Shellac Finish

[garethharvey]

Just about to finish some Padauk with Shellac. Only issue is, I have never used Shellac and have no idea where to start.

I found this post about Padauk and this seems to be the best option: http://www.woodworkerssource.com/bl...sh-african-padauk-wood-to-preserve-the-color/

Any idea where I start, what I buy?

 

[marcros]

The article says dewaxed blonde shellac. I buy mine from https://www.dictum.com/en/surfaces/surf ... 97_1_48_12

the exchange rate has changed a bit since I did so- other places may be cheaper now.

If it is a small one off job, then you may want to look at the BLO or tung finishes- after the light exposure, I am struggling to tell the difference between the 3 and oil will be easier to apply, more readily available etc. it does depend on what you are finishing and what you are looking for in the finish.

 

[marcros]

ps i am just going on the article. I have not used padauk before

 

[garethharvey]

Thanks, I am building a clock like this one: http://www.eddarchuk.com/clock-2.html

Happy to use an alternative but need a tough long lasting finish.

 

[Alexam]

gareth, don't forget to ytake loads of photos as you progress and post then here so we can see the progress. That clock looks great and I saw the build video somew time ago, somewhere and it was facinating. Good luck with that.

I have used Paduk and its a nice wood, but I used ordinanry shelac to seal it after sanding and it seemed fine.
Malcolm

 

[profchris]

This is padauk:

And this is what I wrote (elsewhere) at the time:

Tru-Oil won't dry on it in any sensible time scale. Shellac sticks OK, but the colour keeps leaching out (presumably dissolved by the alcohol) and so shellac doesn't want to polish to a shine. My eventual solution was enough shellac to seal the colour in, leave it a week to cure and form a barrier, and finally Tru-Oil over the top.

Given the interesting shape and intricate mouldings of your clock, I'd plan to use clear shellac (the Liberon blonde ready-mix, in bottle not can, works nicely for me) and then put something like Tru-Oil on top for your final coats. Levelling the finish will be really difficult so I'd wipe these coats on with a paper towel. Probably three or four coats of shellac, allowing 24 hours drying between each, sand lightly between coats, wait a week, sand lightly again, and then as much Tru-Oil as is needed to get your desired finish (the uke was I think 2 coats).

The drying time is important - for most woods I'd wipe on three, maybe even four coats of shellac in a day, but not padauk!

 

[thetyreman]

I make my own shellac, liberon's shellac flakes have been good so far, a small amount should last a very long time, you could use mentholated spirits or 99.9% alcohol, I use the latter and it gives me very good results.

 

[garethharvey]

Given the base a coat of shellac, I put this on with a rag. This was mixed to 1Lb cut. So far this has had 2 coats

First time I have ever used Shellac. :shock:

 

[profchris]

First time I have ever used Shellac.

Bet it's not the last!

Two or three coats, lightly sanded, and you can put pretty much anything you like on top.

Near-finished surface which might get dirty or needs protection from gentle knocks? Wipe on a couple of coats, they'll sand or scrape off in the final finishing.

Trying to get a sharp edge but the wood is a bit fragile? Dab on a coat or two to stabilise the surface.

Or just keep adding shellac for a finish which is a deep (but not high) gloss and looks more natural than almost any other.

Plus shellac is edible (it's the coating on those Minstrels chocolates which some might remember from the cinema), although I'd go easy on the meths you're mixing it with!