Sheet Goods cutting table - Knock down

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Mr_Mickey_D

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Evening all

I've got a couple of built-in cabinet projects comming up so treating myself to a track saw. I could do with an appropriate table to cut on though - something large enough for a full 8*4 sheet, but not permanently fill the workshop. Those Paulk torsion boxes look like they could be useful, but i dont really space/use for it longterm.

So i was thinking about perhaps a bunch of 6 inch rips of 18mm mdf/ply, notched out to interlock at right angles - making a lattice... this could just lay on tressels for the duration of the project, then be knocked done taped together and tucked away untill the next sheet project. It would be relatively cheap, at just one sheet, and I wont mind if the cut depth was incorrectly set for my workpiece atop and i cut into it

Just started learning sketch-up, so forgive the technical drawing of something so basic! - something like this:

Cutting Table 1.JPG


Cutting Table 2.JPG



What do you think? Useful? Over the top?
Would welcome some input
Thanks
Mick
 
If you have some nice level ground to put your trestles on, (or you have some fancy adjustable trestles), I can't see any reason it wouldn't work. Probably going to need a second pair of hands to assemble it.
 
I use something on a smaller scale that sits on my workbench when cutting up 8 x 4 sheets, will take a photo later if I get chance.

My only comment on your design would be I don't think you need as many pieces in for support, you could probably get away with bigger gaps.

This is what you need, typical Festool product, unique and a premium price. Would work brilliantly for me but I can't justify the £1000+ price :(

 
I have something similar to that but made of of straight CLS studwork that I put on a couple of trestles. I usually lay a sheet of foam insulation on top but not always. Works fine for me.
 
Make the length ways ones deeper than the width ones say 10" Vs 6"

cheers James
 
I don't see any significant problems with the design, other than how to assemble it, as @pcb1962 mentioned. There are too many pieces to manage simultaneously for one person to do this.

I would rethink the orientation of the notches in order to make assembly and disassembly easier. For example, the notches should be laid out so the two outer long and two shorter end sections can be assembled by one person one corner at a time. Once the outer frame is assembled, the longitudinal and cross pieces can be inserted and removed from above. The change would apply to the inner notches of the two short pieces at either end, as well as the ends of the two inner long pieces.
 
(oh dear - I just re-read my post and you can certainly tell it was past my bedtime when i wrote that! Sorry for the poor spelling, missing words, etc! That said - you seemed to have caught my drift just fine)

Many thanks for your feedback. I hadn't thought about the issue of assembly on my todd (though the boyo can be handy when bribed with Haribo)

Doug - you're a bad man putting those sorts of Festool ideas in my head! A pic of your setup would be ace - thanks.

I like the Sore Hoarses MkII - neat concept with the slot in legs too.

I'll have a think about orientation of the slots to aid assembly and the spacing of the rails.

Cheers
Mick
 
Hi, I am with the last two responses. I have two saw horses (Axminster) with 2 of 2x4 and stabilised with two cross pieces. The top is MDF with two more slim pieces of MDF to act as stops to stop it sliding off. The MDF top has some MFT holes to assist in cutting. It is really stable and I use it in the car port where it is stored rather than need the space in my garage/workshop.
Two minutes to assemble and then it’s secured against the wall when not in use.
Pat
 
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