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Sharpening Stuff

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Philly

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Hi All,
I have posted some pics of the stuff I use when sharpening chisels and plane irons. Take a look.

http://groups.msn.com/ukwoodworking/sha ... stuff.msnw

I know a lot of you the Tormek but I get fantasic results quickly and easily using this gear.
(I sharpened the blade of my #62 last night-this is not a gloat, it just happens to be what I was shapening. Honest :lol: )
Take a look-I'd be interested to hear of any other methods that you use.
regards,
Philly :D
 
A

Anonymous

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Hi Philly


Turns out that I do exactly the same as you - even use the 1000/6000 + Nagura!!

Only small difference is that stick wet 'n' dry on to a piece of 3/4" thick steel plate tha ta local machine chop flattened for my

Works a treat, with a very nice edge.

Cheers

Tony
 

Philly

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Nice one Tony,
I picked up a granite tile from Wickes (£6). I "mapped" the surface using a straight edge and feeler gauges. Most of the top if flatter than 0.0015, which I reckon is good enough. The results speak for themselves.
You can't beat that 6000 waterstones for a final polish though!
Cheers
Philly :D
 

gidon

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Philly
Very similiar to my set up - except I use plate glass with wet and dry up to 1200 / 2000 (depending how I'm feeling) and then switch to a 6000 Japanese waterstone. Which I agree gives a quite magical polish.
I would quite like to follow some advice I saw in popular woodworking, where he used a coarse diamond stone (good ones expensive though) to flatten his water stones and for initial sharpening - and then moved to 1000/6000/8000 grit waterstones. But this method gives me excellent results - if a little faffy sometimes with cutting up paper etc.
Anyone seen the review of the new sharpening systems in Popular woodworking this month - including the Veritas Mk II?
Cheers
Gidon
 

Philly

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Gidon,
Where do you get hold of Pop Wood-none of our local newsagents do it.
Cheers
Philly :D
 

Noel

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Ask you local newsagent to order it or subscribe direct from the website.

Rgds

Noel
 

gidon

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Philly
I can get it from my local Whsmiths in Tavistock - but decided in the end to subscribe 'cos I like it a lot and sometimes WHsmiths had sold out. They had an excellent offer of 2 years for $20! And I went for it when the exhange rate was very favourable - just over £11 - cost of three issue over here. Absolute bargain!
Cheers
Gidon

[edit - just checked and that offer is still on: https://secure.palmcoastd.com/pcd/document?ikey=0768NIW02]
 

Alf

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Philly":32xh2ibe said:
I sharpened the blade of my #62 last night-this is not a gloat, it just happens to be what I was shapening. Honest :lol:
Must be painful when the end of your nose hits the wall on the other side of the room and so forth, Philly. :wink:

I've just renewed my Pop Wood sub using that very offer; no sign of the June issue yet though. :(

Anyway, the topic. My current set up (and long time readers will know I've been through virtually every permutation at one time or another) is a coarse/fine DMT, a fine, unknown natural oilstone, and for that oh-so-shiny finish, Autosol metal polish on M-cough-D-spit-F-choke-. I know that's been mentioned by someone in at least one of the mags, which is why I bought a tube when I saw it, but if anyone could remind me where I'd be obliged. Apart from the metal polish, the biggest recent revelation has been using neats foot oil on the oil stone. It's what all the old books recommend, and I think they have a point. It carries the junk away very effectively and doesn't clog. Available at any horse-mad emporium 'cos they use it for cleaning the tack. However, don't tell the horse-mad person behind the counter what you want it for; you get a very funny look. DAMH... :roll:

Cheers, Alf
 

Chris Knight

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The neatsfoot oil smells interesting too doesn't it Alf?

Philly, have you used anything other than water to stick your wet and dry to the tile? When I had a go with scary sharp many moons ago, I used 3M spraymount but that was about 1000 times too much work in terms of cleaning it off when changing papers etc. However, I didn't find that my wet and dry stuck too well just with water and suction - might have been the wrong sort of water I suppose - as British Rail would have said.
 

Philly

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Chris,
I use trusty old WD40-spray some on the stone, wack down the paper, spray some on the paper. If you are too heavy handed then the paper can move, but you probably are pushing too hard then.
Works o.k. for me, and as you say, using spraymount and then having to clean it up is a bit of a faff!
cheers,
Philly :D
 

Drew

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waterhead37 wrote:
The neatsfoot oil smells interesting too
When I first joined the Fire Brigade many moons ago we used to treat our leather boots with it. It smells even more interesting once it has been toasted. :lol:

Drew
 
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Anonymous

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I use the 3M (number 77 IIRC) for wet & dry on float glass... Don't clean it off between papers, cos it acts kind of like a post-it note - it'll stay sticky though the range of papers all the way from 80 grit (for tough work) through to 1500 grit. Once through the range of paper, a drop of white spirits on a rag cleans the glue off, and another spray goes straight on if sharpening something else.

I have a feeling #77 is not the same as spraymount - took me a long time to find somewhere that sold it, whereas spraymount is readily available from places like staples.
 

Alf

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Dunno, SDP. I got a 100g tube for a fiver if that helps. Might be cheaper elsewhere; hard to tell with the rather eccentric outfit I bought it from.

Cheers, Alf
 
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Anonymous

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I have used Autosol for years. Used to polish the aluminium on my motorbikes and lately to polish the backs of tools.

Any car accesory place sells it

Cheers

Tony
 

trevtheturner

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I still use it for the ally and chrome on my bike - probably the best metal polish there is. But, after carefully polishing it off, it's surprising how much residue is left on the metal even though you can't see it. Answer? A final polish with a smear of Mr. Sheen (wouldn't use it on furniture - only on the bike) - just look at how much black stuff is removed onto the rag, and the metal positively gleams. :D 8)

Might be worth a try on plane irons if you want to get them really clean. L/Ns are probably worthy if Autosol is part of your sharpening procedure (just trying to justify a woodworking posting :oops: )

Cheers,

Trev.
 
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