sharpening

[musomaniac]

with me being still a complete novice to turning , my tools are still all sharp apart from one i've been using for the pen blanks , and thats a skew chisel i think
i also bought this robert sorby bowl gouge ?? for a tenner ........but as you can see in the photos its needing sharpening , i have a bench grinder , and a belt disc sander , which one would be the best for sharpening , and what jigs would i require building or purchasing

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'm pretty sure that's a spindle roughing gouge. You are likely to do yourself an injury if you use it on a bowl. It'as a useful tool, though. It should be ground straight across at about 45 degrees. A picture end on would verify it.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

it is a roughing gouge...note the tang as it disappears into the handle. On no account is that safe to use on face grain work. The tang isn't designed to withstand the forces in play and could snap at any time. How many pictures have we seen on this forum of bent or broken gouges used incorrectly in this way so only use for taking square spindle stock into round.

Bowl gouges and shallow fluted spindle gouges are solid steel all the way along ie the bit in the handle is exactly the same profile as the steel sticking out. Much stronger.

 

[Mark Hancock]

It looks to me like a continental gouge, used as we would a spindle roughing gouge, but ground with a slight curve to the cutting edge and not straight across and an angle of about 30 degrees. It's already been correctly stated above that it should never be used on cross grained timber.

Just out of interest the kangaroo symbol makes reference to the Kangaroo Works http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/companyinfo.htm

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Mark, Yes. We can't really see the depth. That's why I suggested an end on picture. Bob - you're correct on modern tools, but I have a bowl gouge with a tang - a tang doesn't necessarily mean it isn't a bowl gouge.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

I agree with Mark, it's a continental spindle gouge and should have a slight curve on the end. I have one and mine is ground with a bevel around 40° but that's just my preference. The bevel angle depends on many factors.

Being an older model, yours is probably high carbon steel. Here's a link to the modern equivalent which is high speed steel.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Carbon steel, good point - don't burn it while grinding. HSS - don't quench it.

 

[musomaniac]

end on photo , just goes to show i dont even know the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge yet

 

[musomaniac]

ok so now i know its a spindle gouge , how do i go about sharpening it , and the others , do you use a jig , made or bought
can someone provide a pic or plan of a suitable jig , and what would be considered the best machine , a belt disc sander , or the bench grinder

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Read this entire thread.

 

[woodpig]

Read this entire thread.

Oh Bob, that's not fair! (hammer) He'll take ages trawling through that! :lol:

 

[musomaniac]

jeez that thread goes on and on , and i cant afford a pro edge

 

[Mark Hancock]

ok so now i know its a spindle gouge , how do i go about sharpening it ,

The bevel angle and curvature look okay so set the tool rest on your grinder so that the bevel of the tool makes full contact (look from the side). Then keeping the bevel in contact simply move the handle in an arch. Sparks should move from the cutting edge down the flute of the tool if done correctly. Try it first with the grinder static to get a feel for the movement required.

 

[musomaniac]

well thats the end of the spindle gouge , i have totally destroyed the end , i set the toolrest at what i thought was 45° without using the bevel on the gouge as a reference , and started to grind away
it now has a huge long shallow bevel , i think the only way to rectify it is to hacksaw the end off and start again , or put it in the bin ](*,)

 

[Dalboy]

well thats the end of the spindle gouge , i have totally destroyed the end , i set the toolrest at what i thought was 45° without using the bevel on the gouge as a reference , and started to grind away
it now has a huge long shallow bevel , i think the only way to rectify it is to hacksaw the end off and start again , or put it in the bin ](*,)

Regrind it to the correct angle just don't overheat while doing so. Have a look at THIS it is a home made sharpening system it may help you a little

 

[Jacob]

If you get into the habit of simply looking at the end of your tool as you sharpen it you will find that you can get close enough to 45º (or any angle) without a jig, and with a bit of practice it'll be quicker and cheaper.
I know this sounds impossible but that's how everybody did it until recently, including beginners believe it of not!

A belt sander is much easier and more controllable than a small bench grinder but make sure it's dust free or there is a fire risk.
Hint - if you want an angle of say about 40º hold the tool at about 40º to the belt. :lol:

 

[KimG]

It's pretty ancient really, you don't see spindle gouges made that way much now, I have one and I rarely use it, the modern spindle gouge has a round section steel bar and pretty much all of them are HSS these days, which is easier to sharpen (in so far as you don't need to be quite so wary of it colouring) and easier to use too. I wouldn't worry too much about this one, get a decent new 1/2" one and either read about, make and learn to use Keith Rowley's sharpening jig, or buy something like the sorby jig, either will make sharpening your tools a lot easier.

 

[woodpig]

If you get into the habit of simply looking at the end of your tool.

:shock: :? 8) :lol:

 

[Paul Hannaby]

I wouldn't use a jig for sharpening this type of tool, just an adjustable table so it can be set to give the correct bevel angle.

Even if you have already messed up the grind it shouldn't be too difficult to recover it. Just grind a little at a time from the areas needed to get back to the slight curve on the end. Before long you will get close to where you need to be and then all that's needed is to smooth out the overall shape.