- 7 Aug 2003
- Reaction score
Do a search for my belt sander grinder jig. I use the sanding disk for stropping/final honing. I much prefer honing on a flat disk to a wheel since there is less risk of dubbing an edge. My current honing disk is made out of a hook-and-look sanding disk with a glued on layer of chamois leather. I use Veritas green rouge on this. It is just fantastic and, if you get the opportunity to try this out, do it. You will not be disappointed.I will be making a stroping device to put in my bench drill on which I will use autosol or a metal polisher soap. I used to use a leather strop with a green soap but have decided that the Shapton 6000 is superior.
The "black type of scum" is the steel filings that were previously part of your blade. Abrasive materials have a habit of attacking steel thingies this way . Best that you do not do this any more. Alternatively, you can just wipe it off with a bit of water.when using some metals on some japanese water stones there seems to be a black type of scum developed on the stone. what is this and how do we avoid it.
Try the new LV Honing Guide!many new tools do not seem too square either so as well as getting them straight and sharp, does anyone have a quick and cheerful jig for ensuring the cutting face is square????
Mmm. The #93 is a shoulder plane with a straight blade, the #39 (in case you are reversed the numbers) is a dado plane, also with a straight blade.. do you want to check that number again ... #45, #50, #55 ..?have a stanley 93 plough plane, any bright ideas on how to sharpen the inner curves on the beading cutters???
Welcome, Paul, and ask away.engineer one":1yuzra47 said:hi there i'm new here... am still left with some questions.
That one's been covered.engineer one":1yuzra47 said:
While amused at the obvious responses, you might also be having trouble with mould on your stones maybe? I don't use them, but I think a drop of bleach in your stone pond is supposed to help?engineer one":1yuzra47 said:2/ when using some metals on some japanese water stones there seems to be a black type of scum developed on the stone. what is this and how do we avoid it.
I don't, so "pass"engineer one":1yuzra47 said:3/ i have a tormek
Just out of interest, what grit?engineer one":1yuzra47 said:4/ i find that using a king stone after an initial hone on the leather wheel gets a better and smoother rear surface, good mirror!!!
Wouldn't help anyway - they'd be in Japanese... :wink:engineer one":1yuzra47 said:5/ why do suppliers of water stones not give some info within their items for first time users? whatever else you say about DMT, they always give some advice.
Sloppy nomenclature. :roll:engineer one":1yuzra47 said:6/ final thought for this time, lots of talk in mags about flattening planes etc using "sand paper", don't really understand this since surely metal should be flattened with metal working papers, ie emery and wet and dry?
Wet 'n' Dry for fine grades. Try Aluminium Zirconia belts for coarser grits if you have a lot of material to remove.engineer one":1yuzra47 said:in my experience many of the silicon oxide papers have very large grit.
other problem is of course how do you decide which grits relate to each other seems every country has its own standard.
I think we have a model number typo, but for beading cutters a slip stone or abrasive wrapped round an appropriately sized dowel - use a curve slightly tighter than the cutter and try to avoid making a secondary bevel.engineer one":1yuzra47 said:7. whoops, forgot. have a stanley 93 plough plane, any bright ideas on how to sharpen the inner curves on the beading cutters???
I recommend a LONG dowel - the length makes the angle much more controllable. Any one who can sharpen with a 2" slip stone and not dub the bevel is a genius!I think we have a model number typo, but for beading cutters a slip stone or abrasive wrapped round an appropriately sized dowel - use a curve slightly tighter than the cutter and try to avoid making a secondary bevel.
Why, thank y-bugbear":jk5z5ylw said:Any one who can sharpen with a 2" slip stone and not dub the bevel is a genius!
Nobody's perfect, Mike... :lol:MikeW":fmqhy8lc said:Not that I'm BB...
Yeah, pretty much what I do. Although sometimes I get a better result with the abrasive in the vice and taking the blade to it. Seems to vary from one time to another, which I can't explain at all. :roll:MikeW":fmqhy8lc said:Once the profile is sharpened--I hold the blade, profile up, in my carvers vice with its edge pointing towards me and usually use a set of DMT conical diamond hones or a plain stone into the edge of the blade