shed extension

[wallace]

Hi all, since getting my new sawbench I have really struggled to use it and make anything in my workshop. So have decided to extend. My original workshop is built in trench blocks but I cant afford to extend useing this method, so have decided to ad abit in wood. The plan is to have the old bit for machine work and the new bit purely for putting stuff together. Thats the plan anyway. Heres the gap I will be filling, its always been a bit of a dead space with no real purpose and just accumulated junk. I have removed the branches from the conifers, I did not realise their was so much room back their, I think their must be another 3m behind my workshop.

Mark

 

[Grahamshed]

A good bit of useful space. Are you going to replace the window with doors ? How do you intend to join the two buildings ?

 

[wallace]

Hi Graham, the plan is to reuse the window in the front. I was going to put the saw bench near the opening which will join shops and then I will be able to rip long lengths. To join I was just going to rawl bolt or thunderbolt the front and back sections to the blockwork.
Mark

 

[wallace]

I got some ply today but am alitle dissapointed at the quality of the stuff. Its supposed to be exterior grade? Its not the usual stuff I've used for exterior use. What do people think?

There was only one sheet with any markings on

The stuff thats supposed to be 18mm turns out to be 16mm

Mark

 

[deserter]

That's definitely labeled as WBP Exterior, but it is also C faced on both front and back to the best of my knowledge C is the lowest grade for ply veneers so basically you have a WBP ply with crapy faces. Otherwise known as shuttering ply.


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~

 

[wallace]

Thanks for that, is it normal for 18mm to come as 16mm? I suppose I cant grumble is was quite cheap. I wish I'd gone to my other source I could of got 18mm hardwood surfaced for £20 a sheet.

 

[deserter]

I've found the thickness of ply to vary hugely in the past couple of years, it seams that +/-3mm is quite normal now. It seems timber is the only place weights and measures has no meaning.


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~

 

[wallace]

I have done some work over the last couple of days. I made the floor from 6"by2" and started to cover the underside with 12mm ply. I'm pleased I have one of those nail guns it would have taken ages to screw all of the sheets down. The problem I have now is how to flip it over?

I'm going to fill with insulation and then cover with 18mm ply.
Mark

 

[wallace]

Todays efforts, managed to flip the floor over by useing the block a tackle. And then filled the floor with insulation and topped off with 18mm ply.

On the underneath I have put some visqueen, a friend says its a bad idea. He believes the wood won't be able to breathe what do people think?

Mark

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I believe the point of visqueen is that it is micro porous, so as long as you've not used it upside down, good.

 

[wallace]

Hi Phill, I wasn't aware visqueen had a correct way (hammer) . I thought it was competely impurvious

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I used a similar product on my workshop and it was marked on one side, the idea being that moisture inside can get out but that if anything gets through the tiles it just runs off and into the guttering.
This is as far as I know, no doubt someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Tom K]

Nah visqueen is just poly sheet no marking no up or down. You might be thinking of Tyvek or one of its clones.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Nah visqueen is just poly sheet no marking no up or down. You might be thinking of Tyvek or one of its clones.

Yes, sorry, you're 100% correct. I wasn't 100% sure, I was thinking of Tyvek.

 

[wallace]

So what do ya think. Keep the plastic or treat the ply and leave?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

assuming you're not going to totally seal everything else, it shouldn't cause any problem.

 

[Tom K]

So what do ya think. Keep the plastic or treat the ply and leave?

Treat the ply and leave think the Visqueen will end up holding water.

 

[wallace]

Thanks for opinnions. Todays efforts, got the back built and in place.

 

[wallace]

I got the front frame made and up today.

I got some redwood cladding to cover the bits that can be seen. I worked out what the area was minus the window and went to the merchants. I asked him to check it and he said I better get more just incase. He worked it out that I'd need an extra £25 worth. I bet they wont take the leftover lengths back

 

[wallace]

Had quite a productive couple of days, Got the roof on and felted. I messed up with roof joist thickness, I used 6"by2" but I should have gone for 8" because they are quite springy. I used 6" for my last workshop but that was reclaimed old stuff and seemed much better quality than this regularised stuff. To help improve things I have sandwiched each length with ply which has stiffend things up alot.

I also put the window in and covered with cladding, I used stainless screws

Mark