door - thanks for that
you are welcome lol. good shout on the shed!!
 

Cabinetman

Established Member
Joined
5 Jan 2017
Messages
1,005
Reaction score
465
Location
Caistor lincolnshire
thanks, mate as I mentioned above I am struggling to get my head around where you use these straps. Can I hang the upright supports by adding these straps to the joints and have the uprights strapped "inline" ie, no wood screwed together?
Hi crispy, well it depends as I said earlier what you’re about to put on the shelf, if you want the ultimate strength the strap should go over the top of the wood you’re hanging from and then fasten either side of the vertical/upright support. Just had another look at your photos, fastening to the six-inch joists, ignore what I just said and screw straight into the side of the joists and bring the straps down on both sides and screw into the vertical/upright support.
 

Jameshow

Established Member
Joined
4 Oct 2020
Messages
395
Reaction score
209
Location
Bradford
If you can ease the roofing material up a inch you can then push the banding up over the joist and back down the other side. If not you could put them each side not as robust tbh. I'd use jointing plates in that case. 6" X3" and nail in.

Cheers James
 
Top